Sights are maxed out to the left

[Samdemarais]

Hmm, well that is interesting! All my bows have dovetail sights, and all are extended. This is something I haven't heard before. I'm gonna give this a try, and move a sight closer. If thats all it ends up being then I'll be happy. Thanks for the info

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Are you left or right eye dominant? What sight do you shoot.

 

[MattB]

No offense, but it sounds like you are creating an issue where none exists. Some people's form/grip are such that it tests the adjustment of some equipment. Unless you want to fix you, I would leave it the F alone and go shoot.

 

[Jauwater]

Are you left or right eye dominant? What sight do you shoot.

Right eye dominant, I believe. Right now I have two Spot Hogg Hogg it sights, both 5 pin sights. The spot hoggs aren't the newer version what they call the MRT which have the updated housing. And a Rocky Mountain Single Pin. Just ordered a HHA Tetra Tournament. May be a couple weeks.before I get that one though.

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[Jauwater]

No offense, but it sounds like you are creating an issue where none exists. Some people's form/grip are such that it tests the adjustment of some equipment. Unless you want to fix you, I would leave it the F alone and go shoot.

None taken. Overall this sight deal isn't a huge deal to me. But if it is something that could be corrected I dont mind trying. All I gotta do is step out my door to shoot. So stepping outside, and trying a few different ideas people are giving doesn't take much time for me to give it a try. Even if it does take me days of shooting, I still don't mind. It may very well be nothing, and maybe I'm looking to far into it. If it ends up not being corrected then no worries on my end.

I guess what it comes down to for me is that I know I have bad form. Some things I have been able to correct over the years, but some other aspects, like my grip, is something I still have to really focus on every shot. What help me with my grip was reading a post which a guy said to curl your pinky, ring, and middle finger into your palm while you grip the bow. This is what I do now, and it works good for me. Alot of times that I've reached out on here the remedy for my issue was something that simple. I was hoping, that if this was a issue, that there would be a simple fix like that. Obviously it's looking like that was wishful thinking.

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[NY12020]

I don't think the issue is your form; especially since you have successfully broadhead tuned. These split limb bows are VERY sensitive to relative limb deflections. All the forces generated during the draw and the shot come from the limbs...and each limb; although the same nominal size; has an actual measured deflection associated with it; and typically all 4 are different (and they need to be). The manufacturer determines based on the bows geometry where the stiffest limb of the 4 needs to be; 2nd stiffest, etc., etc. Reason for this is that cams are not symmetrical with the string and cables right in the middle; the cables are on one side and the string is on the other. And the cable guard applies side pressure to the cables and hence the cams.

So what does this all mean? It means that for each bow; the limbs have to be sequenced in a specific manner; and the relative deflections (differences between left and right) need to be a specific target. Since it would be impossible to manufacture and put the exact same limb in the exact same spot on every single bow; a range is specified. So as long as the bow is assembled with relative deflections that are within the specified range; they are considered in spec. BUT; each one is different.

So take 2 identical bows and look at limb deflections; Bow1 has limbs TL-142; TR-147, BL-144-146; and Bow 2 has TL-142,; TR-149, BL-144-; BR-147. Factory spread range is 5-7 on top and 2-3 on bottom. So Bow 1 is 5 top and 2 bottom; Bow2 is 7 top and 3 bottom. Both in spec.

This is where the bows start to differ; as far as why one bow tunes right down the middle and the next one has the arrow rest and sight maxed out to the left. Bow2 is much stiffer on the right side than Bow1; and is going to tune with the arrow rest more to the left than Bow1. So how does one fix this? By moving the cams on Bow2 towards to right; so as to redistribute the forces to compensate for the stiffer limbs. Or you could rearrange the limbs into a different sequence. Usually with these split limb bows; tuning with the arrow rest only works if its very close to start with. If not; you end up with the rest way off center to get a tune; which causes the issue with the sight.

I'm not saying that form, grip, etc. do not play a part...they do. BUT the limbs control all and will usually override all else if they are not sequenced correctly or if the deflection spreads (left to right) are not ideal. This was not nearly as big a deal in the past; because bow limbs were one piece solid with hardly no space between the cam and the limbs. Just grab hold of a cam on an older bow and try to twist it...VERY hard to do. Grab hold of the cam on you Faktor and force it to lean...you will see that it takes hardly no force at all; you can make it lean with just 2 fingers and about 1lb of force. This is why the limb deflections play such a big part of tuning on a split limb bow. If you shim that bow you can bring that arrow rest over. Hope this helps.

