Traditional Clothing

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I hunt in a lot of old school wool and flannels, in fact my PFP jacket is a Filson.

Johnson, Weatherwool, Lester River, and Micklagaard, are your best bets for really high end woolen outerwear. If you want windproof/resistant with a liner, then you're kinda limited to Filson and their zip-in system, as far as I'm aware. Some companies weave tight enough that they are plenty wind resistant as is.

Filson Northwestern Wool Shirt, Pendelton Trail Shirt, and Kitsbow Icon are your best button-down shirt bets. I abuse the hell out of my Pendelton shirts all year, but the sleeves can be constricting when rolled up.
 

grfox92

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I'm looking to add some more "traditional" clothing to my arsenal such as flannels and wool products. Can any of you guys recommend some solid brands to check out? Really looking for a Flannel jacket with a windproof/resistant liner. Thanks
Cabela's wooltimate is not real wolf but is an excellent product. LL Bean and Columbia make some great affordable wool coats and pants also. I own the Cabela's and Columbia and they are great.

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Formidilosus

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The issue with the North American wool clothing such as Woolrich, Asbell, LL Bean, etc, etc. is that it is heavy, blocky, bulky. If that is what someone wants then no issue. I believe the fit, weight, and cut to be why more hunters don’t look at wool clothing in NA.

The Fjallraven Woolshell TST pants and jacket have a modern cut, and have worked very well from below 0° to 65’ish degrees. An American made option would be nice.
 
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Not trying to derail the OP, but what are people’s recommendations for warmer weather/ early season traditional clothing?
 

Dobermann

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Have been working with natural fibers the last few years over synthetics. Varusteleka out of Finland has wool pants and jackets that are top shelf made in Estonia, not Asia. The Sarma TST Woolshell pants and jackets are very high quality and feature a modern more fitted cut versus boxy, baggy traditional American wool clothing. I don’t have long experience with it, but Duckworth out of Montana seems to make very high quality wool garments as well.
Aclima Woolnet base layers are quite frankly the best base layer in the market.

Red Kettle makes jackets out of Ventile cotton that actually works as they say it does- it’s incredible. Fjallravens Keb trousers are fantastic. Etc, etc. There is actually quite a bit of really good clothing made out of natural fibers that other than a small weight penalty beats synthetics at nearly every other task.
Hi Form,

Fjallraven Kebs seem to come in a variety of designs ... which one do you suggest for cool to warm temps, moderate hiking?
 

mtwarden

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my top picks for "traditional" hunting clothing are Pendleton wool shirts, the lighter and tighter weave ones and Filson's whipcord pants- sadly currently discontinued, but they make a comeback every once in awhile
 

madcalfe

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Hi Form,

Fjallraven Kebs seem to come in a variety of designs ... which one do you suggest for cool to warm temps, moderate hiking?
i use the kebs trousers for sheep hunting and there perfect i have no complaints about them. there very comfortable and seem durable so far.
 

Dobermann

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? There’s only one Keb Trouser- has the side zips. I would suggest other them, or the Keb Gaiter trousers.
Thanks Form - turns out I was looking at a retailer that had them split into weird different listings based on colour and size. ;facepalm:

FWIW folks, I scored the last one of the Varusteleka Sarma TST Woolshell pants in 'green-brown' last night ... the site had a message saying they were unlikely to be restocked. However, they've just dropped a new all-green colour. Regular sizes are out of stock, but the shorts and longs are in-stock at the moment.
 

AMartin

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I hunt in a lot of old school wool and flannels, in fact my PFP jacket is a Filson.

Johnson, Weatherwool, Lester River, and Micklagaard, are your best bets for really high end woolen outerwear. If you want windproof/resistant with a liner, then you're kinda limited to Filson and their zip-in system, as far as I'm aware. Some companies weave tight enough that they are plenty wind resistant as is.

Filson Northwestern Wool Shirt, Pendelton Trail Shirt, and Kitsbow Icon are your best button-down shirt bets. I abuse the hell out of my Pendelton shirts all year, but the sleeves can be constricting when rolled up.
I hear the WeatherWool has a really good weave, that blocks some moderate winds, I just haven’t saved up enough money to buy any yet.
 

Dobermann

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@Fomiidilosus: What kinds of layers do you tend to use on top of the Woolnet?

Much of the rest of this thread tends has focussed on outer layers; what are you running for mid-layers?
 

Formidilosus

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@Fomiidilosus: What kinds of layers do you tend to use on top of the Woolnet?

Much of the rest of this thread tends has focussed on outer layers; what are you running for mid-layers?

