Sheep Boots

[Silvereagle50]

That’s been my question Travis.
Seems the uninsulated will breath better while hiking.
But if sitting for several hours glassing, a guy might need some warmer boots.


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[Travis2282]

Yea I have been debating on boots for a late season goat hunt in BC in a few years. I would assume 400 gram would be good for the snow!? Looking at the kennetrek my extreme.

 

[Silvereagle50]

I’m looking at a sheep hunt more like mid August in Alaska or maybe a July hunt in Canada if I can find one reasonable.


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[B.S.]

I used the Cevedales on my Sheep hunt, Alaska Range, glacier country. Boot performed well and was suited to the terrain. Talking to my guide, he said I lucked out as I should have had an insulated boot, they often get snow on those hunts, even in early August (he used Kennetrek 400 grams - which worked, but don't hold up for him). I've since used the cevedales on high country mule deer hunts in NV and Idaho and been happy with them there too.

Only issue I had was after my hunt we chased moose and they leaked badly. Others have reported (pretty sure there is a review on this site) they are good to go/don't leak, so could have been bad luck on my part.

Brett

 

[ColeyG]

In mid-August here in AK I'd expect to get snowed on and have low temps at or around freezing at or above 3500'. That time of year, the snow seems to come and go and daytime highs can swing pretty wildly from downright hot to pretty chilly. I have never needed nor wanted an insulated boot on an August sheep hunt. Walking in snow is less of an issue than prolonged exposure to sub-freezing temps. Even "uninsulated" boots do have insulating properties and synthetics, in my opinion, are warmer than most uninsulated leather boots. They dry out more quickly as well.

We are each different with regard to cold tolerance, circulation, and preference as well. If you absolutely can't stand chilly toes even for short periods of time, take warmer boots. I do get cold toes when sitting for longer periods of time in my sheep boots of choice, but then again I usually don't wind up sitting for long periods of time while sheep hunting.

For me late season goat hunts (Oct-Nov) are typically going to involve extensive travel in snow, crampon use, and temps at or well below freezing. I use La Sportiva Nepal Extremes down to about 15F, and then switch to La Sportiva Spanktiks for temps colder than that. As you might imagine, these boots get progressively heavier and more cumbersome as additional insulation is needed. I prefer to use the lightest boot that I can reasonably get away with based on conditions, and I usually err on the side of running a little colder as compared to sweating a bunch.

 

[Yellowknife]

I'm in ColeyG's camp.

I prefer un-insulated or minimally insulated in August. They breath better and dry faster when they inevitably get wet. While snow is always a possibility (I hunted at snowline this year), I generally don't have a problem with cold feet. On the other hand, trying to get a wet insulated leather boot to dry out can sometimes be the near impossible task

For later season goat hunts with serious snow possibilities, I also have a set of mountaineering boots (La Sportiva Nepals) that run warmer. I have also used them in August a couple times, but that was more due to lack of options than suitability. They were significant overkill on those occasions.

 

[notchfir3]

There's not really been a boot nirvana in the last couple of years so the results will be about the same.

I'm still using Lowa Tibets with great satisfaction. Plastics have their fans and well they should.

Kind of a general rule is you want boots with torsional rigidity to make sidehilling safer and much easier on the ankles. Taller boots are harder on shins and plastics can be hard on your knees until you learn to walk in them. Cheap, soft boots are about the worst things you could use however.

 

[nuclear worker]

Just got a pair of Crispi hunters 200 gram insulation. Have 500 flights of steps wearing 60 pound pack zero problems. The most comfortable boots ever worn. Have had Kenetrek, Meindel ,Rocky. Going on my first Dall Sheep hunt so I can’t tell you how they work on the mountain yet.

 

[alpinej7]

Many great options listed here. I'll add that after many years of mountaineering, hunting, and backpacking, a full shank sole is often too much when not using crampons. Last year I picked up a pair of Scarpa Kinesis Pro GTX and have been very happy with them for both deer/elk hunting as well as backpacking with a heavy load. They strike the right balance of support/rigidity and flexibility.

 

[USMC-40]

So my Scarpa Rebel K’s arrived. So far I am very impressed. Light, yet stiff. Well made boot. The only thing I am skeptical of is the lace loops seem to be a potential fail point, but time will tell

 

[Halfslam]

Hoffman boots out of Kellogg, Idaho are my go to boot for sheep hunting. 10" Explorer.

 

[ColeyG]

So my Scarpa Rebel K’s arrived. So far I am very impressed. Light, yet stiff. Well made boot. The only thing I am skeptical of is the lace loops seem to be a potential fail point, but time will tell

I used to be pretty skeptical of the "soft'on'soft" lace/eyelet interface as well. That is, laces running through webbing loops or in some cases, back through the lace material itself. My experience has been that with a hard lace loop/eyelet, you wind up chewing through laces pretty quickly and/or tearing out and breaking the lace eyelets. The soft-on-soft interface actually holds up quite well in high end boots and is less likely to get smashed off on a rock and chew through laces over time. I think a lot of this durability is due to the fact that because these boots are so form fitting, there doesn't tend to be a lot of lace movement in the tying and untying process, especially close to the toe of the boots.

