Truck Lighting Upgrades INW / First impression is VERY positive!

rbljack

WKR
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Dec 5, 2014
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Snyder Texas
So early this week, I had one of my low beams out, and the very next day lost a fog beam bulb as well. I have an 04 Chevy avalanche (without body armor) which means its the same front end as the "cat eye" Silverado's. My headlamp lenses are somewhat yellowed and cloudy as well. Knowing I got pulled over a week prior for a license plate bulb out (yes...I really did get pulled over for that, or at least that was what they said was the reason for pulling me over and got a warning) I decided it was time to do an upgrade. So I spent an evening looking thru LED replacement bulbs for High and Low beam headlights, fog lights, interior lights, back up lights, etc.

This may be long, but figured id post it and it may help some people out. Because we all drive out beyond the towns, where lighting may be little to none on dirt back roads, and muddy two track where we hope to find critters, I thought this might be beneficial.

I ordered all the lights I think I need to replace interior and exterior lighting with the exception of the turn signals. I decided against replacing those because I would have to splice in "load resistors" into the circuit, which I feel is just another failure point, and didn't think the mod was worth the effort. Tonight, some of the bulbs arrived at the house, so I got started. I will add to this post as more of the lights get replaced and maybe it will help a few people who are on the fence, or want some help walking through the process.

Lets start at the back of the truck, there are three bulbs in my Avalanche...the turn signals are the bulbs in the middle and I left those as incandesant. All three bulbs were the 3157 type bulbs.

I replaced the Brake light bulb and the back up light bulb tonight. I went with these:
Auxbeam 3157 LED Light Bulbs T25 P27/5W Turn Signal Light Bulb High Power 33-SMD Light Bulb Super Bright Xenon White Led Bulb for Switchback, Reverse Light.

Important note on LED replacements: If you do this, they will only work one way. Put the bulbs in, and if they don't work.....pull them out of the sockets and turn them 180 and reinsert them if the sockets aren't slotted or keyed. It took two sets of the bulbs to do the tail light assemblies at a cost of about 30 bucks (again, not including the turn signal bulbs). You could save $15 and just do the reverse lights. I really didn't see a "wow" difference on the running light/brake light....BUT switching the reverse light to LED was worth it. Why is this important? Well, when backing up, and there are trees and ditches around, or parked cars, shopping carts, etc etc etc....having more lighting is a plus! They also stay on for about 30 seconds after hitting the key fob when exiting and locking the vehicle. The brightness difference was noticeable, and worth the swap IMO. At some point in the future, I may cut holes in the bumper and add some flush mount lights back there on a switch, but for now what I have works fine.

I then moved to the front of the truck and did a quick swap of the Fog lamp bulbs. They are easy to access on this version of vehicle. In doing research, I know from past experience I could put a high beam bulb into the fog lamp socket instead of what Chevy calls for when you look them up. A 9005 type bulb will fit (they did in mine at least....) , so here is what I used for the fog lights:

Auxbeam 9005 Led Headlight Bulbs F-M3 Series 50W 5000lm 6500K ZES LED Chip Single Beam Headlight Conversion kit. These were around 60 bucks for one set on Amazon. Not cheap, but.....

These proved to be a BIG improvement of the stock fog lamps during clear nighttime conditions. I cant speak for how well they will work in fog, rain or snow yet, or will they fail when going thru a creek crossing , or how well they will hold up under miles of washboard road conditions because I just got them....but for now they illuminate the sides of the road and the ditches where critters hide MUCH better than the stock fog/driving lights! I don't have my headlight lenses in yet, so I'm holding off on replacing the Hi/Low beam headlights for now.

Moving to the interior, I replaced the two dome shaped "map lights" for the driver and passenger over to LED tonight. Here are the bulbs I used for this:

Auxbeam 194 LED Bulbs 6000K White Super Bright 5730 Chipsets T10 W5W 168 2825 LED Lights Replacement Bulbs for License Plate Lights, Intrior Car Lights, Map Door Dashboard Reading Lights. A package of 10 is $14 bucks on amazon.

This is another replacement worth doing! Much brighter than the stock lights when you are sitting on the side of a dirt road trying to read a map, find what fell on the floorboard or between the seats, or whatever. This same size light is also used in the door lights (they are the ones that light up on the door panel) so I replaced those. They do give a bit more light on the ground outside the truck with the door open. That consumes 4 of the 10 lights in the pack. I still need to put 2 in the license plate lights, and one in the truck bed light, and I think there are two used in the lens assemblies when I get around to doing that.

