Swarovski Reticle Choice

[twoadaydanny]

I'm a midwestern bird and whitetail hunter (shotgun only, up to this point) who has been invited on a backpacking elk hunt out west next year. I'm putting together a lightweight rifle/scope combination that I can use for this hunt, but that I might also potentially use for whitetail in northern MN or MI where it's not shotgun only. I'm leaning towards a Swaro Z5 3.5-18x44. Because I may be using this setup at widely varying elevations and temperatures, I am leaning away from the ballistic turret option and considering running this in conjunction with a Gunwerks G7 ballistic rangefinder. Any thoughts on this setup are welcome.

The question I've got is--assuming this system, it seems as though the BRX reticle would be superfluous and the Christmas tree would just clutter up the reticle unnecessarily. So I am leaning towards the simple plex reticle. Again, I'd be very grateful for any advice on this.

 

[1shotgear]

I run the z5 2.4-12x50 BT plex on my 300 rum I was running a nightforce and it was just a little to much weight and magnification for the way I hunt. That's why I chose the z5 with the plex reticle and the z5 is a great glass and I use there BT on mine works for me on how I do things but in that sense everyone hunts and shoots a little different so its all on preference on how you do things. If your looking for any Swarovski products or just help on options on what to do feel free to give me a call and I would be glad to help you out even if you don't buy one information will always settle the brain!

 

[handwerk]

Although my favorite reticle is the swaro 4a, since you're going with the Z5 I'd stick with the plex.

 

[Scottyboy]

Pick a reticle that is best for your eyes. You are lucky to get a shot past 100yds here in MN unless you are hunting pastures or have clear cutted. Cannot speak to western WI, but I would be safe in assuming it’s much the same as here.

Don’t worry about dialing, depending on your caliber, sight in at 200 and hold dead center anywhere between 100-300..

 

[Scottyboy]

Ohhh and don’t waste your money on a G7 if you occasionally hunt the west. Meaning, if you cannot practice to 1000 no point in getting one, any free online calculator can spit out your MOA/MIL come up pretty close out to 500-600, which those ranges are very few and far in between around here.

 

[Axlrod]

With the plex i dont see the need for the g7. you wont be able to adjust for long range. Any range finder will work but you will have to pass on any shots past your point blank range.

 

[twoadaydanny]

Thanks so much to all of you for your replies!

Scottyboy, you're absolutely correct, my shots in MN have all been around 100 yards or less. I have had a couple shots up near 200, and I've passed on them. The properties I hunt in MN are all in the driftless area in the SE, and I'm typically set up on the edge of a wooded ravine--woods to one side of me, crop land to the other.

Out west, I don't really know--I hope all my potential shots are under 300, which with my rifle/cartridge should be within its maximum point blank range. But I suppose I want to be capable of shooting with acceptable accuracy out to 400 or 450.

Being new to rifle hunting, I've been reading up, and it sounds as though at those ranges (400-450) temperature and elevation actually could make difference that would be practically meaningful. This is why the ballistic rangefinder with the ability to adjust for these variables was interesting to me. Am I mis-thinking things though? Maybe what you're saying is--assume higher elevation and lower temperature when calculating bullet drop for longer, western shots, and the same MOA adjustments will work for the shorter, midwestern shots because they will be at much shorter range and any inaccuracy isn't going to make a real-world difference? I suppose that makes sense.

Axlrod, I don't understand when you suggest that I wouldn't be able to adjust for longer range shots with a plex reticle. Sure, there'd be no Christmas tree that would enable me to use the reticle itself to make such adjustments. But I would think I'd just make elevation and windage adjustments on the turrets of the scope. Am I misunderstanding something?

Thanks again, everybody, for all the help thinking this through.

 

[WRO]

The 4w is pretty hard to beat

 

[1shotgear]

Thanks so much to all of you for your replies!

Scottyboy, you're absolutely correct, my shots in MN have all been around 100 yards or less. I have had a couple shots up near 200, and I've passed on them. The properties I hunt in MN are all in the driftless area in the SE, and I'm typically set up on the edge of a wooded ravine--woods to one side of me, crop land to the other.

Out west, I don't really know--I hope all my potential shots are under 300, which with my rifle/cartridge should be within its maximum point blank range. But I suppose I want to be capable of shooting with acceptable accuracy out to 400 or 450.

Being new to rifle hunting, I've been reading up, and it sounds as though at those ranges (400-450) temperature and elevation actually could make difference that would be practically meaningful. This is why the ballistic rangefinder with the ability to adjust for these variables was interesting to me. Am I mis-thinking things though? Maybe what you're saying is--assume higher elevation and lower temperature when calculating bullet drop for longer, western shots, and the same MOA adjustments will work for the shorter, midwestern shots because they will be at much shorter range and any inaccuracy isn't going to make a real-world difference? I suppose that makes sense.

