So you want to shoot Trad

24on48hunting

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One of the best resources to use without breaking the bank is to join a traditional archery club. There will be folks tripping over each other to help a new archer out. My dues for the club I joined are only $25 each year and there’s several shoots, plus several hunts held each season.
Attend some of their shoots and have fun! Once you get form and consistency down pat, then focus on accuracy. Don’t rush it or overthink it.
When you shoot, don’t stand there and shoot all of your arrows, shoot one arrow, then pull it from the target. Walk back and shoot that same arrow again. It gives you time to rest, gather your thoughts and focus on your next shot.
 
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Beendare

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Add this one to the knowledge base, its very good.

This is a good example of a avg shooter getting his form diagnosed by a top notch coach.

 

TaterTot

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Add this one to the knowledge base, its very good.

This is a good example of a avg shooter getting his form diagnosed by a top notch coach.


This highlights what I was saying. You can watch all the videos you want. Unless you have someone watch you shoot and point out the small things you're doing wrong you will most likely struggle with what should be an easily correctable problem. Not only that but you will compound the issue by committing the wrong way to do it to muscle memory.
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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This highlights what I was saying. You can watch all the videos you want. Unless you have someone watch you shoot and point out the small things you're doing wrong you will most likely struggle with what should be an easily correctable problem. Not only that but you will compound the issue by committing the wrong way to do it to muscle memory.
We get your point Tater- a coach is better…..

…But saying there is no good free internet resources is not accurate.



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Wilderlife

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There isn't much in the way of trad archery coaches in Australia, let alone my little patch in Australia. Best thing for me is doing Tom Clum's course and then sending him videos every now and then on instagram for critique. He always watches them and gives me a few more things to work on. From the other side of the world that's about as good as it gets. If I ever get over to America I'd love to drop in to RMS gear to do a lesson and check the shop out.

A bloke organised for Clum to come to Australia and do a weekend clinic. I'd paid up and two weeks before he came over the world went into COVID lockdown. That's the way it goes I guess.
 

sneaky

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Timely that Rod Jenkins was just on Kifarucast again. He's a great coach and explains his system well.

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Seeknelk

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So as a person who has never really tried a trad setup and has been looking at them it appears that the Hoyt Satori would be a great place to start. I say that given the amount of options for setup and tuning that it has. However, it doesn’t seem to be as popular as more expensive bows that aren’t as easily tuned (at least in my novice opinion). Is there a reason for this that I don’t see? Thanks for the input ahead of time, I’m just here to learn something :)
Yes, the satori is a solid rig. It has what is called ilf limb attatchment. So you can use any brand of ilf limbs. You can change grips also if you do t like it. That the beauty of metal ilf rig . So modular and adjustable that you can learn what you really like and fits you. Now you certainly don't need one as high end as the Hoyt or border tempest but if you want to try one go for it. Then you have an excellent base to try different limbs on for life
I'd suggest getting the 19 or 21 inch riser and a set of 25-40# pound cheaper target ilf limb from sammick or something. A phone call to lancaster would be the best thing ever in your shoes.
 

roosiebull

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ALL; Post up any of the free internet resources to improve your shooting you like.

I think the video series at 3 rivers, "Masters of the Barebow" #1 and #3 are a great resource with top pros breaking down the components of a shot....and breaking down the different aiming techniques.


Most of these guys I'm recommending on Youtube have multiple good vids in addition to the ones here;
Arne Moe
this is a great video.... long, but some excellent info. great idea for a thread too Beendare!

 
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bisblue

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A lot of guys like Tom Clum who sells a shooting clinic........I personally haven't watched any of his stuff
I'm a newer trad shooter. Buying the Tom Klum course is the best archery money I've ever spent.

There is some amazing free stuff, but having a single course that goes through every aspect, gets updated, he will respond to your comments, and is lifetime membership. Hard to beat.

When I jumped back to my compound, it took a couple targets, then I shot better than ever. Form is so helpful for any type of archery.
 
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Beendare

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How do I select the right arrow spine?

