Thinking About the Dark Side, Have Questions

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

I really can't believe I'm writing this... I'm a trad bow shooter. A decent one at that. I normally feel pretty confident at 20-30 yards on hogs, deer, and elk. But man, it's a lot of work to stay in good shooting shape. On top of that, I had a major surgery last week, and I won't be able to shoot at all for several months. It's got me thinking about setting up a compound for deer season. I have a ton of questions about this, and hopefully y'all can help me out.

1. What could I expect in cost to get into a good compound? Bear in mind I draw 32" with a trad bow. I assume I need a sight, a release, a quiver, a bow (obviously), arrows, and _____? I like simple and bombproof. I don't need to shoot past 50 yards, period, but I would need the bow to be quiet.
2. What does ramp up time look like? I have good form, and a solid shot sequence. Is this something I could have ready to hunt (25-35 yards) in 3-4 weeks?
3. Anyone else done something like this? I'm attracted to the idea of less time being devoted to archery so I can do more fishing and other outdoor activities.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'm assuming your not trying to do barebow. You going to stick with fingers or go to a release? Probably going to be hard to get a bow for fingers that is long enough to not get a too much pinch at 32+ inches. I know I shoot a longer draw with a compound than I do with a stick. I think most do.

I'd look to pickup a used bow for $3-350 to start. Put strings on it $1-150. Simple rest, and sights another $75-125. Release aid can be a cheap wrist strap @$35 to a $350 hand held t-handle in any manor of different release types, hinge, trigger, resistant tension etc. Then arrows, say another $100 on the cheap end. Quiver can be a hip quiver you used before or as much as you want to spend upwards of $200. I'd leave the quiver out of the equation til you get familiar with a bow and know what you want.


Shouldn't take very long at all to be proficient out to 40. I have had people shooting very well at 20 yards within the first shooting session, never shooting a bow before. You have someone local that can help you setup a compound?

 

[zog]

It is SO easy to become hunting proficient with a compound (way different than competition proficient). 3 weeks tops. I try to stay good at both. Compound ruins you faster for going back to stickbow than the other way around.

Don't fall into the marketing trap of thinking you need the latest, like I did a few years ago. These companies purposely hold off on "improvements" so they can make a new model every year. My brother in law shows me up most seasons with his 15 year old compound. I look carefully, and his elk are just as dead as mine.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

I'm assuming your not trying to do barebow. You going to stick with fingers or go to a release?

I would definitely shoot it with a release. This would be aimed at making archery easy for the fall. I'd probably start by looking at a thumb release.

 

[Billy Goat]

I would definitely shoot it with a release. This would be aimed at making archery easy for the fall. I'd probably start by looking at a thumb release.

Seems for many a wrist strap caliper release is easier to get adjusted to. Don't need to worry about loosing it while hunting either. I definitely prefer my hand held releases to a wrist strap, it's just a few more moving parts than a simple caliper.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

It is SO easy to become hunting proficient with a compound (way different than competition proficient). 3 weeks tops. I try to stay good at both. Compound ruins you faster for going back to stickbow than the other way around.

Don't fall into the marketing trap of thinking you need the latest, like I did a few years ago. These companies purposely hold off on "improvements" so they can make a new model every year. My brother in law shows me up most seasons with his 20 year old compound. I look carefully, and his elk are just as dead as mine.

That's encouraging to hear. Along the lines of used bows, I'm guessing it's harder to find ones set up for a long draw, correct?

 

[Newtosavage]

I really can't believe I'm writing this... I'm a trad bow shooter. A decent one at that. I normally feel pretty confident at 20-30 yards on hogs, deer, and elk. But man, it's a lot of work to stay in good shooting shape. On top of that, I had a major surgery last week, and I won't be able to shoot at all for several months. It's got me thinking about setting up a compound for deer season. I have a ton of questions about this, and hopefully y'all can help me out.

1. What could I expect in cost to get into a good compound? Bear in mind I draw 32" with a trad bow. I assume I need a sight, a release, a quiver, a bow (obviously), arrows, and _____? I like simple and bombproof. I don't need to shoot past 50 yards, period, but I would need the bow to be quiet.
2. What does ramp up time look like? I have good form, and a solid shot sequence. Is this something I could have ready to hunt (25-35 yards) in 3-4 weeks?
3. Anyone else done something like this? I'm attracted to the idea of less time being devoted to archery so I can do more fishing and other outdoor activities.

I've hunted with traditional gear almost exclusively since the 80's. You're 100% correct, it is work to stay in shape and remain accurate enough to hunt, with traditional gear. Some people want that challenge but there are times when you just can't do it or are tired of it. I've been in both places. In 2007 I had an injury that prevented me from even gripping a bowstring with my fingers. I had to buy a compound and hunt with a wrist-strap release that year, but I did it and I enjoyed the hunts even if I didn't enjoy the bow I was using that much.