I have a pair of Scarpa Freney XTs that are 12 years old and I've never replaced the laces or had an eyelet blow out. For what it's worth.

 

[USMC-40]

I used to be pretty skeptical of the "soft'on'soft" lace/eyelet interface as well. That is, laces running through webbing loops or in some cases, back through the lace material itself. My experience has been that with a hard lace loop/eyelet, you wind up chewing through laces pretty quickly and/or tearing out and breaking the lace eyelets. The soft-on-soft interface actually holds up quite well in high end boots and is less likely to get smashed off on a rock and chew through laces over time. I think a lot of this durability is due to the fact that because these boots are so form fitting, there doesn't tend to be a lot of lace movement in the tying and untying process, especially close to the toe of the boots.

I have a pair of Scarpa Freney XTs that are 12 years old and I've never replaced the laces or had an eyelet blow out. For what it's worth.

Good to know. Thank you for the insight!

 

[EastMT]

So I have worn the cabelas meindle for quite a few years, one finally sprung a leak. I went and bought a new pair, and the lateral support was not what my old ones were, I don’t know what changes but the new ones have a different label than my old ones, I returned them for kenetrek extremes.

The kenetrek felt good uphill, but downhill killed me to the point of thinking about taking them off. Flat ground I really liked them. I was hiking above goats bear hunting but luckily not on a real long hunt or it would have ruined the hunt. I returned them they just hurt too bad, didn’t fit my feet right.

I found a used pair of scarpa mont blanks, and they fit me perfect! They are super stiff laterally for sidehilling, uphill the stiff sole digs the toe in well without your foot folding in half. I then bought a pair of the scarpa grand Dru, so I have one insulated pair, one pair uninsulated.

If I lived in flatter country, mostly flat hiking the kenetrek were awesome and sturdy, if I could get a perfect fit they would work great.

I was really sad that the meindles were no longer stiff, I don’t know if it was a bad batch or if they changed the design, but I looked at the ones they had in stock and you could crush them flat with one hand and collapse the shank. I have messed up ankles, and without super stiff for sidehilling I’m in trouble.

I think the takeaway is try as many as possible, if nothing fits you right L&S may be the only option.




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[Ariettabob]

I have a couple of small oddities with my feet. Therefore the choice was easy for me. My Lanthrop foot imprint kit arrived an hour ago. I’m excited to begin the process.

 

[rhusby28]

I’ve wore Danner Pronghorns for quite awhile and have gotten me buy 3-5 days at a time. Finally broke the bank on a pair of Kennetrek Mountain Extreme for this years hunting season.

 

[mcndrew]

+1 on Salewa Crows

My feet are "normal" width, high arch, and narrow heeled (one is half size shorter and slightly wider than the other fwtw). Typically boots that hold my heels crush my forefoot/toes and toes boxes that fit my forefoot leave my heel swimming; these are all the Sportiva and similar Euro brands. EXCEPT Salewa. So, if you think you have Salewa feet.... they are awesome. I have some quibbles with their lace hooks, but no other brand boots fits as well for me so, <shrug> happy feet.

A little too stiff for me for covering ground on a trail, but carrying a 40lb pack off trail and edging around on steep stuff they really work well for me. They are the stiffest of Salewa's light boots. I think if the soles were any stiffer they wouldn't have enough ankle support, if that makes sense?

These have a fiberglass filled nylon shank. If you want more flex they also make the Mtn Trainer which is the same boot but the shank only has nylon.

Edited to add: The next bump up in weight/stiffness is the "Raven"

 

[GoatBoat218]

Not on your list but cabelas Alaskan mendiels have been a great mountian boot for me
Stiff but walkable hard sole. No break in. Straight outa the box to the rocks.

I have been using those for a few seasons and regret buying them, wouldn't recommend them but every foot is different.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Really digging the crispi birksdall SF.

 

[kad11]

+1 on Salewa Crows

My feet are "normal" width, high arch, and narrow heeled (one is half size shorter and slightly wider than the other fwtw). Typically boots that hold my heels crush my forefoot/toes and toes boxes that fit my forefoot leave my heel swimming; these are all the Sportiva and similar Euro brands. EXCEPT Salewa. So, if you think you have Salewa feet.... they are awesome. I have some quibbles with their lace hooks, but no other brand boots fits as well for me so, <shrug> happy feet.

A little too stiff for me for covering ground on a trail, but carrying a 40lb pack off trail and edging around on steep stuff they really work well for me. They are the stiffest of Salewa's light boots. I think if the soles were any stiffer they wouldn't have enough ankle support, if that makes sense?

These have a fiberglass filled nylon shank. If you want more flex they also make the Mtn Trainer which is the same boot but the shank only has nylon.

Edited to add: The next bump up in weight/stiffness is the "Raven"

Great explanation and it sounds like we have similar feet.

How do the Crows run for sizing? I'm typically a 46.5 (12.5), but it looks like these are only available in 12 or 13. I recently tried the new Raven 3 in size 13, but they were a little too big and stiffer than I'd prefer...

Have you tried the newest iteration of the Scarpa Charmoz? They have a nice toebox and the heel pocket is deep with a nice narrow lock at the top of the heel/ Achilles area. They don't have hardly any rocker though...