That's what I have done for now. I'm still waiting on more parts, so more to come later. I plan to replace the main interior overhead light still, the lights in the mirrors that shine downward for entrance/exit, the license plate lights, High beams, low beams, and Daytime Running lights on the front, and the light in the bed of the truck. Aftermarket light bars are a consideration for me at some point, but I need to get all my stock lights working again first....and figured it was the right time to do the switch to LED.
 
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5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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I've been complaining about my headlights in my 2001 F-350 for some time now. So my wife got me the LED replacement lights and housings. They came with the running lights etc too, but I only put in the headlights as that's all I cared about improving. I've always loved the "white" LED light instead of the yellow normal lights even in my flashlights, and these don't disappoint. I can actually see the road now.
 
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rbljack

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Yes I didn't mention that above, but I agree from what I'm seeing so far. I'm looking forward to seeing the difference when the headlight bulbs and lenses are replaced.
 
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Make sure you aim them after installation.


Didn't use to bother me but everyone putting in bright lowbeams now. Don't need to blind the dually that's about to pass you. I only half care about the sides of the truck so long as it will keep driving.
 

SouthPaw

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Ugh. That's gotta be producing a ton of glare in old factory halogen headlight/fog housings. Oncoming traffic isn't going to like that. Either stay with halogen bulbs or do it proper with projectors/housings engineered for the specific LED light source. Not to mention a super bright foreground from high power foglamps actually hurts your driving vision by dilating your pupils and taking your focus away from "down the road" where it should be.


Knock yourself out on the interior bulbs though.
 
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rbljack

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The new lenses showed up tonight for the headlights....so high and low beams will be going in tomorrow. And yes, I do need to re-align the fog lights. The point of aim needs to be adjusted down a bit...but the visibility is greatly improved. I guess I really shouldn't be calling them fog lights though, the more correct term might be driving lights. I will have to wait for foggy conditions to see if they improve or hamper visibility under those conditions.
 

EasilyExcited

Lil-Rokslider
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Jan 20, 2016
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266
Check out the britebox. It turns on high beam low beam and the fogs all at the same time . I have used mine alot and no issues with burning up wiring
 

GotDraw?

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All-

FYI- Standard H4, 9003 or other halogen headlight housings are NOT designed for LED replacement bulbs. NOT AT ALL. They are designed for a halogen filament that produces light in a extremely precise and small area- think hundredths of an inch of accuracy. LED chips are huge by comparison and ruin the focal capabilities of stock halogen housings

If you install LEDs in a halogen housing, you will NOT have a clear cutoff anymore and you will simply be throwing light all over god's creation-- everywhere and in everyone's eyes instead of in a controlled pattern.

I've done a ridiculous amount of research on this.

Here is a link to the absolute right way to do a lighting system upgrade if you choose to keep your existing halogen headlight housings. This guy is an automotive engineer who is NOT touting a product. He has done a helluva lot of fact-based research on how to upgrade H4 or 9003 halogen bulbs. Impressive and better yet, factual.

ULTIMATE HEADLIGHT UPGRADE

I did this upgrade to my Jeep XJ Cherokee and my brother's 3 (yes 3) Tacomas. All are now running 85/80w halogen bulbs that focus amazing amounts of light on the road surface where you need it on low beam and will absolutely light up the world on high beam when you're in the wilds. Our friends are stunned with the light and beam patterns.

I used the Headlight Services Harness (referenced in the above link) for all vehicles and got my bulbs here: 85/80W H4 bulbs [NOTE- pricing is for TEN (10) bulbs!]

You can even run 130/100w bulbs if you want using the Headlight Services relay harness. Keep in mind that the higher the wattage, the shorter lived your bulbs, but I've had mine over year now and still going strong.

Don't bother running high wattage bulbs w/o a HEAVY duty relay harness, you will burn your stock switch or burn and short your wiring. Read the article I linked and learn to do it right.

Hope this helps!

JL
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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The LED housing kits for headlights are pretty cheap......like $60-$80 for both sides. Replacing my badly yellowed halogen housings that wouldn't buff clear with new halogen replacements was like $80 for each side, about twice as expensive. And it took about 15 minutes per side to change each side out as soon as I figured out what I was doing.

But getting them in the right position is harder than with halogens. Halogens you can just point at your garage door or wall and adjust them easily. The LED's don't seem to have that pinpoint shine where you can see where they are pointing........unless you're on a back road somewhere in complete darkness, and then you can adjust them as needed.