Consider the performance you're getting from your traditional bow now. It doesn't take much of a compound bow to equal or surpass that performance. I would look on the used market for compounds that are 10 or so years old. ArcheryTalk has a lot of good used compounds because gearheads like to "upgrade" and change stuff every year or two. So the used market is flush with bows that are perfectly fine, but are 1/2 to 1/3 of their new cost.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with making the choice to spend less time shooting/training with your bow so you can enjoy other things.

Lastly, I'd say if you're not completely opposed to it and it's legal in your state, don't count out a crossbow. I know, I know, but it's an option. Sometimes we put silly constraints on ourselves for no real reason, and decades later look back and wonder what the value in all that was. Ask me how I know. LOL

 

[Billy Goat]

That's encouraging to hear. Along the lines of used bows, I'm guessing it's harder to find ones set up for a long draw, correct?

Yes, 32" is going to be hard to come by. Probably not going to be able to be very picky. I'm not certain which bows go that far. This is where @5MilesBack maybe @Beendare (I think he is long draw also) would be of help. Several companies make them, I just can't recall from my memory.

 

[nastynick]

I made the same transition a couple years ago. I bought a bow new online and all the accessories individually, not a bow package. It costed a little over $1000. This was for good quality gear. Other than the bow, the sight and release were most expensive. I still shoot both but really enjoy the compound.
I picked up my Mathews bow from mountainarchery new, a couple year old model. Picked up a Nock 2It and then got a black gold whitetail sight. Those were the most important to me to do it right.

 

[OR Archer]

First thing you should do is find a good pro shop and get properly measured for a compound and start there. You’ll save yourself time and money by knowing exactly what you’re going to need instead of guessing.

 

[87TT]

Is it possible with a release, that his draw length is shorter?

 

[Billy Goat]

First thing you should do is find a good pro shop and get properly measured for a compound and start there. You’ll save yourself time and money by knowing exactly what you’re going to need instead of guessing.

Don't know why I didn't bring that about. Best advice so far.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

First thing you should do is find a good pro shop and get properly measured for a compound and start there. You’ll save yourself time and money by knowing exactly what you’re going to need instead of guessing.

I will definitely do this once I'm healed up a bit. No lifting more than a milk jug of weight for the next month or so...

 

[Runningwater]

A little off topic, but I wish there were some offerings of "old school" compounds like the old wood riser Brownings and such, with simple wheels and a long axle to accommodate finger shooting. The other product I'd like to see is a "traditional" crossbow if you will. wood stock, open sights, recurved limbs - designed to shoot wood shafts. Just would like to have some options as I get older if I need them to continue to hunt that look nice, are somewhat simple in design, and don't need a bunch of high tech accessories ....

 

[OR Archer]

I will definitely do this once I'm healed up a bit. No lifting more than a milk jug of weight for the next month or so...

What you can do in the mean time to get an idea for draw length is this. Stand perpendicular to the wall. Raise your arm as if you’re shooting and make a fist. Place it on the wall then measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth. This will give you your draw length normally within a half inch. This isn’t exact as there are other factors involved but it will give you a good idea and you can then properly start research now models and arrows that will work for your draw.
Also if you are that long of a draw and coming off shoulder surgery just get a 50-60# bow.

 

[Dustin the wind]

Sportsman’s warehouse here in Helena has a brand new Bear Assault for $200 on the clearance rack. It does max out at 32”. I hunted with the same exact model for about 8 years when I first started. Would be a very cheap and good option.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

What you can do in the mean time to get an idea for draw length is this. Stand perpendicular to the wall. Raise your arm as if you’re shooting and make a fist. Place it on the wall then measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth. This will give you your draw length normally within a half inch. This isn’t exact as there are other factors involved but it will give you a good idea and you can then properly start research now models and arrows that will work for your draw.
Also if you are that long of a draw and coming off shoulder surgery just get a 50-60# bow.

When I get proper scapular alignment my hand is back along the side of my face. Can the distance to the corner of the mouth be made up by a longer D-loop? I would almost certainly go for a 50-55# bow if I did this.

 

[zog]

That's encouraging to hear. Along the lines of used bows, I'm guessing it's harder to find ones set up for a long draw, correct?

Yes 32 inch is getting up there. Also there is one drawback to aging bows and that is they sometimes change their cams and wheels so It gets more difficult to repair or replace.

 

[OR Archer]

Your hand will be right along your jaw line just in front of your ear. If it’s behind that then you’re likely drawing to long.

 

[zog]

I would definitely shoot it with a release. This would be aimed at making archery easy for the fall. I'd probably start by looking at a thumb release.

Oh, yes - personal experience - don't go fingers with a compound. Yes you can do it but you would likely negate my claim that you can be hunt-ready in 3 weeks. Fingers with compound is WAY different than stickbow, and going to a release might speed up your habit changes.