When your trad bow can shoot a bareshaft in the same grouping as your fletched arrows then you know it’s tuned And that you have good form. What this tuning does is makes the bow quieter, more forgiving and more accurate.

in the beginning it’s best not to worry about arrow spine but instead concentrate on your form. You cannot get consistent bareshaft indications when your form is erratic. Down the road, It’s a good exercise once you do have a tuned bow/arrow combo to continue to shoot bareshafts as these will indicate form errors in a tuned set up.

The Stu Miller and 3 Rivers calculators will get you close on spine assuming dead nuts accurate data entry- you have to measure everything. Example: a 1/6” error in strike plate makes a big difference. I an guilty of not measuring accurately myself.

STU MILLER CALC HERE
Orherwise you can order one or two arrows of different spines from some suppliers, Lancaster is one. It’s best to start long and then cut the arrow down in small increments until it bare shafts perfectly. I don’t even fletch them now but instead bareshaft a test Arrow first.

Its crazy how well feathers can make a poorly tuned arrow fly well, thus bareshafting is essential. If your bow shoots a bareshaft straight, then it will shoot your broad heads to the same point as your field points. Its best to start close to the target-like 5 yds in case those arrows are way off spine. I look at where the shaft strikes the target in relation to fletched arrows and dont worry if its at a slight angle Nok R-L-up or down some of that can be target material related. . Some guys want those arrows in the target perfectly straight, more power to them. .

Bareshaft location in relation to fletched arrows is a good way to dial in your perfect nokking height. High- raise nokking point, Low is opposite.

Another option: Some guys shoot BHs with their field points and compare groups tuning that way. I do this in my compound but I think its a finer tune in a trad bow with a bare shaft.

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oldgoat

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How do I select the right arrow spine?

When your trad bow can shoot a bareshaft in the same grouping as your fletched arrows then you know it’s tuned And that you have good form. What this tuning does is makes the bow quieter, more forgiving and more accurate.

in the beginning it’s best not to worry about arrow spine but instead concentrate on your form. You cannot get consistent bareshaft indications when your form is erratic. Down the road, It’s a good exercise once you do have a tuned bow/arrow combo to continue to shoot bareshafts as these will indicate form errors in a tuned set up.

The Stu Miller and 3 Rivers calculators will get you close on spine assuming dead nuts accurate data entry- you have to measure everything. Example: a 1/6” error in strike plate makes a big difference. I an guilty of not measuring accurately myself.

STU MILLER CALC HERE
Orherwise you can order one or two arrows of different spines from some suppliers, Lancaster is one. It’s best to start long and then cut the arrow down in small increments until it bare shafts perfectly. I don’t even fletch them now but instead bareshaft a test Arrow first.

Its crazy how well feathers can make a poorly tuned arrow fly well, thus bareshafting is essential. If your bow shoots a bareshaft straight, then it will shoot your broad heads to the same point as your field points. Its best to start close to the target-like 5 yds in case those arrows are way off spine. I look at where the shaft strikes the target in relation to fletched arrows and dont worry if its at a slight angle Nok R-L-up or down some of that can be target material related. . Some guys want those arrows in the target perfectly straight, more power to them. .

Bareshaft location in relation to fletched arrows is a good way to dial in your perfect nokking height. High- raise nokking point, Low is opposite.

Another option: Some guys shoot BHs with their field points and compare groups tuning that way. I do this in my compound but I think its a finer tune in a trad bow with a bare shaft.

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And don't sell off your old arrows when you get a new setup, I see guys selling off or wanting to trade arrows, at least keep one or two of each spine you buy over time so you have readily accessible arrows to try on new setups for tuning!
 
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Beendare

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3 under or Split finger? Tab or Glove? High anchor or low anchor?

Before you can answer these questions you need to decide what you are trying to get out of a trad bow.

3 under lends itself to shorter range shots - like hunting- but then on long shots such as a field round, you are aiming over the top of the target.

