Question about setting dies

[Adam Gibbs]

I reloaded a very little bit about 10 years ago, but between moves and such I hadn't really done it outside of a few rounds of 308. Now that I'm a bit better established I set up my bench again with the goal of loading and actually shooting some 375 H&H on a rifle I've owned for quite some time as well.

I set up the dies the way the Lee manual described and sized 10 cases. Just for shits and giggles I dropped the cases in the chamber and closed the bolt and while the bolt closes, it is a bit harder than without a case in the chamber. When I looked at the cases after pulling them out, there appears to be a ring on the shoulder that wasn't there to begin with.

I'd assume I need to screw down the die to "shorten" the case, but how much? Or is that off base? I can't find this problem referenced in my manuals so I'm a bit confused and would rather be safe than sorry. Thanks for any help.

Lee dies
Hornady cases
Rem 700 375 H&H

 

[wapitibob]

I smoke the brass shoulder with a lit candle. Die should just bump the soot.

 

[tdhanses]

Doesn’t sound like you checked case length or trimmed to spec

 

[doverpack12]

I would screw the die down so you have a hard cam over and when the press ram has pushed the brass up into the die look for light between the shell holder and die. There should not be any light showing through that location. If the brass is still tight then you need to shorten the sidewall of the shell holder or stick a shim under the brass to raise it up in the holder. Redding makes a shell holder set that maintains the top elevation where the holder interfaces with the die but progressively steps up the base the brass rests on in 0.002” increments. Set the die to cam over and start with the standard holder and work through each holder until the brass chambers like you want.

The other thing you can do is disassemble your bolt so it’s just the body and that will allow you to feel the brass fit independent from the cocking mechanism.

 

[Billinsd]

Here is a precise way that I do it. I like to bump the shoulders back 0.002 inches on my fire formed cases. I want the case to have a bit of room to wiggle in my hunting rifle. I also bought a pma tool micro adjusting ring to put on my full size resizing die. My reloads won't work in all guns, they are very precise for my rifle. I don't have the die tightened all they way down. I sneak up on it, because I only want a 0.002 bump, no more. Bill.

 

[Cahunter805]

Adam
Can you post a pic of the brass/ring? You may be over sizing and creating a bulge in the shoulder.

 

[doverpack12]

Just reread the OP. Did you put the brass in the chamber then close the bolt? If so then you are forcing the extractor to pop over the case rim as you close the bolt. Try inserting the brass into the bolt face at an angle and push it straight with your finger as you close the bolt. You might still feel just a little resistance from the ejector spring but it will be much less than forcing the extractor over the rim as the bolt closes.

 

[Adam Gibbs]

I was doing as doverpack was describing. Let me see if I can try the soot trick and get a picture. Case length is 2.839 after sizing. I'm showing a trim length of 2.840.

 

[Adam Gibbs]

I wasnt able to really get the case in the bolt face all that well. Here is the sooted case after chambering as well.

I think my next step will be to 100% ensure the shell holder is making contact with the die.

 

[Adam Gibbs]

Shell holder was making contact for sure. I tried feeding some of the cases from the magazine as best as I can and I don't feel the resistance nearly as much. I'm going to proceed with the loading and then try feeding the cartdidges when bullets are seated to really get a feel. I think doverpack12 is right and it was feeling resistance through the bolt.

 

[HonkeyMcGee88]

Generally with brand new brass you're not gonna have an issue with shoulder bump.

If shoulder bump is an issue you will notice it when rotating the bolt closed. It will be pretty obvious. One other thing that helps here is when you are checking this, engage the safety on your rifle.

The easiest way to check the measurement is with a hornady or similar tool that attaches to your calipers, goes over the case neck and hits part of the shoulder. Anywhere on the shoulder is fine as you're going to measure, then adjust and re-measure with the same tool.

Like a couple others have said, after firing it is ideal to bump the shoulder only a couple thousandths. When you start going back further it will work the brass more than necessary and reduce brass life.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[cornfed]

If you're going to reload you have to have a way to measure things. Buy the Hornady headspace and bullet comparators and learn how to use them. It's important. This is rocket science, and if you're over working the brass by bumping the shoulder back to far you can have case head separation. The more times you bump it back too far the better chance you have of exploding your rifle, and you know where your face will be if it does.

Case head separation happens at the rear of the case at what's called the web. Sometimes you can see the ring bulging around the case in that area before it happens, and sometimes you have to fashion a hook out of a paper clip and drag that across the webb from the inside of the case to feel it.