Shooting broadheads from above the shelf.

[CNP Mike]

I know this ones been beat to death but the more info out there the better. I realize lots of folks like to shoot their arrows so that they extend an inch or so beyond the shelf but I’m not looking for your opinion. I want to hear from guys that shoot their broadheads above the shelf. I shoot iron will s125’s and build my arrows so the blade sits horizontally above the shelf. The rear of my broadheads usually sit just at the front end of the Berger hole. I’m switching to a lighter arrow and looking to add a bit more point weight. In order to put my spine where it needs to be, I’ll be looking at taking an extra inch off of my shafts. I shoot a hamskea hybrid hunter pro.

Any insight or issues running similar setups?

 

[Nick Muche]

I shoot mine so that the broadhead is as close to the rest at full draw as possible and I haven't had any issues.

 

[Billy Goat]

Pretty common anymore to have the arrow extend about an inch past your rest, only issues is running large coc broadheads. I don't know many at all who run the arrow past the riser, unless they are a stick bow shooter.

 

[jmez]

Shoot mine like Nick. Have for years and no issues. Make sure you have a proper grip and keep you index finger out of the way.

 

[CNP Mike]

Pretty common anymore to have the arrow extend about an inch past your rest, only issues is running large coc broadheads. I don't know many at all who run the arrow past the riser, unless they are a stick bow shooter.

I seem to be singled out in my neck. People are always giving me grief.

 

[Greenmachine_1]

I seem to be singled out in my neck. People are always giving me grief.

My pro-shop wanted me to run a longer arrow, but I cut mine short (an inch or so past the rest) and haven't looked back.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[OR Archer]

If you’re going to be adding a collar to help up your point weight make sure you’re going to have clearance on your launcher blade before cutting your shafts down. Otherwise there’s no issues unless you torque the bow on the draw and catch a blade on the riser.

 

[dkime]

I shoot a Day Six HD 300 and the collar of that arrow is within 1/4" of my hamskea launcher. This puts the broadhead directly over the shelf of my riser. The widest cutting broadhead I shoot is a ST Mag, I've never had an issue with cutting finger but its always a possibility and probably a matter of time until I do.

 

[5MilesBack]

All of mine have always been shot above the shelf.

 

[Billy Goat]

Recent post from Cam Hanes. Well past the riser....pretty sure he knows what he is doing.
View attachment 243815

Ok.


I have a multitude of responses in my head. Cam is a bad ass when it comes to physical endurance. Right now I'll hold my responses. I have had a few drinks.



But Cam gets paid to influence. When I see him shooting on the line in Vegas or any NFAA or ASA/IBO shoot I might pay more attention to how his bow is setup. Please don't take that as an attack against him. Just I have seen people who are straight up killers who have no clue how to tune a bow. I don't know where he falls exactly. Nothing wrong with past the riser, works for many. Just generally it still will tune better to be inside the riser, when talking broadheads. Seems to be a sweet spot with your arrow about an inch past your rest.

 

[Arctic Hunter]

I’ve shot that way off and on for years. I don’t pay any attention to where it ends up, other than it could be a little more susceptible to torque.

Shoot whatever tunes the best.

 

[Reburn]

Recent post from Cam Hanes. Well past the riser....pretty sure he knows what he is doing.
View attachment 243815

What is he doing? Do you have knowledge of how that bow was setup? Was his spine too stiff? Was he tring to get the most grain weight possible? I cant see the best but that for sure looks like a field tip to me. Thought we were specifically talking about broadheads?

My point is there is lots of ways to setup and tune a bow. Making assumptions based on a picture because it fits your way of thinking without any in depth knowledge of the setup or why the person set it up that way is laughable.

 

[Shawn_Guinn]

Currently shoot with my arrows half out insert a quarter inch in front of my rest. With drop away full containment rest and proper form I see no issues. I cut arrrows to maximize my spine and TAW desire just can’t go shorter than 28.25 carbon to carbon on current set up.

 

[5MilesBack]

Whatever tunes best for you......

 

[Billy Goat]

Looking at the picture of Cam, if I was shooting a grip like rhat, I'd have a long arrow as well.


I'm wondering if he torque tuned and settled on the position of the sight from that, or just decided to run it all the way out.

 

[5MilesBack]

He looks like he has a really short draw as well, so he can easily shoot arrows past the riser as needed. My arrows that stop above the shelf, would be past his sight on that setup. With an arrow that short, he can probably shoot .400 spine arrows even shooting 80lbs....lol.

 

[Samdemarais]

Recent post from Cam Hanes. Well past the riser....pretty sure he knows what he is doing.
View attachment 243815

Levi Morgan cuts his arrows a quarter inch past his rest.......

 

[Samdemarais]

I know this ones been beat to death but the more info out there the better. I realize most folks like to shoot their arrows so that they extend an inch or so beyond the shelf but I’m not looking for your opinion. I want to hear from guys that shoot their broadheads above the shelf. I shoot iron will s125’s and build my arrows so the blade sits horizontally above the shelf. The rear of my broadheads usually sit just at the front end of the Berger hole. I’m switching to a lighter arrow and looking to add a bit more point weight. In order to put my spine where it needs to be, I’ll be looking at taking an extra inch off of my shafts. I shoot a hamskea hybrid hunter pro.

Any insight or issues running similar setups?

Back to the real question. I shoot IW s125 as well and cut my arrows pretty close to my rest. Shooting hamskea as well. It does not matter as long as they aren’t too short.

 

[Hoodie]

It's a tuning thing for me. If I use software like OT2 or AA sometimes a 340 will need to be just a little too short for my personal comfort level, whereas a 300 left a little long will tune out with a point weight closer to what I like. In those cases I usually prefer to go with the stiffer shaft.

I started out shooting a recurve, and my current compound can't be yoke tuned so, within reason, I think of arrow length as a tuning parameter. As long as it isn't crazy short or cartoonishly long I'm okay with it.

I do use big COC broadheads. My current set-up extends about as far past the riser as the Cam Hanes pic.

 

[Billy Goat]

Doc I can't say that I understand what you are trying to prove?

I mean, you clearly have a man crush going on, and that's cool.

Other than pictures I haven't seen what you have brought to the discussion. I don't know that stock photos do much to add to the point.



Most have determined that a stiffer spine is easier to broadhead tune, thus a shorter arrow. There's also a sweet spot with torque. Mainly playing with the distance of the sight and the rest in relation to the riser, but I feel that the longer the shaft extends past the grip center, the more torque will tend to effect it.

Only drawback, as you mentioned, is the possibility of your fingers infront of the broadhead. A lot of that has to do with your grip. Something to be mindful of.


As I said in my original statement, I don't know of many who shoot out past the riser. I know of two actually. I'm not referring to pictures of anyone, these are archers that I personally know, shoot around, and respect their opinions.