Trouble tuning hoyt bow

Big.Jav

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Looking to see if some one had a similar issue. I just changed the strings and cables on a carbon spyder turbo all the strings and cables are in the rails on the cams. I set my nocking point the way I had it before with in an 1/8" of the Berger button but when I go to draw the bow it is much more difficult to draw it even though I turned the poundage down to put it in the press to change the strings. It also creaks on the upper limb/cam assembly now when I draw it and even though the nocking point is roughly level with the button when I come to full draw the arrow is way below level almost as if the bow is being drawn from the top third of the bow string. Any help is appreciated
 

LongbowLogan

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Sounds like your cam timing is way off, you should put it on a draw board so you can see what's going on.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

Brendan

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Agreed with above. Need to check/set your cam timing on a draw board. I'd also measure your draw weight with a digital scale at the same time - depending on your cables the poundage could be off from spec even if the limb bolts are bottomed out.
 

jmez

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First thing to do is make sure you have all of the cable ends routed correctly. Go the wrong way around a peg and it will feel like the bow is pulling way too heavy, or not even draw. If the routing is correct, as said above, you will need to reset everything. Depending on the string builder, you may have to put a lot of twists in the buss cable to it into specs. I have had more problems with lengths on custom strings for a Hoyt than I ever did with my Bowtech's.

Did you change them yourself or have it done?
 

Brendan

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have had more problems with lengths on custom strings for a Hoyt than I ever did with my Bowtech's.

Funny you mention that - but my draw length is almost 3/4" off from the cam setting and I have one of my buss cable legs with a heck of a lot of twists in it after replacing strings on my turbo, and initially the poundage was way low. Everything's where I need it to be right now, but I've been suspicious that the lengths were slightly off, I've just been too lazy to pull the bow apart and measure once I got everything adjusted and shooting right.
 

justin davis

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I would check timing. Sometimes the new strings are off a bit. Sometimes the bow was out of spec and the new strings bring it back into spec. I would make sure the strings are good and shot in. And then make sure the timing is correct. Check poundage, ata, brace and get it close to factory specs
 

225nontypical

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most people covered it above. I always like to check the poundage before I change out strings and cables. this is a good reference for an initial check once I have changed them out. you will also need to check your cam timing and cam lean and retune the bow. once you've done that shooting for 50-100 shots and check it again. everything should have settled in by then and adjust as needed.
 

Dameon

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Ugh. I've been dealing with this lately too. I just put on a set of strings over the weekend and despite the fact that they were built to Hoyt's exact specifications on the tune chart, it turns out that most string builders build the buss cable 1/16th to 1/8th short and the control cable 1/8th long because Hoyt's specs are known to be off for a good number of their bows. If your harness is built to Hoyt's exact specifications like mine were on their tune charts, your top cam will most likely be at least an inch behind the bottom cam for cam timing. If that is the case and you are determined to make your new strings work, you will need to do the following:

You have to take out as many twists as you can from the control cable and/or add twists to the bottom of the buss cable to advance the top cam. If you run out of twists to take out of the control cable or can't add any more twists to the bottom of the buss cable without making the twists bunch up, you may have to add equal twists to each yoke leg to get the cams in time. Then run an arrow down the side of your top cam to make sure the arrow starts to intersect (without completely crossing) the string at the nocking point. This sets your top cam for proper pre-lean with a center shot set at 13/16 plus or minus a 1/16th. Make adjustments to your yoke until this happens. When you are all done, you'll most likely find that the measured AMO draw length is now nearly 1/2 inch long and the bow under stated draw weight by about 2-3 pounds. You won't be able to twist the string up enough to take up the extra draw length, so you are better off moving down to a 1/2 inch smaller draw module and adding two twists to each cable to bring your draw weight back up. Fine tune everything with bareshafts and yoke tuning to get everything perfect with perfect arrow flight.

In the end, this is what I did and wound up adding 5 1/2 twists to the buss cable and yokes to get my cams timed correctly, plus an extra two twists to the yokes and control cable to get the poundage up, plus moving the mods down a 1/2 inch. That is 7 1/2 twists total in the buss cable and yokes and 0 extra twists in the control cable since I added back what I took out. If 2 twists equals 1/16th of an inch, then I had to adjust my cables nearly a 1/4 inch. Ideally, you would want that much adjustment spread out over both cables in order to keep the DW and DL in spec. One email to my string builder the next day and several going back and forth from him on exactly what I needed over the weekend and I got myself a replacement set on the way under warranty. The new set will be 1/8th short on the buss cable, 1/8th long on the control cable, string built to spec, and when installed I should be a 1/2 twist from perfection.

So.....long story short. Keep track of what changes you make to your new harness. If things end up out of spec, contact your string builder and let them now.
 