Depends on temps and activities. If I’m moving with a pack, either just a windshirt or the Red Kettle jacket. I sweat so quickly that any insulation under the pack will be soaked quickly. If it is very, very cold (single digits or lower) and I am moving very slowly, a mid weight waffle fleece or more recently a jacket with 60 to 80 grams of Polartec Alpha- sometimes just the Woolnet and Alpha, sometimes with a wind shirt or Red Kettle over the Alpha. If I am not carrying a pack or it’s a very light pack and moving at a pace that I won’t sweat, the Varusteleka Woolshell jacket is fantastic.

In general I do not prescribe to the layer, layer, layer philosophy. That just adds bulk, the next layer compress the prior layer and reduces loft and insulation, is inefficient and heavy, and if I do sweat or it gets wet, drying those layers out with body heat takes longer than less layers. My standard for 0°-40’ish degrees is the Woolnet, a wind shirt/red kettle; a mid layer such as Polartec Alpha, high loft fleece, or a merino wool sweater, and preferably a puff jacket that is warm enough for stationary insulation down to zero. Unfortunately most commercially and readily available puffys do not have enough insulation for that use.
I have been using a SG Grumman and a FL Chamberlin the last few years together, but combining the 5oz fill of the SG with the 10oz of the Chamberlin does not equal a 15oz version nor even close to being good for 0° stationary. With more use and more people the temps that insulation is good for has been revised for me/us.
More than 6 weeks of near constant hunting and moving in the mountains this fall showed a significant drop of in physical comfort. When people are fresh 5oz of down with a good base layer and mid layer is good to about 35° stationary. The 10oz Chamberlin is good for about 25’ish degrees. However, when people are worn out or physiologically depressed, the Chamberlin isn’t enough for even an overcast 40° day. The results for me is that a custom jacket will have to be made.
 

Formidilosus

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All that above is for late fall and winter mountain conditions. Most of our activity is sporadic. That is mid to high exertion for a half day or day, then periods of near zero movement or physical activity, punctuated by very high aggressive movements. That prioritizes moisture management while moving, with absolute warmth while stationary. Earlier in the year or warmer temps would mean less insulation, and if it were more constant low to mid effort movement such as day hunts covering ground, then it changes.
 

tredell17

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Depends on temps and activities. If I’m moving with a pack, either just a windshirt or the Red Kettle jacket. I sweat so quickly that any insulation under the pack will be soaked quickly. If it is very, very cold (single digits or lower) and I am moving very slowly, a mid weight waffle fleece or more recently a jacket with 60 to 80 grams of Polartec Alpha- sometimes just the Woolnet and Alpha, sometimes with a wind shirt or Red Kettle over the Alpha. If I am not carrying a pack or it’s a very light pack and moving at a pace that I won’t sweat, the Varusteleka Woolshell jacket is fantastic.

In general I do not prescribe to the layer, layer, layer philosophy. That just adds bulk, the next layer compress the prior layer and reduces loft and insulation, is inefficient and heavy, and if I do sweat or it gets wet, drying those layers out with body heat takes longer than less layers. My standard for 0°-40’ish degrees is the Woolnet, a wind shirt/red kettle; a mid layer such as Polartec Alpha, high loft fleece, or a merino wool sweater, and preferably a puff jacket that is warm enough for stationary insulation down to zero. Unfortunately most commercially and readily available puffys do not have enough insulation for that use.
I have been using a SG Grumman and a FL Chamberlin the last few years together, but combining the 5oz fill of the SG with the 10oz of the Chamberlin does not equal a 15oz version nor even close to being good for 0° stationary. With more use and more people the temps that insulation is good for has been revised for me/us.
More than 6 weeks of near constant hunting and moving in the mountains this fall showed a significant drop of in physical comfort. When people are fresh 5oz of down with a good base layer and mid layer is good to about 35° stationary. The 10oz Chamberlin is good for about 25’ish degrees. However, when people are worn out or physiologically depressed, the Chamberlin isn’t enough for even an overcast 40° day. The results for me is that a custom jacket will have to be made.
Where did you purchase the Red Kettle jacket from? I wasn't able to find any resellers in Canada/USA and each search brings up salvation Army links.

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For new wool stuff I like first lite. It’s held up well for me and fits me right. My old Filson stuff is awesome and probably what you’re actually looking for. Filson seems like they’ve changed gears though the last few years and caters to the hipster crowd now. Their customer service used to be outstanding and the last time I had an issue with something they gave me the run around and didn’t want to warranty something I bought since it was from a sporting goods store and not one of their company stores. You can still find their older stuff used on Poshmark or eBay though, and if it’s in good shape it is typically really solid stuff. Their wool base layers are legit and the mackinaw coats are incredible.
 
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Pendleton and filson. Both are awesome but cost so much $$$ you hardly want to wear them outside.

the bushcrafting world is big on wool. I bought a wool’ anorak last year and it is pretty cool. Boreal mountain gear seems to be the top of the heap.

Sportsman’s guide still has some cool military surplus. If you dig around there is still a lot of European army gear in wool that is awesome for hunting.
 
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