The Carbon Ring

Desert Dan

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Messages
275
Location
Lansing, Michigan
Not too long ago I posted a question about what I originally suspected was a headspace issue in my CA Ridgeline. Long story short, after a few months off from shooting the rifle I went to measure the base to ogive for some hand loads and the measurements came up way short. Tried loading a factory round and it was so tight it got stuck extracting. Clearly something was very off.
Thanks to forum members CaHunter805 and KD32 as well as a few others it became clear the problem was a carbon ring, something I had never had before. Based on a few recommendations I got some JB Bore Paste and Kroil and an oversized brush along with some Bore Tech C4 to use from here on out. I tried two of the more popular methods to work on the carbon ring - the first an oversize bronze brush covered in bore paste inserted into the chamber and spun 30-40 times using a non-spinning Dewey short rod, then cleaned and repeated. No noticeable difference. Still couldn't load a sized casing without way too much force. Went back to work with an undersized brush wrapped in a patch and covered in bore paste, short stroking at first, then cleaned out and went on to spinning for a bit before cleaning it out again.
After cleaning it out again I started to notice a difference but I still had plenty of work to do so I decided to apply a generous coat of C4 and leave it overnight. In the morning I went back to it with an undersized brush and patch and when I ran a soaked patch down the barrel after the tip had a thick black ring on which was encouraging. After that I was able to chamber a fired casing, a sized casing, and a dummy round seated to factory length.
I made a lot of progress but I'm not convinced the problem is totally solved. The Ridgeline has a tight chamber but I still feel like I'm getting too much resistance when closing the bolt. I double checked my sizing die and backed off .002 from the fired case. Still tight but workable. Tried an unfired case and even bumped a case below that and they all felt about the same so I set my die back to .0025 from specs and left it. Basically the round will chamber until it is just shy of being forward enough to close the bolt when it hangs up. Moderate pressure the last bit - not a lot - and it closes. I can feel what I assume is the ejector compressing for the last push. I remember the rifle chambering snug but not quite that snug so I plan to work a little more and see if that carbon ring is still hanging around.
Anyway thanks for everyone for helping me figure this out. Didn't mean for this post to get this long. Hopefully if anyone else encounters this problem for the first time they'll have a heads up on fixing it.

dan
 

Low_Sky

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
271
Location
Alaska
Not too long ago I posted a question about what I originally suspected was a headspace issue in my CA Ridgeline. Long story short, after a few months off from shooting the rifle I went to measure the base to ogive for some hand loads and the measurements came up way short. Tried loading a factory round and it was so tight it got stuck extracting. Clearly something was very off.
Thanks to forum members CaHunter805 and KD32 as well as a few others it became clear the problem was a carbon ring, something I had never had before. Based on a few recommendations I got some JB Bore Paste and Kroil and an oversized brush along with some Bore Tech C4 to use from here on out. I tried two of the more popular methods to work on the carbon ring - the first an oversize bronze brush covered in bore paste inserted into the chamber and spun 30-40 times using a non-spinning Dewey short rod, then cleaned and repeated. No noticeable difference. Still couldn't load a sized casing without way too much force. Went back to work with an undersized brush wrapped in a patch and covered in bore paste, short stroking at first, then cleaned out and went on to spinning for a bit before cleaning it out again.
After cleaning it out again I started to notice a difference but I still had plenty of work to do so I decided to apply a generous coat of C4 and leave it overnight. In the morning I went back to it with an undersized brush and patch and when I ran a soaked patch down the barrel after the tip had a thick black ring on which was encouraging. After that I was able to chamber a fired casing, a sized casing, and a dummy round seated to factory length.
I made a lot of progress but I'm not convinced the problem is totally solved. The Ridgeline has a tight chamber but I still feel like I'm getting too much resistance when closing the bolt. I double checked my sizing die and backed off .002 from the fired case. Still tight but workable. Tried an unfired case and even bumped a case below that and they all felt about the same so I set my die back to .0025 from specs and left it. Basically the round will chamber until it is just shy of being forward enough to close the bolt when it hangs up. Moderate pressure the last bit - not a lot - and it closes. I can feel what I assume is the ejector compressing for the last push. I remember the rifle chambering snug but not quite that snug so I plan to work a little more and see if that carbon ring is still hanging around.
Anyway thanks for everyone for helping me figure this out. Didn't mean for this post to get this long. Hopefully if anyone else encounters this problem for the first time they'll have a heads up on fixing it.

dan

If you want to feel what’s going on between your cartridge and the chamber you need strip your bolt of anything spring loaded. Remove the firing pin assembly and ejector. You can leave the extractor in place, but hook the rim under the extractor manually, don’t push feed the cartridge and snap the extractor over the rim as normal.

The stripped bolt should lock and unlock with near-zero resistance. Get your fingers calibrated to what the stripped bolt feels like on an empty chamber, then try a cartridge or case and see if you can feel a difference.


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OP
D

Desert Dan

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Messages
275
Location
Lansing, Michigan
If you want to feel what’s going on between your cartridge and the chamber you need strip your bolt of anything spring loaded. Remove the firing pin assembly and ejector. You can leave the extractor in place, but hook the rim under the extractor manually, don’t push feed the cartridge and snap the extractor over the rim as normal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep exactly what I'm planning on doing next.
 

LaHunter

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2013
Messages
1,387
Location
N.E. LA
A bore scope is a useful tool in diagnosing a carbon ring. The cheap Teslong scope on Amazon works pretty well.
 

Bater

WKR
Joined
Apr 2, 2020
Messages
451
What cartridge was the rifle chambered for, if you don’t mind? And how many rounds down the pipe before this was noticeable?
 

deadwolf

WKR
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
2,509
Location
Anchorage, AK
I’ve been down this road, and it sucks. There are powders I shy away from now, and don’t chase every last bit of velocity with hot loads anymore either.


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packer58

WKR
Joined
May 28, 2013
Messages
994
Was looking at the blue tooth / i phone compatible Teslong bore scope, it was like $79.00 with great reviews over on Amazon.
 
OP
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Desert Dan

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 31, 2018
Messages
275
Location
Lansing, Michigan
What cartridge was the rifle chambered for, if you don’t mind? And how many rounds down the pipe before this was noticeable?

6.5 PRC. I fired about 280 factory ELD-X/ELD-M rounds down the barrel and about 70 handloaded ELD-X sitting on H-1000. The carbon ring really snuck up on me. I had no noticeable issues loading or opening or closing the bolt the last time I shot a few months before I identified the problem, then when I went back to it after my suppressor arrived it had developed. No camera down the barrel but from feel alone things seem to be back to normal. Bore Tech C4 and JB Bore Paste worked well. It will be Bore Tech Eliminator for routine cleaning and C4 and CU copper solvent every 200 rounds or so from here on out. The JB and cleaning pellets are on hand just in case.
 
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