225nontypical

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Ugh. I've been dealing with this lately too. I just put on a set of strings over the weekend and despite the fact that they were built to Hoyt's exact specifications on the tune chart, it turns out that most string builders build the buss cable 1/16th to 1/8th short and the control cable 1/8th long because Hoyt's specs are known to be off for a good number of their bows. If your harness is built to Hoyt's exact specifications like mine were on their tune charts, your top cam will most likely be at least an inch behind the bottom cam for cam timing. If that is the case and you are determined to make your new strings work, you will need to do the following:

You have to take out as many twists as you can from the control cable and/or add twists to the bottom of the buss cable to advance the top cam. If you run out of twists to take out of the control cable or can't add any more twists to the bottom of the buss cable without making the twists bunch up, you may have to add equal twists to each yoke leg to get the cams in time. Then run an arrow down the side of your top cam to make sure the arrow starts to intersect (without completely crossing) the string at the nocking point. This sets your top cam for proper pre-lean with a center shot set at 13/16 plus or minus a 1/16th. Make adjustments to your yoke until this happens. When you are all done, you'll most likely find that the measured AMO draw length is now nearly 1/2 inch long and the bow under stated draw weight by about 2-3 pounds. You won't be able to twist the string up enough to take up the extra draw length, so you are better off moving down to a 1/2 inch smaller draw module and adding two twists to each cable to bring your draw weight back up. Fine tune everything with bareshafts and yoke tuning to get everything perfect with perfect arrow flight.

In the end, this is what I did and wound up adding 5 1/2 twists to the buss cable and yokes to get my cams timed correctly, plus an extra two twists to the yokes and control cable to get the poundage up, plus moving the mods down a 1/2 inch. That is 7 1/2 twists total in the buss cable and yokes and 0 extra twists in the control cable since I added back what I took out. If 2 twists equals 1/16th of an inch, then I had to adjust my cables nearly a 1/4 inch. Ideally, you would want that much adjustment spread out over both cables in order to keep the DW and DL in spec. One email to my string builder the next day and several going back and forth from him on exactly what I needed over the weekend and I got myself a replacement set on the way under warranty. The new set will be 1/8th short on the buss cable, 1/8th long on the control cable, string built to spec, and when installed I should be a 1/2 twist from perfection.

So.....long story short. Keep track of what changes you make to your new harness. If things end up out of spec, contact your string builder and let them now.

I have heard the same thing many times. I believe my string builder does exactly what you are talking about and builds the buss cable short and control cable long. my last set I only had to add a twist and then yoke tune and I was done
 

jmez

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Finding the right builder for a Hoyt is key. I went through all of this stuff prior to using Parknson's strings. He's now quit building them for the public so not sure what I'll do next. I may just go with the Fuse strings.
 
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Big.Jav

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Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it. Im going to try and put it on a draw board and hopefully that will reveal the problem. It's just weird how the bow feels like it's got a lot heavier draw since I changed the strings and cables and that's even after I backed the poundage way down. I changed the strings with some winners choice hoping that the peep would quit rotating but I'm going to have to start playing with twisting the cables which is something I didn't want to do. The frustrating thing is that I marked the cams with a piece of masking tape before I took the old ones off trying to prevent this, well what am I supposed to do you can't make a cake without breaking a few eggs
 

jmez

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If it is pulling that hard you may have the cables on incorrectly. Mine always decrease in peak weight with a change and have to twist cables to increase it back to where it should be.
 

225nontypical

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Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it. Im going to try and put it on a draw board and hopefully that will reveal the problem. It's just weird how the bow feels like it's got a lot heavier draw since I changed the strings and cables and that's even after I backed the poundage way down. I changed the strings with some winners choice hoping that the peep would quit rotating but I'm going to have to start playing with twisting the cables which is something I didn't want to do. The frustrating thing is that I marked the cams with a piece of masking tape before I took the old ones off trying to prevent this, well what am I supposed to do you can't make a cake without breaking a few eggs

I would look up some pictures online and make sure everything is routed correctly. did you check your draw weight before and then after you changed the strings and cables? I'v had guys bring me their bow and tell me its maxed at 70 and when I check it before changing the string's out its at 64. If you turned it down and it still is really hard to draw it sounds like something is not routed correctly. post some pictures of both the top and bottom cam and the roller guard if you can
 

OR Archer

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If your bow gained a lot of weight there would be two causes. First is you have wrong length cables( too short). Second and most likely is you have the control cable routed incorrectly on the bottom cam. If it's routed from the bottom over the top it will make the poundage increase dramatically.
 
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Big.Jav

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If your bow gained a lot of weight there would be two causes. First is you have wrong length cables( too short). Second and most likely is you have the control cable routed incorrectly on the bottom cam. If it's routed from the bottom over the top it will make the poundage increase dramatically.

You were right it was the cables, I monkeyed around with them and got it to work. I just finished putting the peep sight and D loop now I just need to put on some speed nocks and it ready to go
 

roadrunner

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Retune your bow according to timing and draw weight. Ex: 70 lb Hoyt limbs maxed out shouldn't exceed 72 lbs draw weight.

Yep, it was all covered above.
 
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