The other thing.......there is almost no difference at all between high and low beams with the LED's.......at least what shines on the road. They even tell you that in the literature that comes with them.
 
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I'm thinking about installing a really bright light bar, aiming it at the opposite lane, and blasting all the dimwits that incorrectly put light upgrades on their vehicles. Seriously.

I'm as tinker driven as anyone. I like bright lights to see as well as anyone. But, I also have been on the receiving end of about 10,000 of these upgrades done incorrectly or, with no thought or regards to what it does to the opposing lane. And, realize that seeing is great but, blinding the person trying to drive by you is eventually going to get you hit, run out of the road, etc..... Just do it right and, with common sense fellas.
 

Randle

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Dec 30, 2012
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Nope
At 57 my eyes like more light too , but some of these new lights are ridiculous. When they are coming at you and aimed wrong or not done properly they get brights at them all the time from other drivers. Especially in a jacked up, pavement pounder, look at me girls, pretty boy trucks.
 

2rsquared

Lil-Rokslider
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Jan 29, 2018
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189
Location
Texas
I tried putting LED's in the taillights of my '05 GMC. Caused the cruise control to stop working.

YouTube'd it, and sure enough it was the LED light bulbs not having the right resistance and telling the computer that my taillights were out. The cruise control stops working as an indicator to check/replace your taillights.

Put standard bulbs back in and cruise control was back to normal and working as it should.

For headlights, I went with these halogen bulbs. OSRAM. Cast a good tight and long beam...and I don't get flashed by oncoming traffic.
d6df7e2730fdac6bcf8655dbf631877f.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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rbljack

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Well I guess I need to jump back on here and put another post up and try to keep things moving in the right direction here. First off.....im just trying to help a few people out by putting the info out there. Agreed...I don't like being blinded by oncoming traffic either. First, to the poster who commented about the difference in the LED vs Halogens related to the filament length...there is some truth to that. I did try to find a bulb style that more closely matched the correct filament length and placement. Additionally, it is true that the new bulbs do not throw the same pattern as the halogens. I completed the install over the weekend and overall it went well. I then went to a location where I was able to aim the new set up. I adjusted the fog/driving lights, and the headlamp assemblies to try and mimic the same locations as the old beams. I used tape on a garage door to mark the old aim points, and then re-aligned to that with the LEDS. I think some of yall are under the impression that I'm out to go super crazy bright, and blind everyone....but that's not the case. At 50 years old, "I'm not out to impress the girls either"....LOL randle. My truck is a stock Chevy Avalanche set up to be my daily driver and hunting/camping rig. I'm like you, looking to see better in the dark. My use for this was to see better at night when driving in areas with poor lighting, and it works! Ive run the silverstars halogen bulbs for years and they help. I did put a high beam lamp into the driving light location, and its worked well for me for years. Keep them aimed low and they work well. After the install, I can tell you that the ditches are lit up VERY well when running low beams and fog/driving lights. I can also tell you that deer eyes "light up" at further distances with the LEDs from what I encountered in my driving over the weekend. I spotted deer at further distances along the ditches which was the primary goal. I also did a 3 hr trip in the dark this weekend after the install, and as a test I did run the low beams and driving lights on while going down the highway to see if someone would "flash back". Over the course of 3 hours not once did that happen...so my alignment seems to be working ok. I would not normally run the driving lights going down the highways anyways. I wanted them for backroad driving AND staying legal. Its not legal to drive down pubic roads using the aftermarket light bars. The roads im talking about are backroads, and mtn roads where we see animals. Not while driving to the grocery store. Hope that helps clarify things.

AND LASTLY>….2RSQUARED NAILED IT. I discovered my cruise control was not working on the 3 hr trip and figured it might have something to do with the install. My daytime running lights weren't on during daylight today, so I thought maybe because I have them in "reversed biased" that it might be affecting the cruise circuit also. I plan to check on that this week. BUT....Thanks so much for your input. If it isn't the DRL problem, I will put halogen bulbs back in the taillight slot and see if cruise comes back. Thanks for that!!! Big nugget of info right there.

And yes...while making the trip, at the first gas stop I checked the fuse for the cruise control circuit, it was good. Its most likely the taillight LED's based on the 2rsquared input and a few quick google searches.
 
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Joined
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NW Arkansas
Yes it is the leds in your brake lights messing with your cruise. Swap them back and everything will work fine. I have an 03 Tahoe and did all this years ago. I also did the 4 on hi mod, where your low beams, fogs, and deals will all stay on when switching to brights. Easy with a plate I order for $25 online.
 
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