Silnylon VS Silpoly

[nednic]

Hey guys, would like to make a rain cover, meat bag (large dry bag to drop all of the breathable meat bags into for transport) and also some small pull-out bags/dry bags for gear in the pack. I'm looking for some guidance on material selection. The three man materials I am considering are 1.1 Silnylon PU coated, 1.1 Silpoly and 1.1 Silpoly PU400.

From what I've read, the poly's are more waterproof, but not as tuff. I have no experience with any of these materials so I am not aware if the margin is significant between the different options, or if it is marginal and I am just splitting hairs at this point... Advise welcome!

Thanks!

 

[hereinaz]

For meat drybag, I might go with Dyneema or one of the other membrane laminates and tape the seams. Silnylon and silpoly aren't waterproof like that, IMO to put meat in and not get some leakage.

Durability is the thing with pack cover, but less with pullouts, so default to strength, IMO.

 

[nednic]

For meat drybag, I might go with Dyneema or one of the other membrane laminates and tape the seams. Silnylon and silpoly aren't waterproof like that, IMO to put meat in and not get some leakage.

Durability is the thing with pack cover, but less with pullouts, so default to strength, IMO.

Thanks for the feedback, so you would stick with silnylon for the rain cover?

 

[ghost338]

IMO, not a lot of difference between the nylon and poly of the same weight. I've used both for various projects (not meat bags however) and they both worked. Because I'm primarily in a wet environment I went with the PU4000. No complaints about durability on the rain cover.

 

[hereinaz]

Thanks for the feedback, so you would stick with silnylon for the rain cover?

Yeah, it won't matter really between them.

 

[nednic]

IMO, not a lot of difference between the nylon and poly of the same weight. I've used both for various projects (not meat bags however) and they both worked. Because I'm primarily in a wet environment I went with the PU4000. No complaints about durability on the rain cover.

Good to know. What weight do you prefer to use?

 

[ghost338]

1.1 oz for most uses. 1.6 oz HyperD is nice too if you like the diamond grid shape. At the end of the day it's going to come down to your preference. I started to get a feel for what I liked after sewing a few projects.

 

[hereinaz]

1.1 oz for most uses. 1.6 oz HyperD is nice too if you like the diamond grid shape. At the end of the day it's going to come down to your preference. I started to get a feel for what I liked after sewing a few projects.

1.1 for inside the pack and heavier for stuff outside.

 

[spudgunr]

For meat drybag, I might go with Dyneema or one of the other membrane laminates and tape the seams. Silnylon and silpoly aren't waterproof like that, IMO to put meat in and not get some leakage.

Durability is the thing with pack cover, but less with pullouts, so default to strength, IMO.

Wouldnt the PU coating on two of the listed options make it pretty well waterproof? Assuming its the actual PU coating with 3000-4000mm rating and not the PU/sil mix at 1500-2000mm rating.

 

[Flydaho]

I sewed up a meat bag (similar to the Stone Glacier Load Cell) using 1.9 oz PU Coated Silnylon and it turned out great. It's very durable and the PU coating keeps the meat dry against the elements. Something to consider: the amount of material used to make the load cell is only about 1 yard, so going from 1.9 oz to 1.1 oz will save you less than an ounce of weight, but the 1.9 oz material is significantly more durable.

https://ripstopbytheroll.com/collec...z-pu-coated-ripstop-nylon?variant=30476599629

For the pull-out bags, 1.1oz material works great. I suggest using grosgrain to finishing the inside seams, otherwise the cut ends of the fabric will want to come apart (same goes for the meat bag, or any other seams where the fabric edges are exposed)

 

[cronsman]

Thanks for this thread, helped me on some upcoming projects

 

[nednic]

I sewed up a meat bag (similar to the Stone Glacier Load Cell) using 1.9 oz PU Coated Silnylon and it turned out great. It's very durable and the PU coating keeps the meat dry against the elements. Something to consider: the amount of material used to make the load cell is only about 1 yard, so going from 1.9 oz to 1.1 oz will save you less than an ounce of weight, but the 1.9 oz material is significantly more durable.

https://ripstopbytheroll.com/collec...z-pu-coated-ripstop-nylon?variant=30476599629

For the pull-out bags, 1.1oz material works great. I suggest using grosgrain to finishing the inside seams, otherwise the cut ends of the fabric will want to come apart (same goes for the meat bag, or any other seams where the fabric edges are exposed)

This was exactly the feedback I was looking for, thank you for sharing!

 

[flyingshocker]

I second ripstopbytberoll, it’s cheap enough, order both and see what you like better. There’s a bit of a learning curve to sewing that stuff. I found that tissue paper backing was absolutely necessary to get it to feed correctly.

 

[Flydaho]

flyingshocker is right, there is a learning curve to sewing silpoly and silnylon. One thing that can help is to use basting tape (double sided tape) that holds the two pieces of fabric together while you sew. You just sew through the basting tape and it stays in place (no harm in leaving it in the seam).

Seamstick 3/8" Basting Tape for Sailmaking & Vinyl (50 yds.)

DetailsThis is a double-sided mylar film with acrylic adhesive that bonds well on smooth Dacron® sailcloth, nylon and vinyl. It is strong, neat and nearly invisible. Use basting tape instead of pins on projects for more accurate, even hems and water-resistant seams. Basting tapes are left...

www.sailrite.com

Another thing that helps, if you are not using basting tape, is to stretch the fabric ever so slightly as you sew it. stretch it in the direction of the seam by holding the fabric in front of the presser foot in one hand, and behind the presser foot in the other hand (pinching it between your thumb and index fingers) and stretching it just slightly. As you sew, keep the material under tension and guide it through the machine. You only get about 6 to 8-inches at a time before you have to reset your hands, but it helps feed the top and bottom pieces through at the same rate.