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5MilesBack

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Feb 27, 2012
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About all you can do is not drop your rifle. When my 6.5CM was brand new with a new Leupold Mark 4 scope, my daughter dropped it and it fell so that the side of the scope hit right on a rock........with a ding in the windage knob. The impact moved the dial knob so reset it to zero and when I tested it at the range the scope was still dead on.
 
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Formidilosus

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Oct 22, 2014
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So when I examine what your setup is several things stand out.


1). Ditch the Tally’s, go Sportamatch TO84, do not lap.

2). If you haven’t already- remove the barrel bumps in the stock, and ensure that the barrel is WELL free floated. A dollar bill isn’t near enough clearance.

3). Bed lug and tang.

4). I would use 60’ish In-lbs on action screws.



If you are experiencing “walking” as the barrel heats, there is stress somewhere. How many rounds per group are you firing, and how fast per shot?
 

Formidilosus

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Oct 22, 2014
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Generally 5 shot groups, 1-2 minutes between shots. the fifth shot is generally the farthest out. If barrel isn't allowed to cool significantly the following group really opens up.


If you do what I wrote above, shoot a couple ten round groups. Do not let the rifle cool between shots. Post the groups and we can see if there is something up.
 

NevadaZielmeister

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Dec 29, 2016
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Reno, NV
I wouldn't worry about barrel heat and shift. I doubt you will be shooting 5 or 10 shot groups on an animal. Other than a dinosaur, then you might want to upgrade your rifle a little. And travel back to our time.. so you can come by my place and tell me what it was like hunting some serious animals over some good wine.
 

Formidilosus

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Oct 22, 2014
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Already disassembled the rifle. Are you using a recoil pin on those T084 rings, it wasn't real clear if they come with a pin or if it's integrated into the mount? Never done a bed job before but from what I understand getting the compound to stick on factory stocks can be difficult..... any links on which compound to use/tutorials?


Yep on the recoil pin. The SM rings come with it.

I’ll try to find a simple video explaining bedding the lug and tang. There’s not issues with the factory stock and bedding. The last couple I did I just used 15min JB Weld.
 

fightthenoise

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Feb 17, 2017
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2). If you haven’t already- remove the barrel bumps in the stock, and ensure that the barrel is WELL free floated. A dollar bill isn’t near enough clearance.

Is this addressing a scope losing zero or just general accurizing of Tikkas? Also, if the rifle already shoots well (assume acceptable 10 shot groups), is it risky to remove the barrel bumps? I have 3 tikka's that all shoot well enough to the point that I'm hesitant to mess with them, but I'm the kinda of guy that can't leave well enough alone and wants to "fix" unbroken things. One of them is my wife's so my marriage is on the line.
 

Formidilosus

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Oct 22, 2014
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Is this addressing a scope losing zero or just general accurizing of Tikkas?


Not really precision, but, eliminating slight POI shifts from different rests. As well, if the barrel has contact to the stock and gets dropped, there is a likelihood that the contact shifts location slightly on the barrel, causing POI shift. It’s slight- around .5 MOA/.2mil or so, but it is there.


I remove them as a matter of habit now, but if the rifles are doing what you want, no real reason to modify.
 

308

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Oct 11, 2019
Messages
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4). I would use 60’ish In-lbs on action screws.
Are you applying loctite to these degreased action screws?

Also, when using these guns in the field is water infiltration and the subsequent rust a concern or does the loctite keep the water out adequately?

I assume so far by reading your posts that you aren't the kind of guy to tear a gun down (one used as a field piece at least) and clean/preventative maintainence it a whole lot. I would like to never have to take it apart again once I loctite everything. Is that realistic?
 
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dla

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Jan 3, 2019
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Location
Oregon & Idaho
Use a trekking pole and learn to walk :D

Or go to a lightweight fixed power scope. Less mass, less inertia.

Or leave your rifle in a airline case until you are ready to shoot since folks want to you to accurize for shooting groups.

Oh and definitely lap.
 

308

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Oct 11, 2019
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I’ll try to find a simple video explaining bedding the lug and tang. There’s not issues with the factory stock and bedding. The last couple I did I just used 15min JB Weld.

I found this detailing one guy's way that "works for him" specifically bedding the tikka.

The pictures kinda suck, he links to other tutorials and never touches on bedding the tang.

He does talk about pillar bedding with metal inserts which you do not mention. Is that worth the time / necessary?

The lug bedding is explained, not shown well in pics. The super glue and pour goop on it seems a little hacky without doing the rest of the action

The YouTube video linked at the bottom of the paper is 15 min long and the work isn't done on a tikka, not that the concept isn't the same. Also, not sure if the YouTube guy knows what he's doing.

I wanna avoid the OP's problems by doing this before I set my rifle up as an ounce of prevention kind of thing
 

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Capt. Max

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Aug 31, 2019
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Location
Alaska, and Georgia
Badger ordnance rings and base. I have had to use my gun as a paddle, dropped it, fell on it, tumbled down a mountain, and even lost it for 5 days in a glacier river after flipping a pack kayak. still held zero. Heavy, expensive, but bomb proof.
 
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