Savage gurus help with action/bolt issue.

Bushfire

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So I have a 110 ultralite and I don't mind the action. But when working the bolt back, the rear of the bolt face lug will catch the action not allowing it to go all the way back. In turn it does not feed another round into the chamber. The bolt guide lug does not line up with the bolt face lug making the lip that catches the action. The bolt guide lug never catches the action...
Can I take it all apart and cut a bevel on the lug with a sharpening stone maybe? It wouldn't take much but I don't know.

Thanks for your help
20210527_194226.jpg20210527_194310.jpg apart and cut a bevel on the lug with a sharpening stone maybe? It wouldn't take much but I don't know.

Thanks for your help.
 

bpctcb

WKR
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You might go over to accurateshooter.com and post this in the gunsmithing section. Lots of good gunsmiths post over there.

BP


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The easiest fix is a 2 step process. Step 1 sell it. Step 2 buy a Tikka Super Lite. Problem solved
 
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Surprisingly, not that many gunsmiths know much about Savages I've found.

Savageshooters.com is a great source. If they don't know the answer there, then nobody does.

If you can remove that bolt, then flip the baffle before you do anything else.
 
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If for some reason flipping the baffle doesn't work, replacing the bolt heads on Savage rifles is a 10 min. job and not that hard to do at all. Since you now own a Savage, you might as well learn to work on it since they are one of the few rifles that the owner can do a lot of their own work as opposed to having to run to a smith all the time.

Think of Savage rifles as the pre-computer pickup trucks, back before we had to take them to a guy with a code scanner to figure out the issue. :D
 
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I’d contact Savage and send them those pictures. They will fix it for you. I’d ask them to send you a shipping label and expedite it. You shouldn’t have to deal with it or try to fix it yourself.
 
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Bushfire

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Just got off the phone. It's a 4 week wait not counting shipping... I asked for a quicker return and they said no can do...
 
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I just checked my Ultralight (6.5 PRC) which is 100% functional. Your first photo matches up with mine so your bolt is inserted and aligned properly. At least on mine, rotating the baffle won't work as you'd be unable to insert the bolt back into the rifle.

I removed my bolt and ensured things were perfectly aligned. Inserted it and no issues. I then removed the bolt and slightly skewer the alignment (to mimic your second photo). No issues.

Is your magazine completely inserted? Have you tried another magazine? Asking since those two items fixed feeding issues (as reported on another site).
 
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Bushfire

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I just checked my Ultralight (6.5 PRC) which is 100% functional. Your first photo matches up with mine so your bolt is inserted and aligned properly. At least on mine, rotating the baffle won't work as you'd be unable to insert the bolt back into the rifle.

I removed my bolt and ensured things were perfectly aligned. Inserted it and no issues. I then removed the bolt and slightly skewer the alignment (to mimic your second photo). No issues.

Is your magazine completely inserted? Have you tried another magazine? Asking since those two items fixed feeding issues (as reported on another site).
Thanks for checking. It doesit weather the mag is in or not, loaded or unloaded. Doesn't matter.
 

WCB

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The easiest fix is a 2 step process. Step 1 sell it. Step 2 buy a Tikka Super Lite. Problem solved
yeah because Tikkas don't ever have problems hahaha

Weird...I checked 4 of my savages and none of them even match your first picture. On mine the locking lug and guide lug match up perfectly and all the tolerances of the parts of the action they go through are extremely tight and in no way would allow that misalignment.
 
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I feel like we're missing something obvious here. If the bolt removes easily, then I'm not sure why it won't allow the bolt to be pulled far enough back to pick up a round. That's very curious. Can you tell for sure where the contact is being made that prevents this?

Also, although many folks will scoff at this idea, for the price of shipping alone (or less) you might be able to fix the problem yourself.

 
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I feel like we're missing something obvious here. If the bolt removes easily, then I'm not sure why it won't allow the bolt to be pulled far enough back to pick up a round. That's very curious. Can you tell for sure where the contact is being made that prevents this?

Also, although many folks will scoff at this idea, for the price of shipping alone (or less) you might be able to fix the problem yourself.

Scrap that idea. I just realized you'd need to confirm headspace with the new bolt head, so you'd have to buy or borrow a headspace gauge which is kinda impractical unless you ever intend to rebarrel that gun yourself. But I doubt you do since it has the PR carbon barrel.

SO, I went and looked at my long action LW Storm, which is the same action they use for the Ultralight. When I lift the bolt handle firmly as I pull it back, it does rotate the bolt head counter-clockwise enough to make contact with the receiver, at the same position as yours stops. Mine pulls through, but I can see how a bolt head/receiver that's not mated up correctly might stop there.

Try pulling back the bolt while gently pushing down on the bolt handle and see if it clears. This should rotate the bolt head clockwise and get rid of that raised edge between the baffle and bolt head. If that works, then I say pull the bolt head and file an angle on that back edge, reassemble and use it.
 
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Here are pictures from my LW Storm bolt. It's hard to see, but if I lift the bolt handle up (rotating the bolt head counter-clockwise) then you can see that edge stands up a little proud of the baffle. When I push down lightly on the bolt handle, it aligns with the baffle.

You might have to put an angle on that edge, and also on the one 180-degrees from it on the other side of the bolt head. That's the one you can't see and it could be causing the issue as well.
IMG_0722[1].JPGIMG_0723[1].JPGIMG_0724[1].JPG
 
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You can actually do this without even disassembling the bolt if you want. Just pull the bolt, rotate the baffle 90 degrees, hit those edges with a file or dremel, rotate the baffle back and reinsert the bolt.

Another option, if you're not comfortable working on the bolt head, is to hit the edges on the receiver. Then there is no way you would be affecting the headspace or lug-receiver contact.

If it were me, I'd just rotate that baffle, hit it with a dremel (there's a good chance that bolt head is too hard to do much with a file anyway) and reassemble and see what happens.
 
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