So, how light can a Kimber Hunter be? A build thread.

BigWoods

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It’s not going great but not poorly either. I can’t find a front one that looks like it’d fit flush, but that one is super light anyway. I got a titanium one from ti64.com for the rear screw. Though, it may be a hair short. I got a 7/8” long one, may have to try a 1”. Forgive dirty scale lol.

View attachment 254626 View attachment 254627
So the stock front Kimber screw also works on the back...it just doesn't have the shank to fill the hole. You might be able to call Kimber and get them to send you one for not too much (ask me how I know 😁).

Cheers!
 

petespistol

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I measured the action screws as .9" to the bottom of the head so it probably means buying an 1" and grinding it down. Not sure how hard titanium is to cut but a grinder will probably work. What size/pitch did you buy? My thread gauge didn't seem to have the right pitch.
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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I measured the action screws as .9" to the bottom of the head so it probably means buying an 1" and grinding it down. Not sure how hard titanium is to cut but a grinder will probably work. What size/pitch did you buy? My thread gauge didn't seem to have the right pitch.

1/4-28 seems pretty standard and I verified the thread pitch worked yesterday. Had a Bergara apart and it accepted the Kimber screws and the new titanium screw. I had gotten about 0.89” on my measurement and 7/8” is 0.875” so I was just trying it. Should have ordered both but yeah I had concerns about trying to shorten one that is too long without boogering it up. I have a grinder but not a machine shop.
 

Adam Gibbs

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How did you get the cap off the grip? I was able to get all the gel out of my stock except in the grip area. My cap doesn't seem to want to budge without probably damaging it.

I love mine. It's a 6.5, I put a Leupold 3.5-10x40 on it in DNZ mounts. Comes in just a hair over 6 pounds and its very accurate. One thing I want to do is stiffen up the stock a little bit. It does have some flex to it. I might channel out the ribs in the fore end and epoxy a carbon arrow into there.
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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How did you get the cap off the grip? I was able to get all the gel out of my stock except in the grip area. My cap doesn't seem to want to budge without probably damaging it.

I love mine. It's a 6.5, I put a Leupold 3.5-10x40 on it in DNZ mounts. Comes in just a hair over 6 pounds and its very accurate. One thing I want to do is stiffen up the stock a little bit. It does have some flex to it. I might channel out the ribs in the fore end and epoxy a carbon arrow into there.

Mine popped off with a little force by putting the tip of a flat head screw driver in the gap between the cap and the grip and twisting the screwdriver. I wasn't worried about scratching it since I was painting it anyway.
 

BigWoods

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How did you get the cap off the grip? I was able to get all the gel out of my stock except in the grip area. My cap doesn't seem to want to budge without probably damaging it.

I love mine. It's a 6.5, I put a Leupold 3.5-10x40 on it in DNZ mounts. Comes in just a hair over 6 pounds and its very accurate. One thing I want to do is stiffen up the stock a little bit. It does have some flex to it. I might channel out the ribs in the fore end and epoxy a carbon arrow into there.
Gently working around it with a screw driver did the trick...there are a couple nicks from doing so, but it went right back on and stayed put with Gorilla Superglue
 

petespistol

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Mine took more force than I wanted. I was trying to be really careful so I wouldn't ding it up and I tried a putty knife, an xacto, but finally it took really jabbing it with a flathead screwdriver. Careful to not jam yourself with a flying blade when it finally breaks free. The cap doesn't have much of a rim inside the grip it is very shallow and glued on, so it might be possible to slice through with a razor. Or just clean up the gouges with a razor after popping it off with a flathead. cap.jpg
 

petespistol

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Worth it though. I took out another 2 ounces in the grip. I found it really easy to pull it out. I poured in a splash of rubbing alcohol and slid a butter knife between the stock and the goo. I slide the butter knife around the edges twisting it so the rubbing alcohol would flow and then I took a 8" lag bolt and screwed it into the goo. And pulled it out with a pair of pliers. Took all of 5 minutes. Getting the cap off the pistol grip was the hardest part. IMG_6923.jpg
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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Well well well

Had a package from JES today.

Threw the action into the stock at lunch, will put it all together tonight.

This is with a homemade sling, Spartan bipod/tripod adapter, shortened rear sling stud, titanium rear action screw, gel removed from stock and grip, fore-end shortened 3-1/8" and the remolded using JB plastic weld, granite paint, 16.5" barrel, TI Ascent bolt handle, Loopy 2.5x20 with Alumina obj cap in Talleys, and a mag full of 200gr Winchester soft points.

And yes my pool table/hunting season work bench is filthy.







Think I'll sew the straps on the sling so I can ditch the ladder locks.
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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Very nice. The stock proportion looks
perfect with that 16.5” barrel.

Thanks, I am really surprised how "normal" it looks with such a short barrel. Still plenty of hand space too, my natural hold has the front of the magazine/front action screw over the rear pad of my palm.
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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Nice work! Did you make the $1500?

Yes sir

Rifle - $731 shipped
Scope + Alumina Cap- $294 shipped
Rings - $41 shipped
JES Rebore Work - $300 + $27 Shipping to JES
Sling - $10 for swivels, had everything else
TI Action Screw - $16 shipped (shipping charge is ridiculous on that)
TI Bolt Knob - $75 shipped

So that's $1494 on the dot.

I already had an extra Spartan adapter, so I didn't include it, and factory Winchester ammo is $35/box at Target Sports USA, $120 for 3 boxes with shipping. About the cheapest thing you can shoot these days ha. I guess if you add those 3 rounds, since they are sitting on the scale, I'm at $1500 exactly ha.
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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Also, for information sake, taking the 243 barreled action and chopping it from 22" to 16.5" and reboring it to 358 Win took off exactly 8.7 oz.

Fluting could shave some more weight, but I don't think I'm going to do that, for now ha.
 

BigWoods

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Well well well

Had a package from JES today.

Threw the action into the stock at lunch, will put it all together tonight.

This is with a homemade sling, Spartan bipod/tripod adapter, shortened rear sling stud, titanium rear action screw, gel removed from stock and grip, fore-end shortened 3-1/8" and the remolded using JB plastic weld, granite paint, 16.5" barrel, TI Ascent bolt handle, Loopy 2.5x20 with Alumina obj cap in Talleys, and a mag full of 200gr Winchester soft points.

And yes my pool table/hunting season work bench is filthy.







Think I'll sew the straps on the sling so I can ditch the ladder locks.
Very impressed! Now let us know how that thumps. My 6.5 Creed with the iron sights at 5lbs is very manageable but a fair bit more stout than scoped.

I'm thinking that your bare rifle must come in under 4.5lbs now?
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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Very impressed! Now let us now how that thumps. My 6.5 Creed with the iron sights at 5lbs is very manageable but a fair bit more stout than scoped.

I'm thinking that your bare rifle must come in under 4.5lbs now?

Let’s see, the scope is 6.8 oz with cover, sling is 1.9 oz, rings are 2 oz, 3 rounds are 2.85 oz so yeah it’d 4 lbs 7 oz flat. Replace the Spartan adapter with a regular stud and lose another 0.4 oz.
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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Here is naked rifle, no ammo, no sling, but with the Spartan adapter on. So I guess closer to 4 lbs 6 oz with normal sling stud.

C7428216-5A41-451D-87D4-1581C1BF5BD6.jpeg
 
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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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Just figured out I had a slightly heavier pair of rings set out for a Rem 700 30mm medium, the 1” Kimber lows will be a touch lighter. 5.25 lbs loaded may yet be achieved.
 
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