T1x + Sparrow = huge POI Shift?????

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So I have a Tikka t1x. It have a nikon that I already owned but I would consider limited in travel.
But it has been consistently shooting great groups. At least to my expectations.
3/4" @50 with 10 shot groups.
Zeroed at 50 yards.
15 moa rail.
I recently got the stamp for my silencerco sparrow suppressor.
And the point of impact shift was around 3ft at 50 yards.
I ran out of travel to bring it down so idk if it will shoot a group at 50.

I took the suppressor apart and could not see any signs of a baffle strike.

I'm not exactly flush with cash rite now but do you think this is a matter of just getting a scope with more travel.
Change the 15 moa rail to a zero?

Id like to leave a 50 yard zero as this will mostly be a grouse gun. But I've also considered attempting a 100 yards zero and seeing how high it is at 50
 
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Switch to 0 MOA and/or experiment with pressure points on the barrel. Not sure if those guns are free floated or what the situation is there but you might can cancel out the harmonics and bring the POI back around by adding a pressure point on the barrel by stuffing something in the barrel channel, move it around, shoot some groups, and if you find a good spot, put some bedding compound in there.
 

mt100gr.

WKR
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Not sure if this info helps at all but I also have a T1x/SWFA. I have it zeroed at 50 yards and with various bulk ammo I need around +7.5-8.25 MOA for a correction at 100yds.

Might give you an idea if a rail swap will get you what you need....?
 
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If it's missing by 3 ft at 50 yards I'd almost guarantee you are experiencing baffle strikes, although you said there's no evidence of it. Likely the bullets are making a tiny bit of contact and it's sending them astray.

If it were mine I'd have the barrel cut and threaded by a competent smith and I'd bet the issues go away.
 
OP
BRTreedogs
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I'm thinking it is the threads as well.
It does screw on hard.

I'm not sure where they measure barrel length from on rimfire.
T1x options are suppose to be 16.5 or 21 and id call mine 19.5
I'm uncertain how much room I could cut down.
 

sram9102

WKR
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If the threads are not concentric I would think that would be something Tikka would rectify. I would have a smith look it over before I started chopping it off.
 
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BRTreedogs
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I'm sure tikka would take care of it.
But for the cost of just getting it chopped its not worth the inconvenience for me.

I'll probably just drop it at the Smith. I've got one local that did a great job chopping the 22 mag and it shoot great w the same suppressor on it.
 
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I'm sure tikka would take care of it.
But for the cost of just getting it chopped its not worth the inconvenience for me.

I'll probably just drop it at the Smith. I've got one local that did a great job chopping the 22 mag and it shoot great w the same suppressor on it.
That's exactly my attitude. Tikka makes a good rifle but I don't trust factory muzzle threads on anything.
 
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Do the threads on the Tikka T1X measure .400” back to the shoulder or is it more? I’ve had some issues with my Sparrow on rifles that threads were cut longer and I needed to use the included spacer. I don’t have a Tikka T1X, but wondering if this is the case? If they are longer and you don’t use the provided spacer, it will index on the barrel crown which is not always cut concentric. Then you could also damage the crown if it’s not recessed and cause accuracy issues w/o the suppressor.
 
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OP
BRTreedogs
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Do the threads on the Tikka T1X measure .400” back to the shoulder or is it more? I’ve had some issues with my Sparrow on rifles that threads were cut longer and I needed to use the included spacer. I don’t have a Tikka T1X, but wondering if this is the case? If they are longer and you don’t use the provided spacer, it will index on the barrel crown which is not always cut concentric. Then you could also damage the crown if it’s not recessed and cause accuracy issues w/o the suppressor.
Interesting.
I'll have to check when I get back to the house.
 
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Interesting.
I'll have to check when I get back to the house.
Did some more digging:

A9AA93B9-1727-4288-B93E-A26819E97973.jpeg

Looks like the barrel threads are longer than .400 on the Tikka T1X - they are .500. Your suppressor should have come with a spacer that you would put on the barrel, then thread your suppressor on. This spacer allows the base of the suppressor to index against the spacer where it would normally index on the shoulder behind the threads. Try the spacer and see how it works out. Good luck!
 

Oldffemt

WKR
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As others have suggested check your threads. My savage only has ~1/4” poi change at 50yds with and without the can. Is your poi change consistent? As in every time you take the can off and on it hits the same spot? You may not be getting a baffle strike but maybe the bullet is so close upon leaving the can that it’s being destabilized?
 
OP
BRTreedogs
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Did some more digging:

View attachment 298093

Looks like the barrel threads are longer than .400 on the Tikka T1X - they are .500. Your suppressor should have come with a spacer that you would put on the barrel, then thread your suppressor on. This spacer allows the base of the suppressor to index against the spacer where it would normally index on the shoulder behind the threads. Try the spacer and see how it works out. Good luck!
Good catch. This was it.
Installed spacer and 1" poi shift to the right was all same height.
Unfortunately the group is larger.

I'm gonna have the same Smith that did my magnum chop it down to 17" and re thread.

I wouldn't mind having it shorter anyways.

Thanks for the help fellas.
 
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Good catch. This was it.
Installed spacer and 1" poi shift to the right was all same height.
Unfortunately the group is larger.

I'm gonna have the same Smith that did my magnum chop it down to 17" and re thread.

I wouldn't mind having it shorter anyways.

Thanks for the help fellas.
Awesome! Glad this worked out and you’ll like the shorter barrel. Your gunsmith will recut the crown and re-thread the barrel. You might ask him to cut the threads at .400” to the shoulder - that way you wouldn’t even need to use the spacer anymore. Good luck!
 
OP
BRTreedogs
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Awesome! Glad this worked out and you’ll like the shorter barrel. Your gunsmith will recut the crown and re-thread the barrel. You might ask him to cut the threads at .400” to the shoulder - that way you wouldn’t even need to use the spacer anymore. Good luck!
Thats the plan.
Thanks again
 
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