Sights are maxed out to the left

Jauwater

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I'm noticing that all of my sights are maxed out to the left. I'm a right handed shooter, shooting a hinge release. All 3 bows are paper tuned, and broadhead tuned. I'm happy with the results of each bow, but I'd be curious to see if this is something I could correct. A couple options I've pondered are DL, and eye dominance. But I'm currently wondering if it could be a form issue. I feel like my front arm position, and grip, are good. I'm curious if it's a back arm adjustment that could straighten me out better.

For anyone in the know, is there a known to be back arm adjustment that brings the shot in for a right hand shooter? Like by picking the elbow up, back, or forward?

I've researched alot about this, but haven't came up with much. Thanks in advance

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gumbl3

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Nov 27, 2016
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I had strings changed this last time and took the bow over to the range to get it close so I wouldn't lose arrows.. Went as far left as the sight would allow and still wasn't within 8" of center. Guy at the counter kept telling me it was my form. Turns out the sight had 3 positions but I had to loosen a screw and moved the whole sight, then I got a whole new range to dial through. I felt like a dummy
 
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With how the bow is tuned, what is your center shot at? Have you shimmed your cams? Sounds to me like you need to shim your cams in order to bring your rest in a bit and give yourself some more L adjustment in your sight.
 

fatlander

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Feb 11, 2016
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Man if your broadheads are flying with field points, be happy.

The above advice about shimming (or twisting yokes) to move your center shot isn’t wrong. But if you’re here asking this question, you probably should just be happy with what you’ve got if it’s flying good.


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NY12020

FNG
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Nov 23, 2021
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I'm noticing that all of my sights are maxed out to the left. I'm a right handed shooter, shooting a hinge release. All 3 bows are paper tuned, and broadhead tuned. I'm happy with the results of each bow, but I'd be curious to see if this is something I could correct. A couple options I've pondered are DL, and eye dominance. But I'm currently wondering if it could be a form issue. I feel like my front arm position, and grip, are good. I'm curious if it's a back arm adjustment that could straighten me out better.

For anyone in the know, is there a known to be back arm adjustment that brings the shot in for a right hand shooter? Like by picking the elbow up, back, or forward?

I've researched alot about this, but haven't came up with much. Thanks in advance

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What bow you shooting and is it a split limb model? If you shim those cams to the right; your arrow rest will need to move to the right; and your sight will follow. Shimming is a little bit of a pain; but once done you won't have to fool with it again. The nice thing about shimming is you can put your arrow rest (center shot) right down the middle. For this reason i prefer shimming over other tuning methods. If you are smack in the middle of archery season; you could leave it for now and address after the season is over.
 
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Jauwater

Jauwater

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Quick clarification. All three of my compound bow sights are maxed out to the left. This isn't just an issue with one particular bow, and this is what has me thinking it's a form issue. All three bows rests are set at manufacturer specs. Only one of the bows, Mathews V3, did I have to shim the cams. I shimmed those cams to the right to correct a paper tear. The other two have paper, and broadhead tuned perfectly since bringing them home from the shop. And although it's maxed left, it's right where it needs to be, I'm hitting bullseye. And I am happy with all three bows results. I had just been thinking that since I have three bows with all the sights maxed left that maybe I am doing something slightly incorrect in my form, maybe not. And thought maybe there was a common remedy that I wasnt aware of. I keep getting stuck on maybe draw length, but doing the math it all seems right. If this is something that never gets corrected than that's OK with me. Figured I'd pick yalls brain about it.

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So every rest is set to 13/16” center shot, you only shimmed cams on the one bow and they all paper tune and broadhead tune? Not saying you’re lying but I have a hard time believing that even the 2 unshimmed bows tune right down the center without having to move the rest at all for field point and broadhead…

Have you shot a bare shaft just to see what it does? Either impact point difference or through paper?
 
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All drop aways I'm going to guess?

I have had odd things happen with the alignment of things. Like my sight off to the left looking down the shaft while nocked and rest held up. Didn't seem to effect anything. But I haven't had sights maxed either.

