Should I be worried about my setup?

[mlgc20]

I am shooting very well with field points. When I practice with my Rage Trypans, again I shoot well. Not quite as well as with field points. But, still acceptable. When I go to a fixed blade broadhead (Slick Trick Magnums or Thunderheads), things go haywire. I consistently start missing to the right. Significantly right. This is true from 25 to 80 yards. Since I am shooting well with the Trypans, do I just keep practicing with the current setup and plan on using the Trypans? Or do I have a bigger problem, since I can't get the fixed blades to fly the way I want them to?

Setup:
Matthews Triax
70 pounds
27.5 draw length
Bloodsport Evidence 350 arrows
100 grain tips
QAD Rest
Spott Hogg Fast Eddie 2 pin

 

[BowhuntingBrune3]

I would say there is an underlying issue personally. It is much easier to get a mechanical to fly like a field point because they have less surface area. Which means you can get them to fly with a bow that is not properly tuned. I would say make sure you can shoot fixed blades consistently with your field points to the best of your ability. Not only will you be able to shoot a fixed blade (obviously) but a bow that shoots a mechanical that is out of tune isn't shooting them as efficiently as they could be. I also have seen bows that shoot over 300fps be super hard to tune fixed blades. Not an IBO of over 300 but actual arrow speeds with your hunting arrow.

 

[nphunter]

You are most likely shooting over 300fps with those arrows. Unfourtnalty they are already on the weak side for spine do to go heavier you will need different arrows. You have plenty of energy to shoot mechanicals and if they are flying well you could do that. To shoot fixed heads at 300+ you have to have a really true small cut head and very good consistent form. If you want to shoot fixed heads look at the kudu or similar heads, that are two blades and 1 1/8” cut.
The Trypan is a great durable head and I shoot them elk hunting and have had good luck. They do fly well, with a 70lb bow and a TAW around 400gr you should have no issues using them.
Honestly if I could hunt with a Trypan in every state I would have an arrow slightly heavier than yours flying right around 300. I am shooting a 500gr arrow at 280fps, that is where I feel I can still get fixed heads to fly well and have decent trajectory. I hunt in states that allow mechanics and also states that don’t, I don’t want a different arrow for each state and I don’t like shooting temperamental setups with fixed heads.

You could try messing with your rest making very small adjustments to see if that helps but you will always struggle with those heads or any other 3 or 4 blade head at those speeds.

 

[Billy Goat]

Sounds like a tuning issue to me. You should be able to shoot slick tricks pretty close to your field points.

Give a little more details, arrow length for one. Vane setup as well. Sounds to me like weak spine in my experience however you seem to be pretty close.

How did you initially tune the bow? Could be as simple as adjusting the top hats.


Edit:
After looking it up it looks like those arrows use an outsert system that weighs an additional 60 grains, definitely makes me think it's spine issue. 10.2 gpi shaft with another 60 grains on the front. Guessing you are around 455 grains. That's putting you around 275-280 fps with that bow I believe. I'd try reducing the draw weight 7-8# and see if it helps it.

 

[5MilesBack]

Do some BH tuning and it should straighten them right up, and your FP's will even shoot better.

 

[SDHNTR]

Yes. Tune your setup and/or your form. Your setup is telling you something is wrong. Find a good pro shop.

 

[406unltd]

If those fixed heads aren’t flying then your bow isnt tuned. Gotta put in the work to get those hitting right.

 

[mlgc20]

Thanks for the responses guys. I did just drop in to my local pro shop to have them take a look. They said that my nock was slightly high of level. So, they moved that and the peep down a bit. We are going to start with that and see if that fixes the issue. If not, we will look at other options. Including user error. Thanks again for the input.

 

[SDHNTR]

Make sure your hand is relaxed and not gripping the bow at the shot. More “tuning” issues are the Indian rather than the bow, and most of those issues are grip and/or slapping the trigger.

 

[mlgc20]

Headed to the backyard right now to practice. Will work on that. Thanks.

 

[Billy Goat]

Thanks for the responses guys. I did just drop in to my local pro shop to have them take a look. They said that my nock was slightly high of level. So, they moved that and the peep down a bit. We are going to start with that and see if that fixes the issue. If not, we will look at other options. Including user error. Thanks again for the input.

Nocking point is going to be related to up/down with your broadheads. Not left/right.

 

[mlgc20]

Nocking point is going to be related to up/down with your broadheads. Not left/right.

Agreed. But, this was the only thing that "appeared" wrong with the bow. I am going to re-sight and practice a bit with the new nock point for a few days and see what happens. If the problem persists, I'm going to go back for a more in depth look at the bow and myself. I only had a few minutes at the shop today. It may very well need to take some more time and have them take a look at my form and see if anything there is going on. I was able to shoot the Slick Tricks last year out to 80 yards well last year. So, something has changed.

 

[406unltd]

If they don’t shoot it through paper they can’t tell you everything else is good to go. D loop and peep aren’t going to help the issue. Paper tune to get close then Broadhead tune

 

[MattB]

If your FBBH's are missing left/right, you should either yoke tune or make micro adjustments to the rest. When your fixed blade POI is that different, your bow is not tuned properly and the penetration with your Rage will likely suffer.

 

[stonewall]

Sounds like a tuning issue to me. You should be able to shoot slick tricks pretty close to your field points.

Give a little more details, arrow length for one. Vane setup as well. Sounds to me like weak spine in my experience however you seem to be pretty close.

How did you initially tune the bow? Could be as simple as adjusting the top hats.


Edit:
After looking it up it looks like those arrows use an outsert system that weighs an additional 60 grains, definitely makes me think it's spine issue. 10.2 gpi shaft with another 60 grains on the front. Guessing you are around 455 grains. That's putting you around 275-280 fps with that bow I believe. I'd try reducing the draw weight 7-8# and see if it helps it.

I agree with turning draw weight down and tuning to see if that helps

 

[Farmingdale's Finest]

Broadhead amplify poor launch whether that’s form related or tune. Assuming you’ve got good form then tune come in to play

How I tune a bow is papertune to get things close then I step off to 40 yards and broadhead tune shooting first my Fixed blade head and then my FP so as not to cut my fletching. Then assuming they aren’t hitting within my normal FP group I follow the directions in the below chart. By doing so I have been able to get my original Muzzy 3&4 blade heads, FP’s and my mechanicals all to hit the same POI with my personal bows shooting from 260fps to about 308fps.

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[5MilesBack]

I'd also make sure your arrows are spinning true. I was BH tuned at 60 yards recently and went out and shot one yesterday that was consistently 5" right at 60. I was pulling my hair out trying to get that thing right until I put the BH on a different arrow and set everything back to where it was. Then it went through the same hole that the FP arrow did. I put them all on a spinner and that first arrow with the BH wobbled, the 2nd was true as could be. Another wobbly arrow to the wobble pile.

 

[mlgc20]

I went back to the pro shop this morning and had the time to do it right. We shot it through paper and it was ugly. Definitely out of tune. Pretty substantial horizontal tearing. The guy messed with the top hats and pretty soon it was looking perfect. Going to re-sight this evening. Then hopefully off and running again. Thanks again to you guys for the input.

 

[Shawn_Guinn]

I've been playing with bare shaft tunning after the bow is set as well as can be. Syncing cams and paper tune ECT ECT. After I make small rest adjustment until I can bring a fletched arrow and bare shaft together at 20. Then I shoot my broad heads and have been really pleased with the flight.

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