Tikka gunsmith recommendations?

[freediver111]

Hey guys,
Picked up a “used” Tikka T3 SS in .338 wm but it’s brand new and unfired. Safe queen for a project that never happened.

Also bought a T3X .300 wm barrel and stock for it on the way. Not sure what I’m doing with it yet, but I came across a slight issue last night.

I noticed when cocking the rifle it had a bit of a stiff bolt lift. Not so bad, but noticeable. Some guys recommended just working the bolt and taking it all apart and using some TW25B in strategic locations. Did that and started working the bolt. After 20-30 cycles, it started getting bad. Like metal on metal grinding and getting heavier. I found the issue though. It’s the cocking ramp riding against the firing pin indicator. Pic below. I put a dab of TW25B on it and the grinding stopped. Back to normal, albeit still on the stiff side.

I can’t and won’t send it to Beretta. So my options are do a little polish work on it myself, leave it and work the action a bunch and keep it lubed, or send it to a smith.

The headspace may be a little tight too, but maybe not. Feeds factory ammo fine, but some of my reloads I made for another rifle won’t fit. I’m guessing all I need to do is size fired cases appropriately for this gun, so not too worried about that since it does cycle factory ammo fine.

Anyone run into this? I do have a Sterk bolt handle on the way. That will help, but just wondering if anyone has run into this.

Anyone recommend a smith in Oregon/WA/Idaho that has experience with this issue, or work on a lot of Tikkas?

Thanks!

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[Tikka300wsm]

@HellsCanyon

 

[WJS23]

I don’t believe that’s the factory bolt handle.

 

[freediver111]

That’s not my pic. Found it on another thread describing a similar issue. My gun is all factory, but I did buy a Sterk handle. Don’t have it in hand or installed yet.
The bolt handle in that pic is also a Sterk. Not that it really matters as the handle doesn’t play into the cocking ramp/cocking piece in any way.

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[16Bore]

Don’t expect something sized for another rifle to work in a different one. Just take stuff apart and clean it.

 

[freediver111]

Don’t expect something sized for another rifle to work in a different one. Just take stuff apart and clean it.

Figured it needs to be sized for that gun. Since factory ammo loads fine, I’m betting headspace is fine.
I did take it all apart and clean/light lubrication. It’s still tight, but not horrible. Cocking ramp is the problem area for sure.


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[HellsCanyon]

Copy and pasted from my PM to you just a bit ago for anybody else wondering:

"The Tikkas are definitely a harder to cock bolt than most R700 actions/customs due to their 2 lug 60* bolt throw vs. the R700 2 lug 90*. You're traveling the same distance in 2/3rd the time so the cocking is tighter. Lot of guys aren't used to it coming from that platform.

If the action is new, I would disassembly and clean the bolt and cocking piece really well. Take some 400-600 grit followed by 1000 grit paper and wrap it around a popsicle stick and gently polish the ramp and the cocking piece. Tikka bolts are HARD and they don't gall up at all so if you've felt any grittyness it's likely due to some foreign material there. You can polish these surfaces pretty good and then follow than with some slick gun grease. An aftermarket handle from Sterk will definitely help as well.

Tightness on reloads from another rifle doesn't mean your headspace is too tight, just that it's tighter. Factory chamber headspace varies up to .009" from one barrel to the next so you definitely need to be measuring shoulder headspace from brass fired in your chamber and resize other brass below that number. "

Mike @ HCA

 

[16Bore]

Don’t forget 300 WM virgins headspace off the belt too.

And a little birdy told me something about polishing stuff with a Dremel, compound, and a felt drum. But make you’re own decision on that one.