My sight has always run to the left of my shaft. Use to bother me, ain't looked in a good while now.
 
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Jauwater

Jauwater

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So every rest is set to 13/16” center shot, you only shimmed cams on the one bow and they all paper tune and broadhead tune? Not saying you’re lying but I have a hard time believing that even the 2 unshimmed bows tune right down the center without having to move the rest at all for field point and broadhead…

Have you shot a bare shaft just to see what it does? Either impact point difference or through paper?
They all started at 13/16's, and rests have Micro adjusts, so they might not be at exactly 13/16's but the nitrum, and faktor came home at that setting, and have been Micro adjusted just clicks since. The V3 I've shimmed, and did similar tuning to the rest, very few micro clicks. So the V3 might be a slightly further right than the two hoyts. No barehsaft tuning. I have a small bow shop in my shed. I'm no technician, but im pretty sure the center shots on all bows are good at this point. Drop aways are timed correctly. I highly doubt this is a tuning issue as I have ran through everything several times, and everything checks out. I realize a form issue is hard to correct online, but like I said, I was kinda hoping someone might of had issue like this corrected. I have also already talked to the guys at the pro shop about it, and they didn't have much to offer.

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OR Archer

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If you’re running a dovetail sight and you have it extended all the way out you will naturally have it adjusted farther left due to the increased effect of riser torque. It’s common and doesn’t necessarily reflect a poorly tuned bow or bad form.
 
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Jauwater

Jauwater

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If you’re running a dovetail sight and you have it extended all the way out you will naturally have it adjusted farther left due to the increased effect of riser torque. It’s common and doesn’t necessarily reflect a poorly tuned bow or bad form.
Hmm, well that is interesting! All my bows have dovetail sights, and all are extended. This is something I haven't heard before. I'm gonna give this a try, and move a sight closer. If thats all it ends up being then I'll be happy. Thanks for the info

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Jauwater

Jauwater

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im a newer archer, but form and incorrect arrow spine for your bow can have you scratching your head at extremes like a sight or center shot only tuning way off. It did for me.
This is something else I just started messing around with.

I've been shooting most of my life, but just the past 5 or 6 years really been trying to learn what I'm doing. I've been shooting in the 340-350 spine range, and just started messing with some arrows in the 300 spine. And shortened them 1". I have been pretty pleased with these arrows so far. Nowadays shooting 70lbs with a 28" draw, a couple years ago I was drawing at 65lbs. I'm probably gonna stick with the 300 spines for now. But I'm novice to all this. No clue what to do, just doing it.

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Hmm, well that is interesting! All my bows have dovetail sights, and all are extended. This is something I haven't heard before. I'm gonna give this a try, and move a sight closer. If thats all it ends up being then I'll be happy. Thanks for the info

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Look up torque tuning.

That's how I decide where to set the dovetail.
 
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Jauwater

Jauwater

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Look up torque tuning.

That's how I decide where to set the dovetail.
10-4, Imma look into it. Something else I've never heard of. As always man, thanks a bunch

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Torque tuning and arrow spine as mentioned above are both good things to check.

This isn’t a typical form issue but could be a form issue, just not something common. The only way we could help with that is with some good pictures of you shooting but even that can be hard to capture and correct online
 

OctoberGold

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Are you shooting with one, or both eyes open? Might be worth trying the opposite if you haven’t yet just to see if it has any impact.
 
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Jauwater

Jauwater

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Just read up a bit on torque tuning, and that is so interesting to me how someone could come up with this tuning method. I can't wait to give this a try tomorrow. Never even heard of this before.



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Jauwater

Jauwater

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Are you shooting with one, or both eyes open? Might be worth trying the opposite if you haven’t yet just to see if it has any impact.
I shoot with both eyes open. I haven't went down this path yet, but it is something I plan to give a try. Doing the opposite that is. I was thinking about getting an eye patch, and shooting a good bit on a calm day.

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cvanman

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My Hogg father allowed me to move the scope housing to the right or left side of the slider mount. If you're moving too much One Direction you can swap sides on the slider mouth with your scope housing and gained quite a bit of throw on your gang adjustment
 
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