Savage question

[ramsdude47]

After scouring the internet, and attempting to contact Savage, I can’t find out what my options are for a model 11 LWH stock.

It looks like the 110 XP models (packaged with cheap scope) run the cheapest and are fairly light to boot. However I don’t want to buy something that isn’t going to fit in my nice light/walnut stock.

I’m also pretty sure a model 16 would work, but I don’t really like the stainless/walnut look. My understanding is model 10s are heavier barrels so I’m avoiding those.

 

[JFK]

Are you trying to buy an action for a stock you already have?

 

[ElPollo]

Savage has made a bunch of minor tweaks to their action and barrel nut set up over the years, and that has kept the aftermarket stock crowd from supporting them. Expect some fitting and tinkering.

 

[MidwestElkHutner]

I am a big fan of savage actions and believe that they are underrated and underutilized. I have built several semi custom rifles using savage actions. But as previously mentioned, aftermarket support as far as stocks go leaves a little to be desired. I have built 5 rifles off of savage actions (6.5 creed (2), 6mm GT, 280 AI, and .308). Every single one of them required some sort of inletting work. Depending on the barrel contour and bottom metal choice, you may have to do some inletting for the bottom metal and barrel channel. It's relatively simple that can be accomplished with sand paper or a dremel. There are a few things to pay attention to, and model number really isn't one of them. The model number typically indicates long or short action and doesn't relate specifically to barrel contour. The three main things are top or bottom bolt release, action length, and the action bolt spacing. As long as the action bolt spacing, action length (short or long), and bolt release location is the same, some minor tweaking should make it work.

 

[1badDart]

I think the only stock from the factory on the LWH was the walnut.

 

[ramsdude47]

@MidwestElkHutner I was wondering if you might be able to steer me in the right direction.

I finally got around to trying to swap stocks and am running into a few issues. The action screw spacing is correct (4.4), both stocks are short actions, and both stocks are for bottom bolt release. I'm not sure if I need to get a different trigger guard or some kind of spacer, as the wood stock opening is deeper than the plastic. When I try to tighten the screws using the trigger guard I have, it functions as it should but well before the rear action screw is tight. If I continue to tighten it I'm unable to cycle the bolt. It takes quite a bit of muscle to even open it. Additionally the bolt release gets stuck open (can be closed but requires force). Lastly, the mag well is a fair amount larger, but I think that has a simple/cheap solution: https://www.eabco.net/Savage-Short-A...l_p_14780.html

 

[MidwestElkHutner]

@MidwestElkHutner I was wondering if you might be able to steer me in the right direction.

I finally got around to trying to swap stocks and am running into a few issues. The action screw spacing is correct (4.4), both stocks are short actions, and both stocks are for bottom bolt release. I'm not sure if I need to get a different trigger guard or some kind of spacer, as the wood stock opening is deeper than the plastic. When I try to tighten the screws using the trigger guard I have, it functions as it should but well before the rear action screw is tight. If I continue to tighten it I'm unable to cycle the bolt. It takes quite a bit of muscle to even open it. Additionally the bolt release gets stuck open (can be closed but requires force). Lastly, the mag well is a fair amount larger, but I think that has a simple/cheap solution: https://www.eabco.net/Savage-Short-A...l_p_14780.html

Oh the fun of savages!!!

I am guessing that when you fully tighten down the action screws that the front action screw is slightly protruding into the receiver and that is what is stopping the bolt from being able to cycle. I bet as you progressively get the action screws tighter, the bolt gets harder and harder to cycle until it won't close at all. This is a common issue with changing stocks. Assemble the rifle and torque the screws to specs. Then feel and look inside the receiver and get an idea of how far the action screws are coming into the receiver. Then you need to trim the screws. That can be done with a file, grinder, or dremel. But be careful and only take a small amount off at a time. Then re-torque and check.

The trigger guard and bottom bolt release can be finicky. I am guessing that the bottom bolt release lever is not sitting in the correct position when you install the trigger guard. Make sure the lever of the bolt release is properly positioned in the trigger guard.

If the mag well is to large for the opening, some minor fitting with a block and sand paper should do the trick. If the mag well opening in the stock is too large, you can always bed the bottom metal. Easy to do. Or replace with the part that you linked