Rifle Issue/Need Help Trouble-Shooting

MattB

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Got some new Nosler brass so went to the range today to shoot a few groups and check velocity/POI of my go-to load developed in the new brass versus the Hornady I developed the load with. Shot 5 shots loaded in my old brass, which was dead center on the backer for windage. The problem is the group was ~19" below the point of aim versus where it was very consistently during my last range session. Pulled the bolt, set the rifle on the bag with the cross hairs centered on the target, looked down the bore and sure enough it was pointed at the very bottom of the target backer where the shots impacted. Re-zero'd the scope and shot 3 5-shot groups. All three groups were 2.5"+ which is considerably worse than the load was previously shooting.

Since the last range session I did shoot ~40 rounds on steel out to 600 yards which required a bit of dialing in and out. The rifle seemed to shoot fine during that outing.

The ring/base screws are tight, no adjustments/hard impacts since the last time I shot paper. Used the same bipod/rear bag as always when shooting groups. I am guessing this is a scope problem, but wanted input from more experienced guys as to whether there is something obvious.
 

11boo

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I am no expert, but that screams a scope issue. You could confirm that by either shooting “the box”, or if you have a boresighter simulate that.

scope brand?
 
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M

MattB

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Define “dialing in and out” at 600 yards
Dialing elevation from 100 to 300, 400, 600, 400, 600, 350, and back to 100 if memory serves.

Scope is a SWFA 3x9, Tikka T3, Sportsmatch T048 rings (aka Rokslide special).
 
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11boo

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That’s decent glass, but I’ve had decent glass fail before. You know what shooting the box is right?
 

11boo

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I was able to help a friend figure out his issue with one of the laser bore sights,
right in his backyard. His gun was typically an excellent shooter, and started throwing rounds everywhere.
We clamped the gun down, lased a spot on the fence and moved the crosshairs there. Then went right/down/left and back up. 3” off at 40 yards, leopold fixed it.
 

hereinaz

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If the scope base and rings are good, it is the scope. Some turrets just aren't repeatable.
 

11boo

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If the scope base and rings are good, it is the scope. Some turrets just aren't repeatable.
This is true, but his is way offf. I have a really nice Leo that comes back 1-2” off at 100. But it holds zero, so I forgive it. Curious that I can dial elevation and come back within 1/2”, but mess with windage and elevation and I get a greater error.
 

sndmn11

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What was used for the zero stop?

If I remember correctly those turrets are 5 mil, and 5mil at 100 yards is real close to how far off you were from expected zero. Is it possible you went one revolution too far when turning the turret to a 100 yd zero?
 
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MattB

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What was used for the zero stop?

If I remember correctly those turrets are 5 mil, and 5mil at 100 yards is real close to how far off you were from expected zero. Is it possible you went one revolution too far when turning the turret to a 100 yd zero?
The zero stop is a washer kit. When installed the elevation turret would only go ~1/5 turn past zero before it hit resistance/stopped.

When I re-zeroed, I believe it was 1.5+ rotations (didn't write it down) so I had to remove/re-index the elevation turret. Scope actually shows the "2" on the riser the elevation turret mounts to which is an indication of the number of revolutions up on the turret.
 

Lawnboi

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Changing reloading practices can result in some goofy stuff.

-Use a know load, that or go buy some factory match ammo. This eliminates a huge variable.
-Grab it by the scope and give it a hard shake. Nothing should move. I’d also ask if you used the recoil pin in hour rings.
-Pull the action and reinstall at whatever you torque it to. Same could be done for the scope.
-zero the rifle. Turn the dials a ton, and see if it remains.
-preform a tall target test if it holds zero.
-pull the scope and try a known good one.

I’d also pull the washer kit.
 
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