Tips for Torque Tuning

[Archerichards]

Thought I would try to put a Torque Tune on my Hoyt RX3 Ultra this time. I know its usually a bit different for everyone, but tell me, where would you start....with the rest all the forward and sight all the way backward, or vice versa, or what? Move in big increments or small? I have read the Gillingham post on this, which is helpful, but answers to these questions would save a lot of time and goofs.

Any tips would be welcomed.

 

[Reburn]

Why not just start where you havd the bow already setup and see what the impacts do?

 

[Billy Goat]

I start with the rest as close to the riser as I can get it. Then try to torque tune with the sight. Generally start with the sight in a center position.

With the Hoyt you don't always get a lot of options for moving the rest.


Not saying I do it correctly. Just that's how I typically set a bow up and can generally get it to torque tune starting there.

 

[Samdemarais]

Why not out the sight where you want it and move the rest....

 

[Billy Goat]

Why not out the sight where you want it and move the rest....

Not saying that's not the way to do it, but I generally have the bow close to tuned and don't want to touch the rest unless I really need to. I also feel like on most of my bows I use the riser to help brace the rest. I draw the rest tight in the riser to help keep it from possibly rotating on an impact. Now if the bow has two Berger holes, then I really don't worry about it.

Not saying anything wrong with moving the rest instead of the sight, just giving reasons why I usually prefer to move the sight.

 

[Samdemarais]

That makes sense. Can you create a more forgiving set up by moving the sight out? Or can it really only be accomplished by moving it in? You would think in general the closer to the riser the sight is the more forgiving when torque is applied.

 

[Wapack]

Why not out the sight where you want it and move the rest....

There usually isn’t much space on a tec riser for rest adjustment. With hoyts your kinda stuck moving the sight.

 

[takdrvr]

1. Begin the process at a close range.

2. Sight in, shooting normally.

3. Come to full draw, grab bow and torque to one direction, re-center peep (through cables and string if needed) and execute shot. Note impact.

4. Come to full draw again, then torque bow in the opposite direction from what you did above. Re-center peep (through cables and string if needed) and execute shot. Note impact point.

5. Move arrow rest forward or back until all 3 shots impact the same dot.

6. Move to 40 yards and repeat.

 

[Billy Goat]

That makes sense. Can you create a more forgiving set up by moving the sight out? Or can it really only be accomplished by moving it in? You would think in general the closer to the riser the sight is the more forgiving when torque is applied.

A few bows I moved the sight out, a good ways actually.

Playing with several different bows I didn't find anything that was set in stone with it.

Somewhere at one time I had read some rules to follow with it. But I do it like most all my tuning, make adjustments, write down those adjustments, shoot. Modify adjustments according to results.

Again, I generally try to just do it with the sight, it's a relationship between sight and rest so I'm sure there's causation. Without using same rest on same grip you are going to have differences, not to mention brace height could be a factor as well.

 

[Samdemarais]

Thanks for the info, I have only messed with it on my current bow.