Tikka vs AICS OAL and Belted Case Reloading

[AkMtnRunner]

I am preparing to reload for a Tikka T3x. The rifle will be sent soon to JES Reboring to transform from a 7mm rm to 338wm. It'll be put into a Mesa Precision Altitude stock.

My first main question is would it be worth considering something like Mountain Tactical's AICS bottom metal and magazines to load bullets longer than I could in the Tikka magazines? I need to decide now so that JES can throat the barrel properly. I would like to load Barnes TTSX 225, with a length of 1.547". I don't think I need to go to the AICS length and I'd rather use the Tikka flush magazines, but I don't know all of the potential advantages. I am leaning towards not effing with it.

My second question is regarding reloading the belted cases. I have lots of experience with 308 Win and 375 Ruger, but nothing belted. I've read up some on the reforming brass subject and it seems there are a lot of different philosophies for what makes for the best case life and accuracy. I know it's somewhat of a complicated question, so does anyone have a link to a great explanation so that I can decide the right process for my needs?

Thanks

 

[deerkiller]

I am preparing to reload for a Tikka T3x. The rifle will be sent soon to JES Reboring to transform from a 7mm rm to 338wm. It'll be put into a Mesa Precision Altitude stock.

My first main question is would it be worth considering something like Mountain Tactical's AICS bottom metal and magazines to load bullets longer than I could in the Tikka magazines? I need to decide now so that JES can throat the barrel properly. I would like to load Barnes TTSX 225, with a length of 1.547". I don't think I need to go to the AICS length and I'd rather use the Tikka flush magazines, but I don't know all of the potential advantages. I am leaning towards not effing with it.

My second question is regarding reloading the belted cases. I have lots of experience with 308 Win and 375 Ruger, but nothing belted. I've read up some on the reforming brass subject and it seems there are a lot of different philosophies for what makes for the best case life and accuracy. I know it's somewhat of a complicated question, so does anyone have a link to a great explanation so that I can decide the right process for my needs?

Thanks

a common approach with any belted magnum case is to not allow it to headspace on the belt as that is not very "precise", I use REDDING competition shellholder set #6 - simple: you set your ram with the die adjusted against the shellholder with the "10" holder then start sizing with the "2" first (2,4,6,8,10 in the set of 5) If the bolt will close on the case when sized with that #2 then you're there, if not try the #4 and so on until you have the snug fit - you now have a case that is headspaced on the shoulder rather than the belt

 

[Quicksilver]

I've gone down the Tikka route with CDI metal and AICS magazines. My 300wm was throated for long bullets and basically made the rifle a single shot. I came up with a mag fed load with 200 eldx bullets but even those are seated deeply into the case. Be sure it's going to work out with a mag fed setup. Even if you get longer magazines I ran into the issure of the feed ramp being too short and the tip of the bullet getting caught under it while cycling the bolt. The AICS magazines needed a spacer in them to not let the tip of the bullet slide under the feed ramp. Mountain Tactical I think eliminates this probelm though, also look into the factory replacement magazines by Hells Canyon Armory! It may be the fix you're looking for.

 

[deerkiller]

I've gone down the Tikka route with CDI metal and AICS magazines. My 300wm was throated for long bullets and basically made the rifle a single shot. I came up with a mag fed load with 200 eldx bullets but even those are seated deeply into the case. Be sure it's going to work out with a mag fed setup. Even if you get longer magazines I ran into the issure of the feed ramp being too short and the tip of the bullet getting caught under it while cycling the bolt. The AICS magazines needed a spacer in them to not let the tip of the bullet slide under the feed ramp. Mountain Tactical I think eliminates this probelm though, also look into the factory replacement magazines by Hells Canyon Armory! It may be the fix you're looking for.

just more money to spend on an already proven and reliable firearm ….

 

[desertcj]

a common approach with any belted magnum case is to not allow it to headspace on the belt as that is not very "precise", I use REDDING competition shellholder set #6 - simple: you set your ram with the die adjusted against the shellholder with the "10" holder then start sizing with the "2" first (2,4,6,8,10 in the set of 5) If the bolt will close on the case when sized with that #2 then you're there, if not try the #4 and so on until you have the snug fit - you now have a case that is headspaced on the shoulder rather than the belt

I never really understood the complication here. After the first shot, as long as you neck size only...you are headspaced off of the shoulder. The belt and the shoulder actually? I don't see the problem?

 

[deerkiller]

I never really understood the complication here. After the first shot, as long as you neck size only...you are headspaced off of the shoulder. The belt and the shoulder actually? I don't see the problem?

as long as you make certain you are on the shoulder there's no way of really knowing

 

[desertcj]

as long as you make certain you are on the shoulder there's no way of really knowing

If 60,000psi doesn't form the shoulder to the chamber then I'm not sure what will. I trust that it does. Maybe this is just a full-length sizing problem? I neck size only but also have Redding body dies which I still have never used.

 

[mt100gr.]

I don't have a correct answer but my Tikka 7mmRM shoots great with full length sizing the brass. I am almost ready to start into my 5th loading on 175 pieces of W-W brass and haven't culled one yet.

I have neck sizing dies but decided to continue FL sizing as the accuracy has been excellent.

Probably a case of 'ask 10 guys, get 10 different answers'.

I just switched back to H1000 but before I was loading a 168gr berger HVLD over 70.0 gr of retumbo, WLRM primers. Now I am back at 69.5 gr H1000 and a 215M primer. Same bullet.

 

[deerkiller]

If 60,000psi doesn't form the shoulder to the chamber then I'm not sure what will. I trust that it does. Maybe this is just a full-length sizing problem? I neck size only but also have Redding body dies which I still have never used.

was sizing my 338/06 AI with the Redding neck die, worked nice at the bench but a bit more than 50% were crush fit and I didn't want that - tried the FL die with the competition shellholders, .004 and all is good now

 

[desertcj]

I don't have a correct answer but my Tikka 7mmRM shoots great with full length sizing the brass. I am almost ready to start into my 5th loading on 175 pieces of W-W brass and haven't culled one yet.

I have neck sizing dies but decided to continue FL sizing as the accuracy has been excellent.

Probably a case of 'ask 10 guys, get 10 different answers'.

I just switched back to H1000 but before I was loading a 168gr berger HVLD over 70.0 gr of retumbo, WLRM primers. Now I am back at 69.5 gr H1000 and a 215M primer. Same bullet.

I also shoot Win brass in my 7mm Rem mag. It has been the worst brass I've ever used unfortunately! 9 out of 2 bags of 50 were culls right out of the gate due to wrinkles in the shoulder. All of the primer pockets were shallow and had to be uniformed which I can accept but about 25% of what's left had loose/barely useable pockets right from the start as well. I'm going to Hornady or Norma...

 

[mt100gr.]

I also shoot Win brass in my 7mm Rem mag. It has been the worst brass I've ever used unfortunately! 9 out of 2 bags of 50 were culls right out of the gate due to wrinkles in the shoulder. All of the primer pockets were shallow and had to be uniformed which I can accept but about 25% of what's left had loose/barely useable pockets right from the start as well. I'm going to Hornady or Norma...

The lot I have been working with is from 2014. I guess I can't complain, but I never expected the WW to work so well for me. Hornady did fine also and I like Norma for my 300WM.