Requesting help sharpening knives

[Marbles]

I find on harder steel, the importance of getting the shoulders fully ground is increased.

I will work on the shoulders on a course stone until I have started to get an edge. I will then polish the shoulders. Following that I will sharpen the edge at a more obtuse angle on the finer stone (creating a micro bevel). Field touch up will be at this same angle and is quite easy for 'a while' but eventually the shoulders will need to be reground again and the cycle started over.

Without the micro bevel on the edge, I find super steels to be a real PITA to sharpen and I simple cannot get a good edge using a flat grind (a reflection of my lack of skill).

I have been using a Shapton Glass 250 grit and the Shapton Pro Orange and Wine stones for bench sharpening. I have had good luck with a Spider Co ceramic pocket sharpener in the fielded. The problem with ceramic stones is once they dull there is no real replacement of material on the stones surface and they stop working as well.

 

[Where's Bruce?]

These are the Zero Tolerance tiger stripe 0301 & 0350TS knives.

 

[feanor]

You look pretty distinguished in that suit.

 

[JjamesIII]

Are you sharpening the replaceable blades after they dull or out of the package? Also, they’re so thin, how do you get them clamped in?

Broadhead blades- get a kme sharpener. Greatest thing for replaceable blades. You have to watch for expandibles blades, they really aren’t meant for repeatable use. Even if you’re able to bring back the edge, I think the integrity of the blade may be compromised and can run the risk of breaking on the next impact, I’ve stopped sharpening those and just buy new ones.

 

[EdP]

I had always sharpened using Arkansas stones and got my knives shaving sharp. That is until I got a knife of S30V steel. I spent over 12 hours on the stone and could not get it sharp. Careful inspection showed the edge was not rolling over so I knew it wasn't a bad knife. A guy on another forum suggested a diamond stone so I researched them and bought a Sharpal. That did the trick. It is a slab of stainless with diamond grit electroplated on. 325 grit on one side and 1200 on the other. The 325 has never been used. Makes me think flatlanderhuffandpuff is right on target about some of the new knife steels.

I also use a leather on wood strop to finish the sharpening process, and applied 0.5 micron diamond grit (suspended in water) to the leather. I made my own strop but you can buy them too. Most times all a knife needs is a dozen strokes on the strop to bring an edge back if you keep up with it. (note; with a strop the knife is worked opposite from on a stone, watch a video)

 

[jlpoe]

I have had the same issues/frustrations. Wound up buying one of the worksharp powered sharpeners about a year ago and it’s been well worth it. I think sharpening with a stone or rod is kinda a skill, one I’d like to have but don’t and amongst other time demands just isn’t a priorityh to me. With the powered sharpener iv been able to get high quality hard steel back to being as sharp as when I bought it in maybe 10 minutes.

same experience, love my Worksharp

 

[Ozzy841]

In my experience high end knives with steels such as S30v, S90v, M390 etc. require either some skill with decent bench stones or some more expensive sharpeners to get good results. Spyderco sharpmaker is a great tool for touch ups but is a pain if re-profiling or repairs are needed. The Edge Pro or wicked edge while expensive give excellent results. Same with the tormek. If you have a little time, there is tons of good info on youtube to help someone learn the fundamentals freehand. It can be a bit of a black hole but I've found the desire for a sharp pocket knife turned into a whole new hobby of its own.

 

[weeksauce09]

I cringe every time I see someone suggest one of those belt sanders or electric grinders for high-end knives.

I invested in a quality sharpening system that locks the blade and the stones at a specific angle throughout the sharpening process. I can get any knife shaving sharp and polished in about 20 minutes the first time. 5 minutes if it's a knife I've already done before. With these types of sharpeners you aren't dramatically decreasing the lifespan of the knife as you are with any electric sharpener on the market....they grind away a ridiculous amount of steel.

was it a KME?

 

[bsnedeker]

was it a KME?

No, TSPROF. It's like the KME on steroids.

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Scoot]

Kilbourne, am I seeing it right-- that thing is $1100? I think I'll stick with my diamond hone and sharpening by hand...

 

[Flogger]

I have a TSPROF KO3 but I freehand sharpen most of the time.