Split gives you a longer Point on and the draw is more aligned with the center Pivot of the bow itself- though that is not a big deal. (you can move the knock point a little to adjust for three under)

High anchor lets you shoot more like a shotgun typically giving you better short range accuracy (<30 yds or so) that is why most hunters choose a three under grip. A low anchor like the Olympic guys anchor under their chin is better suited to very long range shots- like the 70m target faces.

Tab or glove is personal preference. I think Rod Jenkins said it best with a glove, “ you are always breaking in a new one or wearing out an old one”. A cordovan tab is hard to beat for all factors but some prefer those hair tabs for a slightly smoother release.
 
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Beendare

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Longbow or Recurve or Other? Much debate.

No right or wrong answer here Though it can be debated ad nausea. Neither is more inherently more accurate- its the guy shooting it. All target guys chose a recurve for the slightly better performance, feel at full draw and the flexibility of using a rest and accessories.

As a general comment, any style Bow with a heavier riser section will feel more stable on the shot with less hand shock.

There are many categories with in a categories here.

Longbows; Hill style, ASL, R/D etc and all have a different feel. A long bow typically has a light riser section which can equate to significant hand shock in some cases like a Hill style with anything less than a very heavy arrow. You really have to shoot them to see the difference.

Recurves: Short Shrew style, Bear style all the way to metal riser and ILF 3 piece takedowns. The ILF system ( International limb fitting) lets you mix and match risers and limbs from different manufacturers. There are some incredible high performance options for ILF limbs.

Then there are some fantastic customs out there of every shape and style. Best advice for a beginner is to start cheap and light weight and along the way try a bunch of different bows.


 
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TaterTot

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This is why I don't like these threads and tell new shooters to avoid the forums.

The amount of stuff that's been dumped here has nothing to do with starting out. A new shooter shouldn't be worried about 3 under or split. They shouldn't be worried about the type of bow only the poundage. They shouldn't be worried about a glove or a tab or if it's made of the finest of udder leather from a Cambodian milk goat. They shouldn't even think of considering trying to tune arrows.

They should be focused solely on form.

Thats it.

None of the rest of this crap matters if you don't have your form dialed in.
 
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Btaylor

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This is why I don't like these threads and tell new shooters to avoid the forums.

The amount of stuff that's been dumped here has nothing to do with starting out. A new shooter shouldn't be worried about 3 under or split. They shouldn't be worried about the type of bow only the poundage. They shouldn't be worried about a glove or a tab or if it's made of the finest of udder leather from a Cambodian milk goat. They shouldn't even think of considering trying to tune arrows.

They should be focused solely on form.

Thats it.

None of the rest of this crap matters if you don't have your form dialed in.
How many humans do you know that work that way though? Most of us have to learn the hard way ;)
 

sneaky

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This is why I don't like these threads and tell new shooters to avoid the forums.

The amount of stuff that's been dumped here has nothing to do with starting out. A new shooter shouldn't be worried about 3 under or split. They shouldn't be worried about the type of bow only the poundage. They shouldn't be worried about a glove or a tab or if it's made of the finest of udder leather from a Cambodian milk goat. They shouldn't even think of considering trying to tune arrows.

They should be focused solely on form.

Thats it.

None of the rest of this crap matters if you don't have your form dialed in.
Ok, coach. Have a link to your form program? Seems you're getting yourself bent out of shape for nothing.

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TaterTot

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Ok, coach. Have a link to your form program? Seems you're getting yourself bent out of shape for nothing.

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Oh? How so? How is dumping useless info on a someone new to the sport helpful? I don't have a program I already outlined what someone new to the sport should do.

Step one: get a coach

Thats it.

If step one isn't something that you can make happen. Then try my alternate approach .

Step one: buy a video course like solid archery mechanics.

If 200 bucks is out of your reach then try my next alternate approach.

Step one: Buy a book like shooting the stick bow.

Thats it. Work on your form. Stay off the forums. Stay off youtube. You'll just wonder around getting nothing but conflicting information and getting lost.

The rest is all crap a newbie doesn't need.
 
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