Setting up a scope with drop compensation

[zoneVIII]

I have a Tikka T3X 300 Win mag with a Burris veracity 3x15x50 scope. The scope has moa bullet drop compensation hold-over marks that are supposed to be set at 100 yards, 200 yards . . . through 600 yards. My question is, I set the scope up so I am 2.5 inches high at a hundred thinking I should be dead on at 200. However, I am off on the bullet compensation marks and keep shooting high. Should I sight in so I am exact on the 100 yards or should I sight dead on at the 300-yard mark instead? or is there something else I am missing? Thanks!

 

[Cahunter805]

Just a quick look at the Burris website looks like you should set that reticle up so the crosshairs are dead on at 200 yards. This would be only about 1.5” high at 100.

 

[dieselchessy]

Most of them scopes come with directions that put chamberings in 2 groups, fast/slow ect…. The directions tend to have slower rounds zero at 100, and faster rounds zero at 200. I’d expect a 300 mag to be a 200 yard zero round.
Even then the scopes reticle subtensions won’t be exactly to your bullets trajectory.

 

[archp625]

I have a Tikka T3X 300 Win mag with a Burris veracity 3x15x50 scope. The scope has moa bullet drop compensation hold-over marks that are supposed to be set at 100 yards, 200 yards . . . through 600 yards. My question is, I set the scope up so I am 2.5 inches high at a hundred thinking I should be dead on at 200. However, I am off on the bullet compensation marks and keep shooting high. Should I sight in so I am exact on the 100 yards or should I sight dead on at the 300-yard mark instead? or is there something else I am missing? Thanks!

There is no way that reticle will get you exactly what you are wanting to do with it. It was not built around your rifle and cartridge. Sight it in at 100 and get out there and start shooting the different marks and make your own dope.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

There is no way that reticle will get you exactly what you are wanting to do with it. It was not built around your rifle and cartridge. Sight it in at 100 and get out there and start shooting the different marks and make your own dope.

This is the most logical answer. Shoot and verify!

 

[MThuntr]

Agreed with above those hash marks are just references and don't equate to true bullet drop. You'll need to figure out what each means to your rifle. Throw out the idea that each hash mark equals an exact distance. it would have been better if Burris stuck to using MOA hash marks. It could be that your rifle is zeroed at 200 and the next hash mark at 15x is 325 and the next is 392 and the next is 455.

Track your info and make a dope chart to tape to your stock. If your rifle has the burris turret then switch to that and ignore the hashmarks completely

 

[GSPHUNTER]

With my Nikon all shooting has to be done with magnification set at highest setting, in the case with my scope that setting is 9.

 

[Cahunter805]

With my Nikon all shooting has to be done with magnification set at highest setting, in the case with my scope that setting is 9.

Pretty sure that Burris is a FFP scope so he can be on any power but hopefully the OP double checks that.

 

[zoneVIII]

Just a quick look at the Burris website looks like you should set that reticle up so the crosshairs are dead on at 200 yards. This would be only about 1.5” high at 100.

Thank you I must have missed that!

 

[zoneVIII]

Agreed with above those hash marks are just references and don't equate to true bullet drop. You'll need to figure out what each means to your rifle. Throw out the idea that each hash mark equals an exact distance. it would have been better if Burris stuck to using MOA hash marks. It could be that your rifle is zeroed at 200 and the next hash mark at 15x is 325 and the next is 392 and the next is 455.

Track your info and make a dope chart to tape to your stock. If your rifle has the burris turret then switch to that and ignore the hashmarks completely

Thank you for the explanation! I guess I didn't think they would be dead on but I assumed I would be at least within 5-6 inches since the manual said the hash marks were placed at the various specified yardages. After playing around, I can see now that they just help with measurement so I know how high I'm holding over at certain distances. That is a good idea with the Turrent. Mine doesn't have that but I think I am going to order it as Burris says they will custom make one for my rifle and bullet combo.

 

[zoneVIII]

With my Nikon all shooting has to be done with magnification set at highest setting, in the case with my scope that setting is 9.

Thank you, That is true I believe with a second focal plane but mine is a first focal plane. Then again, I am certainly no expert!

 

[z987k]

Pull out the manual for the scope and figure out what the subtentions are for the marks, go chrono you load.

Done.

 

[grappling_hook]

Assuming you have the Ballistic Plex E1 FFP scope, their own chart shows the kind of variation those hash marks can mean depending on the particular bullet and velocity: https://www.burrisoptics.com/ballistic-calibration-examples-ballistic-plex-e1-mil-dot

 

[zoneVIII]

Assuming you have the Ballistic Plex E1 FFP scope, their own chart shows the kind of variation those hash marks can mean depending on the particular bullet and velocity: https://www.burrisoptics.com/ballistic-calibration-examples-ballistic-plex-e1-mil-dot

Great find! I thought was going crazy, I remembered seeing this somewhere but I couldn't find it and thought that was how I initially set up. After a second look, I see that I have many alternate variables such as bullet gr, and sight height, I also didn't account for the altitude I am shooting.

 

[Mountainrancher]

Burris has a reticle analysis tool on their website you can use that should be able to get you the answers you need. You can enter your cartridge info and it will show you on your exact reticle what yardage each hash will be.