Scope mounting to maintain zero

LaGriz

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Foremidilosus,
Thank you for the informative thread. I once took a Rem 700 with my Kahles 3X9X42mm scope to a local gunsmith and asked that he remove and install the scope on a different rifle. I provided both new bases and new rings for the project. I told him I felt like I was up to the job myself but didn't want to risk damage to what I considered at the time to be "high end " glass. He praised me for being wise enough to put a fine scope on my new at the time Kimber 8400. I then watched him engage and the dove tail using the 1"" tube of the scope to torque it into place? I just about lost it, and caught myself before screaming at him. I liked and trusted the man. But was stunned by his disregard for a best practice of using a piece of bar stock to perform this task. I told him I was displeased and disappointed that he took such a short cut and right in front of me. "I came here because I wanted a professional job. instead, what I just saw was an effort I would expect from a 18 year old from a big box store." He realized and acknowledged it was a lapse in judgment. "I should have realized you wanted the new rings to be utilized." I don't think I hurt anything as the dovetail excepted the scope with out any binding." Then he showed me the 1" dowel he had in his kit for just this purpose. I think he was little bit embarrassed. The scope shows no damage and the friendship was spared. Unfortunately the man was killed several years later by a couple of thugs during a robbery. I now mount my own scopes and have done so without incident. Thanks for directions!

LaGriz
 

Fireguy

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Form,

What are your preferred rings for mounting a 30mm SWFA to a Tikka SL for hunting? I already have the Warne Mountain Tactical picatinny rail.
 
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Formidilosus

Formidilosus

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Form,

What are your preferred rings for mounting a 30mm SWFA to a Tikka SL for hunting? I already have the Warne Mountain Tactical picatinny rail.


Given the choice I'm always going NF Ultra Light lows because I trust what NF puts their name on, but truthfully any good pic ring will do. Warne Mountian Techs, Seekins, ARC, etc.
 

brushape

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Nov 13, 2013
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rohnert park, Ca
Just switched to this 4.5-18 Bushnell LRHS which has a very long scope tube should I flip my rings around to get more spacing or leave it like this? Been running this spacing on a vortex viper for 3 years without issues
c3d907cedfd4f6b7e9851fff33ab7266.jpg



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Formidilosus

Formidilosus

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Just switched to this 4.5-18 Bushnell LRHS which has a very long scope tube should I flip my rings around to get more spacing or leave it like this? Been running this spacing on a vortex viper for 3 years without issues

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I'm always going to assemble for max rang spacing.
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
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677
I literally mounted a scope this afternoon. Now I am going to take it off and do it again.! I honestly didn't think about the oil that could be anywhere/everywhere. This is the classic example of taking a little more time upfront to save headaches later on. Not counting the extra powder burned to figure out where issues are coming from. Thanks Form
 

ChrisAU

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@Formidilosus I have a rifle that I am completely replacing the optics system on, I have used purple loctite on a couple sets of rings/bases on this rifle. Would a swab with acetone be enough to clean the threads in the action or would you suggest chasing the threads with a tap to remove old loctite residue? Or just not worry about it past an acetone swab?
 
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Use Q tips soaked in acetone, brakekleen ect. and spin them into the mounting holes. It can be a tight fit, but that's good in order to clean the threading thoroughly. I rip off some of the cotton to help with fitment as well. If there is still some you can see after that, I use a small curved pick and "chase" the threads with it. I have gotten 100% clean results by doing it this way.
20200211_094447.jpg
 

ChrisAU

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Use Q tips soaked in acetone, brakekleen ect. and spin them into the mounting holes. It can be a tight fit, but that's good in order to clean the threading thoroughly. I rip off some of the cotton to help with fitment as well. If there is still some you can see after that, I use a small curved pick and "chase" the threads with it. I have gotten 100% clean results by doing it this way.
View attachment 153725

Thanks!
 

OXN939

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Jun 28, 2018
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Use Q tips soaked in acetone, brakekleen ect. and spin them into the mounting holes. It can be a tight fit, but that's good in order to clean the threading thoroughly. I rip off some of the cotton to help with fitment as well. If there is still some you can see after that, I use a small curved pick and "chase" the threads with it. I have gotten 100% clean results by doing it this way.
View attachment 153725

One additional practice I've seen cause failure commonly- people failing to snug their rings towards the FRONT of the slot in the Pic/Weaver rail they fit into, so as to cause the stake on the bottom of the rings to be in contact with the front edge of the slot. With heavy recoiling calibers (and, especially, heavier optics), you'll see the rings slipping forward on the bases during the recoil impulse if they're not in contact with each other.
 

Grundy53

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Thanks for the tips. I'm rescoping 4 rifles this weekend. I took all of the bases off and cleaned/degreased them. Man it was an eye opener.

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SteveCNJ

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Thank you for taking the time to share these best practices.

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Gila

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Apr 25, 2020
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Form,

What are your preferred rings for mounting a 30mm SWFA to a Tikka SL for hunting? I already have the Warne Mountain Tactical picatinny rail.
I have a scope and all the mounting hardware on order for a T3X lite. Do you happen to know what the thread size is for the base holes in the receiver?
 
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