Rebarrel Tikka with factory barrel?

Xingyc

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Jun 22, 2019
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I'm considering to rebarrel my Tikka lite 270win with a sporter barrel in 260 Rem. Can I just spin off the 270 and spin on the 260? Do I need to rechamber and thread the barrel?
anyone have experience with this?
 

Rob5589

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Pretty much. The barrel is what is chambered, nothing to do to the action. Check for headspace then go shooting. Probably a good idea to change the bolt stop for the shorter 260 round.
 

AKironhead

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Short answer is yes but like rob said might want to swap to a short action bolt stop. The tikka factory barrels can be a real bugger to remove just fyi. Every factory tikka I've had shot great but was about an avg of 40 fps slower than most aftermarket barrels of the same length so if you're looking for top performance you might want to look at some aftermarket shouldered prefits.
 

Ohearchai

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Several companies make prefit barrels for the Tikka. You can get shouldered prefits, ie like the factory barrel or prefits that use a nut. In either case I suggest the use of go nogo gauges. Also the Tikka barrel can be a pain to remove even with the likes of a rear entry action wrench, it may be necesary to make a relief cut to get the barrel off. Just rebarreled a t3 from 270wsm to 6.5prc, changed the stock and dbm, and the bolt stop to la. Some small things to finish but almost done.
 

khuber84

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Hers the reason why most tikkas are slow, they all have long throats to keep pressure down. I say rock that 260 barrel, keep your long action bolt stop, keep using your 270w magazine and load it out to the lands. Utilize peterson or lapua SRP brass, CCI450 and RL26, 140s loaded warm 20k off lands will usually run 2900 from a 24" barrel. But idk if tikkas ever made a 24" 260 pipe, so it's probably 22.4"
 

bwidrick

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Several companies make prefit barrels for the Tikka. You can get shouldered prefits, ie like the factory barrel or prefits that use a nut. In either case I suggest the use of go nogo gauges. Also the Tikka barrel can be a pain to remove even with the likes of a rear entry action wrench, it may be necesary to make a relief cut to get the barrel off. Just rebarreled a t3 from 270wsm to 6.5prc, changed the stock and dbm, and the bolt stop to la. Some small things to finish but almost done.
I've been thinking of making ghe same change to my Tikka T3 270wsm...to 6.5prc, but am a novice at tinkering with changing anything on a factory gun. For pure functionality, does this change simply require a barrel change? Any changes needed to the bolt head or action?
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Why are folks suggesting the shorter bolt stop? The bolt coming back a little bit further is a zero issue in my mind.

I've been thinking of making ghe same change to my Tikka T3 270wsm...to 6.5prc, but am a novice at tinkering with changing anything on a factory gun. For pure functionality, does this change simply require a barrel change? Any changes needed to the bolt head or action?

Since you have a magnum bolt face in your gun already no change needed, if you didn't that would be a pain as tikka bolts aren't cheap to change. I don't feel like looking up the cartridge lengths of those rounds, the medium action bolt stop your gun has probably works fine but if not getting a long action one and swapping it in is cheap/easy. You'd want to verify the magazine works as well (dia and length, I just don't know the PRC off hand).

Any barrel change you should as mentioned verify with go/no go gauges.
 

bwidrick

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Why are folks suggesting the shorter bolt stop? The bolt coming back a little bit further is a zero issue in my mind.



Since you have a magnum bolt face in your gun already no change needed, if you didn't that would be a pain as tikka bolts aren't cheap to change. I don't feel like looking up the cartridge lengths of those rounds, the medium action bolt stop your gun has probably works fine but if not getting a long action one and swapping it in is cheap/easy. You'd want to verify the magazine works as well (dia and length, I just don't know the PRC off hand).

Any barrel change you should as mentioned verify with go/no go gauges.
Awesome, thanks for the info. I'll check out the cartridge specs and look into the bolt stop and mag. Certainly verify headspace with go/no go. Thanks again!
 

khuber84

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Why are folks suggesting the shorter bolt stop? The bolt coming back a little bit further is a zero issue in my mind.



Since you have a magnum bolt face in your gun already no change needed, if you didn't that would be a pain as tikka bolts aren't cheap to change. I don't feel like looking up the cartridge lengths of those rounds, the medium action bolt stop your gun has probably works fine but if not getting a long action one and swapping it in is cheap/easy. You'd want to verify the magazine works as well (dia and length, I just don't know the PRC off hand).

Any barrel change you should as mentioned verify with go/no go gauges.
Factory prc ammo will NOT fit in his wsm magazine. It will need to have the bolt stop modded and to run a long action magnum magazine at minimum. Magazines from Mtn Tactical or Hells Canyon Armory are better options yet.
 

shax2lex

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Have a gunsmith remove the barrel like others have said. Joel on the Precision Rifle Network did a video on this on YouTube.
You may want to check the max oal in the Tikka shot mag magazine. It maybe better to run as LA to get those 156gr Berger’s really going. 😉
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Factory prc ammo will NOT fit in his wsm magazine. It will need to have the bolt stop modded and to run a long action magnum magazine at minimum. Magazines from Mtn Tactical or Hells Canyon Armory are better options yet.

Having both myself I strongly prefer the Hells Canyon one (long action 300wsm).
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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My issue with the MTI one is its hard to insert with 3 rounds in it and the rear hangs down. The HCA addressed both those (in addition to the WSM case shoulders stops). Maybe the new MTI ones do too but HCA will have my business on this matter for any future needs. HCA's initial spring design on the first ones that went out needed improvement he followed up sending out replacement parts for free w/o asking for them to address it and now it works solidly. MTI gen 1 are what they are (IE I've never gotten any communication or parts to improve how the gen 1 fits)... Maybe there was chatter on addressing the MTI gen 1 after I stopped paying attention? Once HCA sent me a fully functional mag I stopped worrying about it, the MTI is a backup mag in my range bag and will never be my first choice as it currently sits, the HCA mag is superior to the MTI gen 1.
 
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