Single bevel grizzly sharpening

[Cheechako]

I have a batch of 185 grain grizzly single Bevel broad heads on my hunting arrows and haven’t been able to get them truly hunting sharp yet despite months of trying. I’ve tried using sharpie on the blade to
Make sure the angle etc is good and have used a work sharp field sharpener as well as a worksharp precision adjust.
My problem has been getting a good burr. I have a good idea on how to strop
and hone from there. I’ve also tried file sharpening on my practice heads and don’t have the touch for free hand.

Does anyone have any advice for how to establish a good consistent blade angle and get a burr going?

Thanks for your help.

 

[TaterTot]

I use a lansky sharpening system. Piece of cake. I can get everything from single bevels, double bevel, and kitchen knives sharp enough to slice through a sheet of paper like it's not there. Youtube had plenty of sharpening tutorials.

 

[oldgoat]

How much pressure are you using? I see a lot of guys press too hard, let the abrasives do the work.

 

[mattflint]

I used a 300 grit diamond plate til I had an even bevel+plus big ol burr.flipped layed it down as low as possible a couple strokes. Then pulled through a piece of oak to remove burr. This one I polished on bass wood with diamond emulsion. Jnats put a decent finish on em too.
I really like these heads
You may want/need to clean up the back side to feel the burr?

 

[mattflint]

I used the ruixin to clean up the grind

 

[TaterTot]

I think lots of guys have trouble getting the bevel angle established. It can take a lot of work to get everything even on some heads

For example, I'm using bear razor heads this year. They have about a 21 to 22ish degree bevel. I cut them down to 20 degrees. Zwickeys are some of the worst I've ever seen for inconsistent bevel angles. They always are different from one side to the other and the reinforced tip is always different than the rest of the broadhead. Garbage. I use mine for shooting at chickens and practice shots from my tree.

 

[TaterTot]

Oh I forgot. To get a razor edge you also need to strope. Very little pressure is needed. Leather or wood will work well for this purpose.

Edited, spelling

 

[Cheechako]

These grizzlies seem to have come with a pretty inconsistent bevel that I’ve just made worse playing with different systems. Most now have at last two angles on the blade ie a 25 and a 30 closer to the actual edge. I’ve been trying to reshape them and have probably been putting too much pressure on there.
I think there is definitely something to cleaning up the back though. I’ll definitely give that a try.

 

[oldgoat]

Micro bevel on the back side is what I do, still have to get a burr first though!

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

I use the Grizzly Kodiaks (Same head but larger) and they are a real pain to sharpen in the beginning for sure. What’s worked best for me is the work sharp belt sharpener. I freehand it with the red belt and actually put a steeper angle on it than the factory one. That’s the only way I can get a good burr that I can jut snap off the other side. They seem to ding up less with that steeper angle too.

 

[Tradchef]

I use my water stones that I use for my single bevel chef knives and it works great.

 

[ledflight]

I don't do grizzly but for single bevel I have found this method works for me. I do it with Van Diemans.

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[Kevin Dill]

Trying to explain sharpening is like making a pie. You can put up the recipe but there's still a lot technique and fine points needed to get it right. And typically the first several attempts are disappointing. I would think YouTube is the place to find detailed video instruction on sharpening a single bevel blade.

Definitely the back side of the blade needs some attention later in the process. Extremely light pressure (at the end of sharpening) is a key to getting a razor edge. Stropping with leather and stropping compound is great, but no serious pressure is needed. Go extremely light the last several strokes. I've also stropped on plain brown cardboard which can do a nice job.

 

[TaterTot]

Trying to explain sharpening is like making a pie. You can put up the recipe but there's still a lot technique and fine points needed to get it right. And typically the first several attempts are disappointing. I would think YouTube is the place to find detailed video instruction on sharpening a single bevel blade.

Definitely the back side of the blade needs some attention later in the process. Extremely light pressure (at the end of sharpening) is a key to getting a razor edge. Stropping with leather and stropping compound is great, but no serious pressure is needed. Go extremely light the last several strokes. I've also stropped on plain brown cardboard which can do a nice job.

Good denim jeans will work in a pinch as well.

 

[Beendare]

Del
.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

It’s an art for sure, and I’m a finger painter.

 

[TaterTot]

I think a lot of people who have problems sharpening are rushing. It can be frustrating at first when cutting the initial angle because it feels like you aren't getting anywhere.

 

[oldgoat]

I think a lot of people who have problems sharpening are rushing. It can be frustrating at first when cutting the initial angle because it feels like you aren't getting anywhere.

And that's when the pressure gets applied and things start twisting and bevels start shifting and then you are a long ways off from the target you were getting close too!

 

[Kevin Dill]

Precision Adjust™ Elite Knife Sharpener

A complete sharpening system, delivering precision and repeatability with seven abrasive grits and angles from 15°-30°. The elite kit includes more grit options for optimal sharpening.

www.worksharptools.com

A bit pricey, but I think this is a rig which would do a great job on knives and broadheads, including single-bevel heads. I'm a big believer in the Work Sharp brand....superior products.