Axlrod, I don't understand when you suggest that I wouldn't be able to adjust for longer range shots with a plex reticle. Sure, there'd be no Christmas tree that would enable me to use the reticle itself to make such adjustments. But I would think I'd just make elevation and windage adjustments on the turrets of the scope. Am I misunderstanding something?

Thanks again, everybody, for all the help thinking this through.

You know I am no rifleman I have been a archery guy my whole life and I started the rifle game just a couple years back but getting all the info from our Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica and Nightforce guys there is a lot out there that can get a little over whelming on what to use but every shot I have ever had has never been over 500 yards now for a 300rum is a chip shot that's why I went to the z5 with the bt cause I wanted something that would be simple and easy to use. I like the bt because if my animal is at 200 yards I turn it to my colored 200 yard mark and pull the trigger 300 and so on now that's the system I like not saying yes that's the one you have to go with NO not at all you use what you are comfortable with and what has worked for you in the past but for the scope glass is unreal in any of the Swarovski products as well as lightweight and I am a lightweight guy. Now if I am in the thick down timber your not shooting 300 yards 100 is a stretch so that being said I zeroed my 300 at 200 yards so at a 100 yard shot well heck I don't have to change nothing pull up and pull the trigger. It is just a simple way of doing things many guys will say well he is an idiot for doing it that way well guess what I don't care and it works for me and I kill stuff haha. Use what you feel will work for you it may not be Swarovski it may be Zeiss there v4 or v6's or maybe another brand but use what works for your wallet and the way you like to do things. Sorry I went on a little long hard to explain everything over text but like I said just give me a call you have any questions on anything or looking to buy I will be glad to help you out on anything you need.

 

[Scottyboy]

Thanks so much to all of you for your replies!

Scottyboy, you're absolutely correct, my shots in MN have all been around 100 yards or less. I have had a couple shots up near 200, and I've passed on them. The properties I hunt in MN are all in the driftless area in the SE, and I'm typically set up on the edge of a wooded ravine--woods to one side of me, crop land to the other.

Out west, I don't really know--I hope all my potential shots are under 300, which with my rifle/cartridge should be within its maximum point blank range. But I suppose I want to be capable of shooting with acceptable accuracy out to 400 or 450.

Being new to rifle hunting, I've been reading up, and it sounds as though at those ranges (400-450) temperature and elevation actually could make difference that would be practically meaningful. This is why the ballistic rangefinder with the ability to adjust for these variables was interesting to me. Am I mis-thinking things though? Maybe what you're saying is--assume higher elevation and lower temperature when calculating bullet drop for longer, western shots, and the same MOA adjustments will work for the shorter, midwestern shots because they will be at much shorter range and any inaccuracy isn't going to make a real-world difference? I suppose that makes sense.

Axlrod, I don't understand when you suggest that I wouldn't be able to adjust for longer range shots with a plex reticle. Sure, there'd be no Christmas tree that would enable me to use the reticle itself to make such adjustments. But I would think I'd just make elevation and windage adjustments on the turrets of the scope. Am I misunderstanding something?

Thanks again, everybody, for all the help thinking this through.

If you are new to rifle hunting, don’t worry about a ballistic range finder as you the ranges you could/would be proficient in won’t apply.

Meaning, if you are ‘good’ to say 500yds here at ~1000ft ASL you should be just fine out west at the same distance. Your biggest constraint is the fact we don’t have ranges here to shoot past 500, unless you jump through the hoops and join gopher OR drive to the border crossing in Roseau where there is a 1000yd range.

Get proficient at the distances you can practice with the gear you can afford, and then look at how you can improve. If you ever want someone to shoot the shit with at the range, let me know!

 

[TREE ‘EM]

4w is your best bet
Practice and know your limitations

 

[CBECK61]

I would go with the 4W. Just know when you mount the z5 and set the zero stop your will only get 3/4 of a revolution out of the turret which allows for 13.5 moa. I typically zero at 200 with my Z5s which leaves your about 1.5in high with most calibers. I absolutly love my Z5s but have taken a few off and replaced them with Leupold VX5HD 3-15s. Swaro glass is better but the leupold is close and I like their turret system better.

 

[Wapiti1]

My comments are a bit different. If you see this as the start to many more trips and you will grow as a high power rifle shooter, go with the Z5 BT you like and get the 4W reticle.

If this will be an occasional thing, get a 2-10. Either Leupold with CDS, or Swaro Z3 with BRH (BRX is too thin in dim light). Out to 500 yards, a 2-10 is more than enough scope. Decide if you like the idea of dialing, or hold over. Dialing is more precise, reticles are faster. If you don't practice with them, though, neither is going to do you much good. Any decent rangefinder will work. You also need to construct a DOPE card so you know your dial settings, or holdover distances.

With the Z5 you are considering, you are spending a lot of extra money on utility you can't really use and perhaps don't intend to.

Just my opinion. I think you could be spending a lot on sizzle with no steak.

Jeremy