Tuning issue

[DEIdeven]

I’m having issues I started with a bare shaft and got it about as perfect as perfect could get then when I added my fletching it started with this high left tear all I can imagine is contact is causing it but is it possible to have that much contact with what I would imagine is the perfect spine seeing as the bare shaft tear is so good? Also new to trad but not archery so this is all new to me

 

[Justin.Medcalf]

For the stick bow bareshafting is the best way to check spine. Shoot a couple bareshafts mixed with fletched arrows and see how they group. Ignore the nock end just see where they group. Once they group together or slightly weak your good. Whats your bow and arrow setup? That looks like heavy contact for sure. Feathers, trad vanes, or vanes? Shelf or elevated rest?

 

[DEIdeven]

Bow setup bear takedown 51 lbs 29.5” victory rip 300 30.25” 256 gr up front 4fletch trad vane off bear weather rest

 

[oldgoat]

Left hand or right hand? Split or three under, if three under, do you have a second nock point under the arrow? What distance after you shooting at?

 

[DEIdeven]

Right hand three under no second nocking point about 8 feet

 

[Wrench]

What's the center cut like on those. I'm 10 grains heavier up front and shoot 400's well in 3 of my 50-55# bows.

 

[GLB]

It diffidently looks like a contact issue. 3 things I would look at:

1. Spine - that combo looks a bit stiff to me, if so that can make the arrow contact the shelf/riser.

2. Nock Point - too high can look the same as too low= contact.

3. Fletch clearance - maybe rotate your arrow nocks to get better clearance. Also try feathers to see if you get same results.

 

[oldgoat]

Right hand three under no second nocking point about 8 feet

Try adding a second nock point under the arrow, vanes may be causing it to slip down the string where the bare shaft didn't. If you don't have one you can wrap a little bit of masking tape around to test, just leave a little wiggle room so you don't get nock pinch! I've seen this a number of times and read even more times of instances of arrow slipping with three under. Worth a shot!

 

[Goose10]

More than likely a clearance issue. I used to shoot the Bear Weather Rest years ago and it was ok at best. It tended to wear as time went on and maybe even changed the height of the arrow on the rest. It is somewhat flexible but probably not flexible enough to use vanes. You are limited on rotating the nock with four fletch so your only other option might be a different rest like a flipper rest. Best option would be to refletch with feathers if possible.

 

[Justin.Medcalf]

Bow setup bear takedown 51 lbs 29.5” victory rip 300 30.25” 256 gr up front 4fletch trad vane off bear weather rest

I shoot 51 lbs at 29". I am using full length 340 bemans with 260 grains up front. I also shoot three under which you do not need a second nocking point just for reference. I would put money that your spine is too stiff, if you can shave off the little tab on the weather rest that is on the side plate and try that. I shoot off of a weather rest and that helped me. You can also try moving your nocking point up farther than you would think. I had to run 3/4 high to get good flight with bareshaft.

 

[Beendare]

It diffidently looks like a contact issue. 3 things I would look at:

1. Spine - that combo looks a bit stiff to me, if so that can make the arrow contact the shelf/riser.

2. Nock Point - too high can look the same as too low= contact.

3. Fletch clearance - maybe rotate your arrow nocks to get better clearance. Also try feathers to see if you get same results.

Agreed on all 3.

You are too stiff. You want to be stiff in a modern compound....but a stick bow has to have perfect spine- archers paradox.

I'm shooting 50# in my recurve, 30" DL, arrows full length 31 1/4" long with 225gr up front ...and my 340's bare shaft perfect. You might even need 400's as my arrows are long.

 

[Brucebarker024]

For the stick bow bareshafting is the best way to check spine. Shoot a couple bareshafts mixed with fletched arrows and see how they group. Ignore the nock end just see where they group. Once they group together or slightly weak your good. Whats your bow and arrow setup? That looks like heavy contact for sure. Feathers, trad vanes, or vanes? Shelf or elevated rest?

I just started in traditional archery too and this is the first time I’ve heard to ignore the nock end and just go off of impact. I have 350s at 32 inches with 300 up front grouping with my fletched arrows but my nock is about 4 inches to the right. So I cut the rest at 33 inches (because I thought 32 was too stiff due to the nock end) and have been shooting them but I have constant rights. Like 2 inches at 20 yards at all times. So should I go off of impact more so than nock/impact?


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[GLB]

^^^ I have the best results using bare shaft impact vs bare shaft nock orientation. I find that I like the bare shaft to show very slight weak, maybe 2” of my aiming point @ 20 yards. I’ll confirm that also at 30.

Do this over several days, your release must be clean to get accurate results.

 

[Justin.Medcalf]

I just started in traditional archery too and this is the first time I’ve heard to ignore the nock end and just go off of impact. I have 350s at 32 inches with 300 up front grouping with my fletched arrows but my nock is about 4 inches to the right. So I cut the rest at 33 inches (because I thought 32 was too stiff due to the nock end) and have been shooting them but I have constant rights. Like 2 inches at 20 yards at all times. So should I go off of impact more so than nock/impact?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A lot of the nock end alignment upon impact has to do with what kind of target you are using and your release. If you are right handed and your bare shafts are grouping left of of your fletched shafts they are stiff. Right is weak. If you don't have a clean release and are using a bag target your shafts may be at weird angles on the nock end when they impact. I always look at impact and groups vs. nock end.

 

[Brucebarker024]

A lot of the nock end alignment upon impact has to do with what kind of target you are using and your release. If you are right handed and your bare shafts are grouping left of of your fletched shafts they are stiff. Right is weak. If you don't have a clean release and are using a bag target your shafts may be at weird angles on the nock end when they impact. I always look at impact and groups vs. nock end.

Well that is going to make my tuning significantly easier. Thank you very much.


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[Beendare]

Yep, I agree with GLB....

you should be able to see the difference with the way the bareshaft just glides without a bunch of wobble when it's tuned.

 

[BigHink66]

Your wasting your time with paper tuning. Bareshaft vs fletched or fletched broadhead vs fieldpoint.

Paper tuning is what you used to do when you were using training wheels. And didn't know how to tune a bow.

How many times have you ever heard someone say they got perfect bullet holes but were having trouble with broadheads?

 

[BigHink66]

You should be using a .400 arrow with about 250 up front. With a bear takedown, I think you should be using an even lighter spine maybe .500, with about 250 up front.

 

[ledflight]

If you're concerned about contact and have a recent iphone or something else like that, why not show the slow mo video? 120 or 240 frames per second in well lit conditions will show a lot.

 

[GLB]

I shot this today at 28 yards. This is what I am looking for while tuning a bow.
One arrow has a broadhead, one has a fieldpoint and one is a bare shaft.
when I can get that combination to group out to 25-30 yards I call it good.