Tuning for BH's, here's what I do.....

[Beendare]

Many different tuning methods with a compound, Heres a flow chart of what I do;


1) Make sure you aren't under spined...or even close to under spined. This is the #1 reason many guys can't get their setup to shoot BH's to the same POI as FP's.

2) Form Flaws; many guys have alignment issues that cause erratic shooting or inconsistent results. Example; Even a tiny grip adjustment can make my arrows go from shooting a bullet hole in paper to a 1" tear. Check your alignment. Erratic groups...or erratic paper tears indicates a form issue.

3) confirm you are shooting perfectly straight arrows. Just spinning them on a table isn't enough- use a jig to confirm perfect straightness and perfect BH seating. A couple one thousandths off in 1 1/2" of your BH on the steering end of your arrow makes a big difference and it isn't always visible when spinning.

BOW WISE

4) Confirm on a draw board your cams are tuned right- rolling over perfect [some bows like one cam slightly advanced for a better tune, many don't]

5) Set your rest to factory spec center shot...and confirm you don't have any fletching contact to throw the arrow off

NOTE; When a BH tipped arrow won't group with FP's that tells you that the arrow isn't coming out of the bow perfectly straight- the BH is causing it to plane a tiny bit [even Mech heads will do this] Many times its an under spined condition exacerbating this...or improper arrow assembly- see #3 above

Once the above is accomplished;

I paper test FP's for a bullet hole at 3,6,12 yards...moving my rest IN TINY 1/32" adjustments the opposite of where the point is on the tear. If you are not getting consistent tears [even when not adjusted for a bullet hole- then look in the mirror- grin- its probably form related. Tiny grip adjustments...or videoing your shooting help diagnose the issue.

Once I have a bullet hole with FP's....thats the 1/2 way point of tuning for a bowhunter

I move on to BH tuning.....shooting groups of BH's and FP's at longer range 40,50 yds or more.

When BH tuning....I chase the FP with my rest. So if my BH's are left of my FP's, I move the rest a 32nd to the right.

I'VE NEVER HAD TO MOVE MY REST MORE THAN 1/16" ONCE ITS PAPER TUNED TO GET BH'S TO FLY PERFECT.

This is a critical statement^. If you are chasing your FP's and the rest is getting further and further away from factory recommended center shot- STOP. Assuming you did everything above correctly to this point...then here is what happened; You overshot with your paper tune adjustment. Continuing to move in the FP direction is the wrong way. Go the opposite direction, tiny increments- no more than a 1/16"...never failed for me.

What many don't realize; Paper tuning only gets you close and SOMETIMES YOU OVER SHOOT with your adjustments. I've had it happen to me, when I move my rest to chase my FP arrows....and keep moving and moving...and its still doesn't tune. The reason for that is I over shot it when paper tuning. When I go back to my initial setting and move it the OPPOSITE of chasing my FP's- BAM, my BH's group with my FP's. Key is tiny adjustments....and if you go past that 1/6" inch or so from factory....you more than likely need to go the other way.

I've never had a bow I couldn't BH tune....or multiple large fixed heads of the same weight that won't fly in multiple compound bows. Anyone saying it cannot be done -plain and simple- has not followed the guide above....or they are shooting a very critical bow/arrow setup [ie fast/light]

An over spined arrow works fine in a compound bow [one spine size over] whereas under spined or borderline arrows are much more critical. If you have to use a tiny low profile BH to get your bow to tune; your arrow spine or form is suspect.

Personally, it gives me confidence to know that every BH arrow flies perfect and will hit where I’m aiming if I do my job. For that reason I use a system consisting of a strong Cut on Contact resharpen-able BH that I can shoot and check each one making sure it flies perfect [no guesswork] …then I touch it up razor sharp and in my quiver. I can’t do that with some replaceable blade or mech heads.

NEWS FLASH- you cannot just screw a BH on and assume it flies like your FP's unless you go through the steps...I've seen it time after time with some friends and clients I've guided. You have to test if you want 100% accuracy.

