Round Up Ready or Liberty Link Corn/Soybeans?

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Calling all food plotters... Looking to plant either round up ready or liberty link corn/beans next season. Does anybody have experience with these, and is one better than the other in terms of number of applications, cost, etc..?

 

[Whisky]

Plant RR XTEND seed. You can spray either Glyphosate or dicamba on it. Do NOT plant Liberty Link seeds. You'll never be able to find the gluphosinate (Liberty) chems this year. There is a major shortage going on.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Plant RR XTEND seed. You can spray either Glyphosate or dicamba on it. Do NOT plant Liberty Link seeds. You'll never be able to find the gluphosinate (Liberty) chems this year. There is a major shortage going on.

Whoa, THANK YOU for the recommendation. The areas I am planting have some thistle pressure, and I was fretting over how I would possibly control them. If I can spray those beans with Glypho and Dicamba that is the IDEAL solution. Thank you again!!!

I have a full gallon of Dicamba and Glypho at home, so I should be in good shape this fall for chem.

 

[cornfedkiller]

I have a full gallon of Dicamba and Glypho at home, so I should be in good shape this fall for chem.

Since you already have that, then I would stick with what Whisky suggested.

I prefer RR/Enlist soybeans, which can be sprayed with 2,4D.. I spray a mixture of Gly/2,4D when the beans are just about too big to fit under the 4wheeler.

And when I plant corn, I hit it with that same mix of chemical when its about 8" tall. That has given most of the weeds time to emerge but kills them off long enough for the rows to pretty well close up.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Since you already have that, then I would stick with what Whisky suggested.

I prefer RR/Enlist soybeans, which can be sprayed with 2,4D.. I spray a mixture of Gly/2,4D when the beans are just about too big to fit under the 4wheeler.

And when I plant corn, I hit it with that same mix of chemical when its about 8" tall. That has given most of the weeds time to emerge but kills them off long enough for the rows to pretty well close up.

Great advice and thank you! I have both canadians and musk thistles pretty tough in one of my plots, and the dicamba is more effective on them especially if I can't get out there on time and they get a little big.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Do you guys use a preemerge on your bean plots? I'm hoping to pick up a small disc this year instead of using my rototiller. It works good, but even at 6' wide, it takes forever.

I was thinking disc twice or until mostly bare dirt, broadcast the beans, and roll with my cultipacker to get good seed/soil contact. Then spray when the weeds are 4-6" or so. However, wasn't sure if there was a good preemergence herbicide you guys use on bean plots

 

[CivilTrapShot]

Do you guys use a preemerge on your bean plots? I'm hoping to pick up a small disc this year instead of using my rototiller. It works good, but even at 6' wide, it takes forever.

I was thinking disc twice or until mostly bare dirt, broadcast the beans, and roll with my cultipacker to get good seed/soil contact. Then spray when the weeds are 4-6" or so. However, wasn't sure if there was a good preemergence herbicide you guys use on bean plots

Probably don't need a pre emerge if you're burning weeds down with roundup/2,4D post emerge on beans right before they start shading the row. I'm no farmer so anyone feel free to correct that if I'm wrong.

With that being said, when planting sunflower plots for doves, we've used pendimethalin to control foxtail which comes on bad later in the season. Sunflowers don't seem to throw the heavily shaded canopy the beans will. Looks like pendimethalin is rated for soybean use. Doesn't handle ragweed though.

Fertilizer and a couple passes with a disc, a lap or two with a drag section to knock it down, seed it, drag the seed in (or lightly disc/till depending on the required seed depth) is how we get them done. We've come to find the piss poor soil we've got to work with will seal up too tight after a heavy spring rain not allowing good germination if we get the soil too fine with a tiller. That's all soil dependent though.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Probably don't need a pre emerge if you're burning weeds down with roundup/2,4D post emerge on beans right before they start shading the row. I'm no farmer so anyone feel free to correct that if I'm wrong.

With that being said, when planting sunflower plots for doves, we've used pendimethalin to control foxtail which comes on bad later in the season. Sunflowers don't seem to throw the heavily shaded canopy the beans will. Looks like pendimethalin is rated for soybean use. Doesn't handle ragweed though.

