Sight Tape Before Tune & Mod Change

[gelton]

Just getting the new bow sighted in but at the moment I have the wrong mods (my fault didn't tell them to install 80% off instead of 85%) and the bow hasn't been tuned yet as the string hasn't settled.

Is it okay to go ahead and work out the sight tape or would you wait until those things have been done?

Side note - I switched from Black Gold to Spott Hogg and man their way of sighting in a sight tape is way more cumbersome than black gold, wish you could just use FPS, so much easier.

 

[sndmn11]

I would wait for sure.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Sight tapes are primarily a function of arrow speed. You'll pick up a little speed going from 85% to 80% mods but it may not be enough to warrant changing tapes. That said, unless I were in a time crunch, I'd just wait until I put the new mods on and completed the initial tune before I started sighting in.

 

[Billy Goat]

I went from 85% to 80% mods and didn't need to change anything.

I wouldn't bet on that. The bigger factor could be the arrow loosing energy from coming out of the bow poorly from not being tuned. You can loose a lot of energy in the drag of the arrow getting straight.

I wouldn't set your tape yet, too many things could still alter it.

And a fps tape ain't very accurate. Too many factors.

 

[Samdemarais]

Just getting the new bow sighted in but at the moment I have the wrong mods (my fault didn't tell them to install 80% off instead of 85%) and the bow hasn't been tuned yet as the string hasn't settled.

Is it okay to go ahead and work out the sight tape or would you wait until those things have been done?

Side note - I switched from Black Gold to Spott Hogg and man their way of sighting in a sight tape is way more cumbersome than black gold, wish you could just use FPS, so much easier.

I haven’t used black gold but sport hog tape is pretty easy?? Shoot 20, shoot 60 and pick the number tape.

 

[gelton]

I haven’t used black gold but sport hog tape is pretty easy?? Shoot 20, shoot 60 and pick the number tape.

I wouldn't say its hard I would say it is a PIA...for example, I have a 5 pin Fast Eddi XL and the bottom pin is my slider, so I have to sight in the bottom pin at 20 and work my way back in 10 yard increments sliding it down along the way till I get to 60 (one could go directly to 60 and risk losing arrows but not I) then when I have those marks, I still need to go back and sight in the 20, 30, 40 and 50 with the actual pins.

Yes, there are other ways of doing it but if you want the most travel on the slider you should use your bottom pin to do this.

Black gold + a chronograph you can have it done in 10 arrows from a single yardage.

 

[N2TRKYS]

I saw a video where a guy’s velocity went down when he moved from 85 to 80%. Either way, I’d set my tapes when my bow was ready for it.

 

[silasbowhunter]

I wouldn't say its hard I would say it is a PIA...for example, I have a 5 pin Fast Eddi XL and the bottom pin is my slider, so I have to sight in the bottom pin at 20 and work my way back in 10 yard increments sliding it down along the way till I get to 60 (one could go directly to 60 and risk losing arrows but not I) then when I have those marks, I still need to go back and sight in the 20, 30, 40 and 50 with the actual pins.

Yes, there are other ways of doing it but if you want the most travel on the slider you should use your bottom pin to do this.

Black gold + a chronograph you can have it done in 10 arrows from a single yardage.

That’s making the assumption that all arrows have the same trajectory at a certain speed. I just make my own sight tape. Easy as pie haha


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[Reburn]

The chances that the FPS the arrow is actually going lining up with the sight tape is nearly zero. Sight in at 20. Shoot at 60. Pick the tape that has the same gap. Lay tape up against your pins and set to tape. Re-verify by shooting in.

My process. - make sure everything is setup right first. Mods, D loop.
sight in at 20. Paper tune. Broadhead tune at 20 or bareshaft. Torque tune. Final tie in peep. Draw board and put everything in pinwheel. Chrono. Take that speed into pinwheel. Always results in lowering IBO speed. Make tape. Verify tape. They are always wrong I just make sure everythin else is inputted perfectly in pinwheel and then adjust IBO speed in pinwheel by lowering again. Broadhead tune at 60. Shoot field points at 100. Measure drop difference and true tape up in program by raising or lowering IBO speed to make up the drop differnce. Use tape to set 20, 35, 50 pins again. Shoot in. Generally here everything is spot on. Re verify broadheads at 70. Re shoot at 100 and make sure I'm on. I make sure through out the process that the center shot on the rest stays within specs and through the berger holes. It might seem like alot but I can have damn near perfect arrow flight and a trued up bow in a weekend screwing around with it.

 

[gelton]

The chances that the FPS the arrow is actually going lining up with the sight tape is nearly zero. Sight in at 20. Shoot at 60. Pick the tape that has the same gap. Lay tape up against your pins and set to tape. Re-verify by shooting in.