I'm shooting multiple 150gr BH's in my compound and recurve- all shoot to the same POI as my FP's at 50 yds. Reason it works; I'm shooting a forgiving setup, arrow isn't underpinned, in fact its a little over.... thats avg weight [500gr] so its not a critical setup like some of the fast and light setups out there.


Hope that helps.....and it gives me a bookmarked thread to send guys to.

 

[5 shot group]

Good info, thank you.

When I get home Tuesday I will be starting my BH tuning and this will help.

 

[Beendare]

Of course this thread is to help the new bowhunters that can't get their BH's to group, most here already have a tuning method they like and works. A Vegas competitor would laugh at this simplistic tuning guide...

At this point some are going to say; I bare shaft tune, French tune...many ways to skin a cat. ...and all work....no argument there. Some prefer to Yoke tune or make other adjustments vs moving the rest....that works with some bows better than others.

I find this method easy as at every step along the way, if there is a problem, the diagnostic is easy.

The 'givens' in the first couple paragraphs are important whatever tuning method you use.

One of the tricks a guy can use is once he has everything in tune, mark you cams and take every measurement....so that when you change strings, you can get it back. It helps to know if something stretches and is out of spec, too.

some try to shortcut these steps- say not checking their cam rollover...if there is a problem with BH flight hitting with FP's......and you may have to start all over from scratch.

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[Reburn]

Thank you for taking the time on the write up.

 

[SDHNTR]

Good methodology. I do basically the same. I’m meticulous with yoke tuning and the rest at centershot to get a perfect bullet hole at multiple distances from point blank to about 12 yards. Once I do that, 9 times out of 10, screw on a broadhead and as long as it spins true, it shoots right with fps. Sometimes it might take some minor rest tuning.

I’ll also twist my my nocks to change cock vane orientation. Sometimes that will tighten up a bh tune too.

 

[OR Archer]

Did you really mean to say you chase your FP with your rest?

 

[Beendare]

Good methodology. I do basically the same. I’m meticulous with yoke tuning and the rest at centershot to get a perfect bullet hole at multiple distances from point blank to about 12 yards. Once I do that, 9 times out of 10, screw on a broadhead and as long as it spins true, it shoots right with fps. Sometimes it might take some minor rest tuning.

I’ll also twist my my nocks to change cock vane orientation. Sometimes that will tighten up a bh tune too.

Good points, thanks for chiming in.

 

[Beendare]

Did you really mean to say you chase your FP with your rest?

Yes sir.

I explained why this doesn't always work and you have to move the opposite direction some times. The bare shaft tuning guys point out the flaw in Paper tuning with FP's -and they are right!-sometimes you over shoot on the adjustments. So if you are past what works for perfect center shot of a BH tipped arrow, it doesn't make it better to strictly follow tuning guide recommendations to continue in the wrong direction.

The plus to paper tuning with FP's- is you are typically very close to a good BH tune, IME within 1/16" with a good FP paper tune- or better....as the experienced bowhunter SD mentioned above.

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[Rancher]

Thank you for taking the time to post this information,lots of it here.

 

[Blockcaver]

Excellent advice in B’s Initial post.

And one easy quick test I usually use to verify what is happening with broadhead flight is to shoot at close range...about 6’ and into an area on a broadhead target without previous holes. Observe the nock end of the arrow to see what it is doing versus “straight-in”. Tells you which way to move a rest or nock-set very quickly. And I find it just as effective as paper tuning. Drop your eye to the launch height of the arrow to read the angle it went into the Broadhead target.

Good luck, fall season is close for many, and here in a few spots.

 

[Beendare]

Note;
There is conflicting advice on tuning....and some are right!

The key takeaway from the first post....Start with factory center shot.....and when you get your FP's paper tuned [usually a tiny adjustment] ...it could be a move either way of center to get your BH's grouping...BUT IT AIN'T MUCH. More than a 1/16" and something isn't right.

There are guys that bareshft tune, yoke adjust and chase BH groups successfully...and some of these indicate opposite movements....it can get very confusing.

Some guys pulling into their face too hard will cause an opposite reaction.

Many say there are hard and fast absolute rules....all I know is when you do the first steps and get those FP's paper tuned...it's just a little bit of tweaking to get your BH's perfect.

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