Fertilizer and a couple passes with a disc, a lap or two with a drag section to knock it down, seed it, drag the seed in (or lightly disc/till depending on the required seed depth) is how we get them done. We've come to find the piss poor soil we've got to work with will seal up too tight after a heavy spring rain not allowing good germination if we get the soil too fine with a tiller. That's all soil dependent though.

Good information and thank you. The bottom ground plot is decently fertile on our farm, but the 2 plots on the ridge top are a little tough. They will grow good rye plots, but I've struck out twice with brassicas and turnips. A soil test would likely tell me the issue, but I've been a day late and a dollar short with that the last few years. Based on the neighbors plots and what he's added, I'm guessing a good shot of lime would help immensely, but that probably should've been put on in the fall to make a difference this year.

I read an article from a guy that says he doesn't worry about soil tests anymore. He bases his fertilizer application on what the selected bean variety needs for the desired output. For example, if he wants 50 bushel beans he puts on that much fertilizer. He isn't looking to build the soil, instead, he just focuses on putting down what the particular seed needs to meet his goals.

 

[bmicek]

Calling all food plotters... Looking to plant either round up ready or liberty link corn/beans next season. Does anybody have experience with these, and is one better than the other in terms of number of applications, cost, etc..?

You should consider XtendFlex beans. They’re Liberty, Dicamba, and Roundup tolerant. I prefer Liberty over Dicamba for killing weeds. It just seems to work more consistently and you also get some activity on grasses with Liberty. But it also allows you to use dicamba as well if you aren’t able to find Liberty.

 

[Whisky]

Do you guys use a preemerge on your bean plots? I'm hoping to pick up a small disc this year instead of using my rototiller. It works good, but even at 6' wide, it takes forever.

I was thinking disc twice or until mostly bare dirt, broadcast the beans, and roll with my cultipacker to get good seed/soil contact. Then spray when the weeds are 4-6" or so. However, wasn't sure if there was a good preemergence herbicide you guys use on bean plots

That really depends on your weed infestation, and their resistance to certain herbicides. When I first started with my plots all I needed was glyphosate. Now, I have a bad infestation of RR resistant kochia. It's a bitch...A few years ago I started putting a metolachlor (Dual, Brawl) in with my early post glyphosate applications. Metolachlor can be sprayed as a pre, or early post. RR would kill emerged weeds, Dual would provide some residual weed control as they emerged later on. Last year I added Xtend beans and now add dicamba to the mix. It helped. The thing I like about that combo is I can also spray it on my corn.

This year however, I'm contemplating using a true soybean pre, something with more kick and longer residual. And I also need to figure out another mode of action for my corn. I'm really beginning to hate kochia!!

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

That really depends on your weed infestation, and their resistance to certain herbicides. When I first started with my plots all I needed was glyphosate. Now, I have a bad infestation of RR resistant kochia. It's a bitch...A few years ago I started putting a metolachlor (Dual, Brawl) in with my early post glyphosate applications. Metolachlor can be sprayed as a pre, or early post. RR would kill emerged weeds, Dual would provide some residual weed control as they emerged later on. Last year I added Xtend beans and now add dicamba to the mix. It helped. The thing I like about that combo is I can also spray it on my corn.

This year however, I'm contemplating using a true soybean pre, something with more kick and longer residual. And I also need to figure out another mode of action for my corn. I'm really beginning to hate kochia!!

Thank you for the information. We used to put down a ton of yellow [Prowl (corn)- pendamethalin and Treflan (corn or beans)- trifluralin] as preemerge back in the 90s when I worked for the coop. Nasty, smelly, $hit, but it worked good back in the day. Best to spray and then incorporate with drag or light disc.
https://www.gardenguides.com/121987-list-yellow-herbicides.html

On your corn, if you don't plant too narrow, you could always go old school and cultivate between the rows for mechanical control of weeds.

 

[ChuckC]

As someone mentioned, metolachlor works good as a pre-emerge. Here in the south we have a huge problem with pig weeds in soybean. You have to use a pre-emerge and we have some good ones. But, most require a restricted use herbicide license. Best to use as many classes of herbicides as possible, and both pre’s and post emerge.

 

[Stevendearden]

It depends what your weed infestation looks like. If you have resistance then certainly plan on using LL beans.