Solvent trap form 1 or suppressor

Trapperkid

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I bought a ruger American ranch 5.56 a few days ago and I really want to run a suppressor on it and on my tikka t3x 243 and I was wondering if a form 1 solvent trap would work about as good as a real suppressor. Also I’d love to see some pics of your form 1 cans. Thanks
 
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You can make them extremely quiet. There is a lot of info out there. I don’t have any built. I’m still waiting on the stamps. Hopefully any day, it’s been almost a month since I submitted the F1.

There are a few places that make kits or you can piece it together. If you haven’t researched it much I suggest doing a lot of reading before buying parts or a kit. There are so many different ways to build a can and cup shape/size.
 

ericwh

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I have a form 1 that is light, quiet, and should last a very long time. It was not a kit but I made it from readily available items from various sources with a small amount of lathe/drill work.

There is a lot of form1 design/fab information available on other forums but it is not a popular topic on rokslide.
 

hereinaz

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For .223, a form one will work. It will be the fastest way into a suppressor now. But, buy a real one for the future and larger calibers.
 

ericwh

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Commercial suppressors are made from bored and clipped cones. The cones may be tig welded, eliminating the tube (which weighs about 6oz if for a 1.625x1.5x7.5" titanium), and depending on the individual this could be and is done on a form1 as well, but the materials and design are really not any different.

All materials and designs from a commercial suppressor can be replicated on a form 1 and most or all components to do so are readily available. I am not talking about an aluminum solvent trap kit or some sort of oil filter or anything monolithic.

There is no reason a form1 suppressor cannot equal or better the performance and durability of a commercial. These are straightforward and readily available designs and straightforward components made on a lathe. This is literally like saying you cannot assemble a barreled action from parts and equal the performance of a factory barreled action.

If you want a warranty, or if you aren't going to put the work into laying it out, sourcing quality components, and doing the machine work to make it right, if you can't deal with the extra 4-6oz for a tube (assuming you aren't going to tig weld it), or if you just prefer to, then buy a commercial can.

Again, there is tons of information and there is actual data, gathered with actual lab grade equipment, available but it is not on this forum.
 

hereinaz

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Commercial suppressors are made from bored and clipped cones. The cones may be tig welded, eliminating the tube (which weighs about 6oz if for a 1.625x1.5x7.5" titanium), and depending on the individual this could be and is done on a form1 as well, but the materials and design are really not any different.

All materials and designs from a commercial suppressor can be replicated on a form 1 and most or all components to do so are readily available. I am not talking about an aluminum solvent trap kit or some sort of oil filter or anything monolithic.

There is no reason a form1 suppressor cannot equal or better the performance and durability of a commercial. These are straightforward and readily available designs and straightforward components made on a lathe. This is literally like saying you cannot assemble a barreled action from parts and equal the performance of a factory barreled action.

If you want a warranty, or if you aren't going to put the work into laying it out, sourcing quality components, and doing the machine work to make it right, if you can't deal with the extra 4-6oz for a tube (assuming you aren't going to tig weld it), or if you just prefer to, then buy a commercial can.

Again, there is tons of information and there is actual data, gathered with actual lab grade equipment, available but it is not on this forum.
When I hear solvent trap build, I am not imagining someone tig welding... but, man if I could tig weld I would have more cans. If anything made me want to learn how, its that.
 
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Trapperkid

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Thanks guys I think I’ll be able to make a quiet form 1 where at can I get this information bc I would really like to know.i am interested in it and I have so many questions such as what are the benefits of monocores vs cups as monocores seem much easier.
 

ericwh

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IMO due to manufacturing limitations, monocore designs can't "shear gas" as well as a cone and don't have as much internal volume for the gas to expand into as a cone design.

I wouldn't spend $200 on a tax stamp for a monocore, oil filter etc. I think you will be disappointed and once it's done it's done.

I would go here and do a lot of reading before you post anything:
 

ericwh

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When I hear solvent trap build, I am not imagining someone tig welding... but, man if I could tig weld I would have more cans. If anything made me want to learn how, its that.

This is probably the biggest difference to a commercial can in my mind. Plus the tube is a fair part of the cost so it'd be even cheaper.

Bit of a grey area but my understanding is having people "help" you mfg a form1 is ok as long as you're present during the entire operation and no money changes hands. So I guess if you have a buddy that can tig weld you'd be golden like a heat-treated cone.
 
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Got my first F1 approval this morning. Took 30 days from submitted to approved. ericwh is correct. Go to the F1 board and study.
 
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Trapperkid

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Bump any more info you guys would like to share I have been doing some research over on form 1 suppressor but lord knows I don’t need to post over there yet.
 
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Have both bought and built, they both work awesome. The best thing i did was a cover. It helped dampen the sound and make a lower tone. Also eliminating heat mirage was a big help. Bought mine from a guy on predator masters [email protected] ,he was very helpful, fast and makes a quality product.
 

ericwh

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Bump any more info you guys would like to share I have been doing some research over on form 1 suppressor but lord knows I don’t need to post over there yet.

1. Use a brake inside the can. I have Griffin Taper mount. Cherry bomb is popular, and there is also a guy on ebay who sells brakes with external threads (not taper mount).
2. For supersonic rifles, have a decent size blast chamber/spacer
3. Use some sort of progressive spacing on your baffles - start out spaced apart and then tighten up towards the end
4. I used 50° cones for the first few and then switched to 60°
5. Have some space at the end
6. 17-4ph for at least the first few baffles and then you could switch to titanium towards the end. I have titanium adapter, tube, blast spacer, all 17-4 cones, and titanium end cap.
7. Single clip all the cones

I did 1-5/8 OD with a 7.5 inch tube. I think I'd be happy giving up some suppression and going with a 5.5" tube for more portability. I think most people on the form1 board are looking for max suppression so you don't see many shorter builds. I'm not sure how much 1-5/8 gives you over 1.5 od.

Don't do anything until you have been approved.
 
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I have bought factory suppressors and have built form 1 suppressors. In all honesty I cannot tell the difference between the 2 as far as sound goes they are about a horse apiece. If you do decide to go the form 1 route make sure that you use quality components as that will make the process easier in the long run and give you a better finished product.

the reason I went the form 1 route after purchasing my first can was because there were certain things I wanted as far as size, weight, and style go and I was not able to get them in a production can so I built one. There is lots of info out there and good parts are easy to find. That and the wait time is usually much shorter.
 
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Just out of curiosity. Why would you want to weld the baffles? Is it just for durability? Wouldn't that take away from the ability to clean them?
I'm running down this rabbit hole my self and have my 6g Ti cert. So wondering if welding pros out weight the cons.
Also where are you getting your end caps? Or are you machining them your self?
 
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End caps and baffles can be purchased online as well as the tubes. They all just stack together and the end caps keep everything tight. You can clip baffles or not clip baffles depending on the style of the can you build it may not matter. I have one form 1 with clipped baffles and one without and see no appreciable difference.
 
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End caps and baffles can be purchased online as well as the tubes. They all just stack together and the end caps keep everything tight. You can clip baffles or not clip baffles depending on the style of the can you build it may not matter. I have one form 1 with clipped baffles and one without and see no appreciable difference.
Any websites that are better than others?
 
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