My process. - make sure everything is setup right first. Mods, D loop.
sight in at 20. Paper tune. Broadhead tune at 20 or bareshaft. Torque tune. Final tie in peep. Draw board and put everything in pinwheel. Chrono. Take that speed into pinwheel. Always results in lowering IBO speed. Make tape. Verify tape. They are always wrong I just make sure everythin else is inputted perfectly in pinwheel and then adjust IBO speed in pinwheel by lowering again. Broadhead tune at 60. Shoot field points at 100. Measure drop difference and true tape up in program by raising or lowering IBO speed to make up the drop differnce. Use tape to set 20, 35, 50 pins again. Shoot in. Generally here everything is spot on. Re verify broadheads at 70. Re shoot at 100 and make sure I'm on. I make sure through out the process that the center shot on the rest stays within specs and through the berger holes. It might seem like alot but I can have damn near perfect arrow flight and a trued up bow in a weekend screwing around with it.

I didn't have much of a difference at longer distances using FPS, unless this method is a big improvement over that I don't think I would notice much...maybe it's my ability (wouldn't call myself the greatest of shots but I can hang) I think I was like 2 yards off at 80 using the FPS method with field points and maybe another 1.5 yards with Iron Wills.

 

[Marble]

It's not a really big deal to change sight tapes. Takes longer to cut the tape then to out it on.

Maybe focus on getting the other pins figured out

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[Joe Holden]

Cut a strip of painters tape to fit and mark it with a pen. It'll give you a reference while not burning up tapes while things settle.

 

[gelton]

Cut a strip of painters tape to fit and mark it with a pen. It'll give you a reference while not burning up tapes while things settle.

Yup that is what I was going to do.

 

[OR Archer]

I wouldn't say its hard I would say it is a PIA...for example, I have a 5 pin Fast Eddi XL and the bottom pin is my slider, so I have to sight in the bottom pin at 20 and work my way back in 10 yard increments sliding it down along the way till I get to 60 (one could go directly to 60 and risk losing arrows but not I) then when I have those marks, I still need to go back and sight in the 20, 30, 40 and 50 with the actual pins.

Yes, there are other ways of doing it but if you want the most travel on the slider you should use your bottom pin to do this.

Black gold + a chronograph you can have it done in 10 arrows from a single yardage.

It’s a lot easier if you do your fixed pins first. Then you can make a mark of where you’re sight is then roll it up and sight your bottom in at 20. Attach your calibration tape then roll it back to your previous mark and see what tape it indicates to use.

 

[Samdemarais]

I wouldn't say its hard I would say it is a PIA...for example, I have a 5 pin Fast Eddi XL and the bottom pin is my slider, so I have to sight in the bottom pin at 20 and work my way back in 10 yard increments sliding it down along the way till I get to 60 (one could go directly to 60 and risk losing arrows but not I) then when I have those marks, I still need to go back and sight in the 20, 30, 40 and 50 with the actual pins.

Yes, there are other ways of doing it but if you want the most travel on the slider you should use your bottom pin to do this.

Black gold + a chronograph you can have it done in 10 arrows from a single yardage.

Ya that seems easier but not as accurate. Also, you have to have a couple hundred dollar chronograph which most people do not. To each his own.

 

[Billy Goat]

Ya that seems easier but not as accurate. Also, you have to have a couple hundred dollar chronograph which most people do not. To each his own.

The chronograph part doesn't exactly work anyways since everyone has a different distance from eye to sight.

It's just a selling point. Look how easy this is.

Just like a broadhead package that says flys like a field point.

 

[gelton]

The chronograph part doesn't exactly work anyways since everyone has a different distance from eye to sight.

It's just a selling point. Look how easy this is.

Just like a broadhead package that says flys like a field point.

Hey my broadheads group with field points out to 120...

Pull my finger....

 

[Billy Goat]

Hey my broadheads group with field points out to 120...

Pull my finger....

I'm not saying they can't be pretty close. Just saying that when you buy it thinking it will you might be in trouble, takes a little work. Just like a sight tape.

 

[gelton]

Just an update here after realizing how silly my comments were on sighting in the Spott Hogg slider tape vs Black Golds FPS method.

It didn't hit me until last night when I finished sighting in through 60 and found my tape....I took a caliper and measured the distance from 20-60 and that distance would have been the 246 fps sight tape with Black Gold.

At first, I was freaking out because I am fairly certain this bow shoots between 270-280 fps with my current setup...I haven't chronoed it yet because I haven't got around to it and then it donned on me that my sight is about 3-4 inches further out than my previous bow.

The Black Gold sight tape method worked fairly well with my old bow and sight but there is no way that it would have worked with the Fast Eddie XL extended almost all the way out, it would have been way off.

 

[CB4]

At first, I was freaking out because I am fairly certain this bow shoots between 270-280 fps with my current setup...I haven't chronoed it yet because I haven't got around to it and then it donned on me that my sight is about 3-4 inches further out than my previous bow.

The Black Gold sight tape method worked fairly well with my old bow and sight but there is no way that it would have worked with the Fast Eddie XL extended almost all the way out, it would have been way off.

You just found the fault with black golds method and why archers advantage asks for more info than just FPS.