 

[Jauwater]

I don't think the issue is your form; especially since you have successfully broadhead tuned. These split limb bows are VERY sensitive to relative limb deflections. All the forces generated during the draw and the shot come from the limbs...and each limb; although the same nominal size; has an actual measured deflection associated with it; and typically all 4 are different (and they need to be). The manufacturer determines based on the bows geometry where the stiffest limb of the 4 needs to be; 2nd stiffest, etc., etc. Reason for this is that cams are not symmetrical with the string and cables right in the middle; the cables are on one side and the string is on the other. And the cable guard applies side pressure to the cables and hence the cams.

So what does this all mean? It means that for each bow; the limbs have to be sequenced in a specific manner; and the relative deflections (differences between left and right) need to be a specific target. Since it would be impossible to manufacture and put the exact same limb in the exact same spot on every single bow; a range is specified. So as long as the bow is assembled with relative deflections that are within the specified range; they are considered in spec. BUT; each one is different.

So take 2 identical bows and look at limb deflections; Bow1 has limbs TL-142; TR-147, BL-144-146; and Bow 2 has TL-142,; TR-149, BL-144-; BR-147. Factory spread range is 5-7 on top and 2-3 on bottom. So Bow 1 is 5 top and 2 bottom; Bow2 is 7 top and 3 bottom. Both in spec.

This is where the bows start to differ; as far as why one bow tunes right down the middle and the next one has the arrow rest and sight maxed out to the left. Bow2 is much stiffer on the right side than Bow1; and is going to tune with the arrow rest more to the left than Bow1. So how does one fix this? By moving the cams on Bow2 towards to right; so as to redistribute the forces to compensate for the stiffer limbs. Or you could rearrange the limbs into a different sequence. Usually with these split limb bows; tuning with the arrow rest only works if its very close to start with. If not; you end up with the rest way off center to get a tune; which causes the issue with the sight.

I'm not saying that form, grip, etc. do not play a part...they do. BUT the limbs control all and will usually override all else if they are not sequenced correctly or if the deflection spreads (left to right) are not ideal. This was not nearly as big a deal in the past; because bow limbs were one piece solid with hardly no space between the cam and the limbs. Just grab hold of a cam on an older bow and try to twist it...VERY hard to do. Grab hold of the cam on you Faktor and force it to lean...you will see that it takes hardly no force at all; you can make it lean with just 2 fingers and about 1lb of force. This is why the limb deflections play such a big part of tuning on a split limb bow. If you shim that bow you can bring that arrow rest over. Hope this helps.

Wow, that is something else I am completely ignorant of, but rhats something else I'll have to learn about. Having someone explain it makes some sense. I'll have to do a bit more research before I dive I to that. Thanks alot though for the info

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[Samdemarais]

Right eye dominant, I believe. Right now I have two Spot Hogg Hogg it sights, both 5 pin sights. The spot hoggs aren't the newer version what they call the MRT which have the updated housing. And a Rocky Mountain Single Pin. Just ordered a HHA Tetra Tournament. May be a couple weeks.before I get that one though.

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So on the spott Hogg sights you can change the orientation of the L bracket that attaches the sight housing to the sight. This will move everything over 1/8” or so.

 

[MattB]

So on the spott Hogg sights you can change the orientation of the L bracket that attaches the sight housing to the sight. This will move everything over 1/8” or so.

Good point, and to add: with my Spot Hogg sights on Hoyt bows, I have always been right in that narrow window where my pins end up right at the end of travel when the block is moved to either side. That is a common enough occurrence that SH sells a spacer plate that is added between the sight base and riser to allow the pins to line up more in the middle of the adjustment range. Needing a spacer isn't an indication that anything is wrong per se.

 

[Jauwater]

So on the spott Hogg sights you can change the orientation of the L bracket that attaches the sight housing to the sight. This will move everything over 1/8” or so.

Thanks for that info I had someone else mention this to me a few weeks ago, and totally forgot.

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[Jauwater]

Works gonna run late tonight, but imma start running through all the advice hopefully tomorrow, and I'll make sure to share the results good or bad. May take a week or two, but I'll be in touch. Thanks alot guys for all the advice

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