Sewing 1.1 Ripstop Game Bags

hereinaz

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Dec 21, 2016
Messages
3,021
Location
Arizona
Would this info for sewing be accurate to x-pac as well? LS-07 or VX-07 as examples?
It is heavier than the lightweight ripstop, so it is much easier to deal with. The LS-07 is a laminate, and has a ripstop as the "inside" layer, so it is a lot easier. Xpac is stiff, so it acts different than most other fabrics. Even stiffer than 1000 D cordura.
 
OP
H

Hunt_UP

FNG
Joined
Feb 18, 2021
Messages
53
What I thought would be an easy DIY project is sure sounding a little more complicated, I think I am going to do plenty of practice on some old t-shirts to brush up on some sewing waiting for my materials to come in. Thank you guys for all the help and tips. I will post some pictures and show how my project goes.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2018
Messages
37
Location
Alaska
First sewing project I started with was a pack cover made with sil nylon from ripstop by the roll. Don't recall what weight it was. Wasn't overly hard, but very slick to work with. Wish I would have known about the tape, should have researched it more. It turned out alright isn't very pretty but it serves its purpose.
 
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
823
Location
Becker Ridge, Alaska
Does ripstop nylon breathe adequately?
For game bags, air circulation and crusting is important...we usually backpack our cotton or synthetic game bags inside a contractor plastic bag packing to camp, then hang in the shade with as much air circulation as possible.
 

go_deep

WKR
Joined
Jan 7, 2021
Messages
1,640
Got the same question as AK_Skeeter. I use a heavier cotton and if ripstop breaths like cotton this would definitely help reduce some weight.
Anyone have first hand experience hanging meat for multiple days?
 
OP
H

Hunt_UP

FNG
Joined
Feb 18, 2021
Messages
53
From the research I have been doing. Ripstop 1.1 is breathable, lightweight and strong. You can get 1.0 and heavier weight 1.9. I’m not 100% how they will turn out, but worse case scenario, I will make some blaze orange pack covers, maybe a stuff sacks or whatever and try a different material. I could have ordered a sample pack, but the material wasn’t too expensive so I just bought a few yards. I ordered through ripstopbytheroll. Material should be in on monday, I’ll post more as the project progresses.
 

magtech

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 15, 2018
Messages
242
Location
Michigan
Anyone else here use a basting foot for edges? I picked one up the other day. I finally understand out they do those edges. And its pretty simple with the foot.

Is there a strong mesh that would work for a game bag. On my AGC bino harness the should straps have a pretty strong mesh in them. That looks like it would work well for a game bag BUT I have never made one so i dont know.
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2021
Messages
14
I second using true flat felled seams. You may have to sew every seam twice but they are worth it especially for something that will see some pulling stress like having meat loaded into it. Test it first but most fabrics you can hit with a low temp iron to create the hem and on flat felled seams it works to fold them iron them and then sew. I bought fabric sewing clips off amazon so i don't have to use pins (more holes to seam sill with pins) and they work great.
 
OP
H

Hunt_UP

FNG
Joined
Feb 18, 2021
Messages
53
Just checking in since I said I would follow up. Progress has been slow since this is just a “do it as I have time”.

i used my carpenter square for cutting and mapping out the cuts. The 5$ soldering iron worked perfectly and all the cuts came out great. No fraying and sealed the edges. I even trimmed my sewn edges to “weld” the two edges together. By just running the soldering iron through two layers, they almost weld together and create a really strong bond.

I did a flat felled seam on the first bag, but then realized I had a hard time feeding the para cord thru, so I have been just double stitching. I realized this isn’t the perfect way, but I have been load testing and so far haven’t had a single stitch break or seen any stretching from the fabric with 60lbs hanging in my basement rafters for 24hrs. I’ll post some more pictures when I fishing, but essentially for 30$ I have 3 - 19x40”, 1 - 19x24, 1 - 19x16. The small bag was my test and learning piece. It actually is good size to fit a deer or bear skull. The other will be a parts bag. The other three are big enough I figure for bone in deer quarters or bone out elk. I will probably make more for elk just in case.

I don’t have a scale to measure weight, but they are extremely light weight and breathe very well. I will post a weight when I can borrow my brother in laws scale.
 

Attachments

  • A6A05144-5663-4165-9136-098B14CAEFEB.jpeg
    A6A05144-5663-4165-9136-098B14CAEFEB.jpeg
    387.7 KB · Views: 42
  • 1C588B93-A7D5-4F63-893A-FC6C6CEC0141.jpeg
    1C588B93-A7D5-4F63-893A-FC6C6CEC0141.jpeg
    505.3 KB · Views: 41
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    263.9 KB · Views: 39
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    508 KB · Views: 45
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    241.2 KB · Views: 44
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    280.9 KB · Views: 46

CB1

FNG
Joined
Mar 31, 2021
Messages
94
Location
Colorado
Didn’t think about using the ripstop nylon to make my own game bags. I have a bunch left over from a quilt I made. Great tip about using the soldering iron to cut and prevent fraying.
 
OP
H

Hunt_UP

FNG
Joined
Feb 18, 2021
Messages
53
CB1 - FYI I did use uncoated ripstop 1.1. So if your using some pieces laying around, that might be something to consider.
 

CB1

FNG
Joined
Mar 31, 2021
Messages
94
Location
Colorado
Good call out! I assume the coated nylon would be like putting meat in a trash bag lol. Mine is uncoated also.
 
Top