School me on elevated rests

[bushpilot]

So I am about ready to give up on elevated rests. A couple of days ago I picked up my first ilf bow with hopes of setting it up with and elevated rest. Got it even tillered and brace height set, slapped on a bear weather rest and got to tuning.

And for some reason I could not get rid of nock high bareshafts and fletched shaft. Nock height went from 0-1”.Tiller went from 3/8 positive to 3/8 negative. With the adjustability of an ilf I thought I really could make it work. I even tried out the wengerd fish rest and same results. I have had similar results with other non ilf bows in the past.

So I pulled of the rest and stuck some velcro on the shelf, reset nock height, even tiller and immediately got perfect bareshafts out to 30 yards.

Any thoughts on what I’m doing wrong. Thought it would be nice to have a bow set up for vanes, but maybe I shouldn’t fight it and stick to the devil I know.

 

[John Havard]

What riser are you using? How far past center is it cut? If it's cut appropriately far enough past center you can use any elevated rest you want. I hunt with one of our 19" UltraLight risers with elevated rest, sight, and I shoot with a D-loop and release (arthritis is my excuse but better arrow flight is the result).

 

[bushpilot]

Its a WIN & WIN Black Wolf, the riser is well past center, I want to say 1/8". It has a plunger hole and is built so it can accommodate a rest and plunger, so I have the shelf built out to accommodate shooting a .340 spine arrow. They say elevated rests are extremely easy to tune, but I switched back to the elevated rest this morning and still couldn't eliminate and extreme tail high kick.

Now if I string walk to a 25 yard point on, I can get a alright tune. Which is roughly where my fingers would be shooting off the shelf.

 

[John Havard]

For full use of an elevated rest ia riser should be cot .625” or so past center. I have one of those W/W risers I think. I will take a look.

 

[John Havard]

One of my favorites is the AAE Cavalier Free Flight Micro rest. It’s great for fingers as well as using a release

 

[oldgoat]

Just get some Trad Vanes and call it a day and go shoot

 

[sneaky]

I shoot a NAP Centerest on my TradTech Titan III riser. It doesn't matter what limbs, recurve or longbow, what weight, it just tunes really easy. My 3D setup though is a Spigarelli rest with a plunger. It feels like cheating at times to be able to tune with just a couple of clicks on that plunger. I haven't shot a bow with a weatherest in a very long time. I remember that plastic being stiff compared to the flexible arm on the centerest.

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[Justin.Medcalf]

How does your arrow point sit in relation to the string? Center shot, slightly left, or slightly right? I have had issues with my elevated rest and bareshafts if my limb alignment wasn't perfect. Also if I start canting too much my bareshaft tune goes away. If you are canting try shooting upright and see if that makes a difference. I have also cut off the little centershot tab thing on my weather rest to get more centershot with good results.

 

[PHo]

Have you tried any other type of rest? With the Black Wolf having a plunger hole there are certainly a lot of better rests you can use than the weather rest. Aae cavalier, Aae free flyte, Aae Champion, Spigarelli ZT, just to name a few. The weather rest is great for non-ILF risers but with an ILF riser I would suggest trying a rest with a wire arm.

 

[bushpilot]

The black wolf comes with a hard plastic plate that flies to the riser to make it centershot when shooting off the shelf. I have tried drilling a hole in that and using a fishing line rest. Same results. I tried trad vanes last year with not the greatest results but maybe I will revisit it.

I purchased this bow with the intention of using it for hunting mountain goats and sheep here in BC. So I wanted something that isn’t going to tear off going through the alders and can shuck some crummy weather that accompanies these hunts. So springy rests just seem like a weak point that can let me down when I’m a llllooooonnnnnggggg way from the truck.

 

[sneaky]

I carry an extra Centerest in my pack. Takes like a minute to swap one out. I've had the same one on my setup for over 7 years and haven't had any issues and I've dragged that thing everywhere, had it stuffed in my pack, in suitcases, soft cases etc. I'd be way more concerned with pulling all my arrows out of my quiver than my rest getting screwed up going through that brush.

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[FLS]

I shoot off a centerest on a Morrison Phoenix and Hoyt Excel riders. I used a stick on rest on a Jefferey takedown fprior to that An elevated rest is much easier to tune IMO, especially if you shoot 3 under.

 

[Superkodiak38]

Are you shooting split or three under ? If you are shooting split , glove or tab ? If you are shooting a tab does it have a divider ? If you are shooting split try and pick up as much of the string weight as you can with your middle finger. Too much pressure on the top of the shaft with your index finger can cause some bounce off the rest. If you are shooting 3 under it's a nock height or tiller issue. If you shoot split go to even tiller and check your left right with a beiter limb alignment tool regardless of how you address the string. I shoot a weather rest off a Titan III with no issues unless I screw up.

 

[bushpilot]

I shoot 3 under. Spent the better part of yesterday afternoon experimenting. Went to 3/8 positive tiller then slowly back to even. Still getting a a nock high. Limb alignment looks to be good. I even changed to a different pair of limbs and got similar result. Went from 125gr points up to 250 and got the predictable left and right changes.

 

[Superkodiak38]

Are you shooting bare shafts through paper ? If not try a bare shaft to rule out feather contact... you are shooting feathers and not trad vanes or something right ? Only other suggestion is moving the nocking point more than you think you should until it comes into tune. There is either a downward force or contact going on IMHO...

 

[Steve O]

A few pictures from different angles might help this troubleshooting session immensely. There are a lot better options than a Bear Weatherest.

 

[bushpilot]

Ok I think I got it whipped now. I had to tweak the tiller a bit to make sure it was perfectly even, which made the bow super quiet and shock free. I also had to revisit my form (I think I was raising my bow arm slightly at release.)

Was able to get fairly straight bareshafts to land in with fletched Feather arrows at 20 yards. Will fine tune with broad heads and try out some vanes in the future. Thanks for all the help

for reference this is what my setup looks like

 

[NoRush24]

If you’re shooting nock high with the elevated rest and good bareshafts off the shelf you need to adjust your nocking point for the elevated rest. Maybe it’s too low and bouncing up when you shoot off the elevated rest. I currently have a win and win black elk with a springey rest, and it’s been the easiest to tune and best arrow flight I’ve been able to produce.