There are some incredible steels on the market these days that can hold an edge for a long time. K390, m390, Rex 45, maxamet, s90v, s110v, just to name a few..

The best freehand sharpeners in the world will get less than desirable results trying to sharpen a knife made of a “super steel” with the incorrect stones.

My advice is to invest in Venev Diamond stones. The ones that are made for clamp/guided sharpeners are 6” long and are perfect for free hand sharpening. These stones are the best I’ve used and I’ve used a bunch over the years.

Then get a few 6” strops and some Diamond emulsion. Jende and Gunny juice are two fantastic brands of Diamond emulsions.

If you touch up your knife frequently with stones and/or strops it will make life easier.

 

[Shraggs]

Guessing they’re so dull that device simply cannot remove enough material. If you sharpen by any method, and it’s not sharp then your not removing enough to have both Angles touch and develop a burr. If there ceramic and not brown they might be finer grits and you need course on super steels.

I’m a covex edge guy so leather. But when any knife gets that dull agree with above go to water stones. Maintain your angle. But still finish off with your device there to refine angle and edge.

If that’s not your thing, send them in…

I’d offer, but not sure you’ll be happy with convex! Renders those things for sharpening v edges somewhat limited.

 

[arock]

I freehand everything on diamond stones. Expensive knives, cheap knives, big knives, little knives.

I build furniture as well so lots of practice on chisels, planes and hand saws.

The first knife I tried to sharpen totally biffed. Had to go back to the course stone and start all over. It was flexible so had to figure out how to keep the edge on the stone with out breaking the edge on the corners. First chisels lol. Talk about a disaster.

Its a technical skill which takes time, practice and some pieces of metal you don't have an emotional attachment to to get good at it.

 

[renagde]

Spend the money, buy a Wicked Edge sharpener. Or send them to me.

 

[49ereric]

I went to Boride Abrasive standard polishing kits in CS-HD stones. No guide just your eye. my Buck 118 D2 steel knives are still hard to get razor edge. The S30V steel a bit easier.
for me the older knives with 440C steel still are a good choice for easy sharpening and Decent edge retention.

320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 stones

 

[kybuck1]

That hard steel is tough. I got a wicked edge hunter kit that does pretty well, but really needs some of the finishing stones to get a good edge IMO

 

[scattergun]

For a quick and dirty touch up in the field, i carry a pull thru sharpener. A medium or course stone is just as easy but the pull thru is fool proof and you don’t even have to put much pressure on it.

Unfortunately, they also wreck your edge.

 

[Rich M]

Unfortunately, they also wreck your edge.

i disagree. Have yet to tuin an edge by taking a few swipes on a pull thru any more than using a stone or steel or strop.

 

[renagde]

i disagree. Have yet to tuin an edge by taking a few swipes on a pull thru any more than using a stone or steel or strop.

Pull through sharpeners take off a lot more material than necessary and they aren’t capable of making knives razor sharp. A stone or strop takes off way less material and it’s capable of creating a hair splitting edge.

 

[MOUNTAIN-MAN]

In my opinion it depends on the knife/use for what I will use to sharpen. The belt sanders/electric chef grinders all remove too much metal for an expensive knife! You will get half the life out of a blade (it just removes way to much metal) the trick is to remove very little metal, unless of course you have a chip out of the blade from hard use. You only want to remove the burr when the metal edge has folded over which is typically why a knife has become dull. This requires very little effort on most knives depending on the steel used. I would suggest if your hunting and not good at sharpening then use replaceable blades. The easiest/fastest way to remove a burr on all knives in my option is a wheel (A bench grinder utilizing "razor sharp" or something similar with a soft wheel). The best hand edge sharpener I've ever used is the "Edge Pro" a little spendy, but amazing. This is what I used when I was in business and once you learn the technic you can do a pocket knife in 5 minutes or less. Ever knife and every edge is different so using a sharpie to mark the edge so you can maintain that edge is key especially for someone starting out. The pocket sharpeners all have a place when in the backcountry and touch up is needed....Or you could just use replaceable blades in the backcountry and sharpen your main knifes before you depart.

Bruce I would add if you need specific help with the knife or sharpener you personally have shoot me a message and we can chat so you can have the ability to sharpen your knife. A dull knife is a paper weight.