Tuning question

[Mighty Mouse]

So I got my synuum press, which btw is nice! Perfect for small tuning jobs like this.

I had to put 2 full turns into the left and 2 out the right to get the cam lean corrected. Now it’s perfectly aligned with top cam at full draw and the arrow against the cam lines up perfectly.

At full draw it was like the center pic but about 1/2 as bad as the lean in the pic below.

Micro adjusted the rest and it’s a nearly perfect bullet hole now.

Before the yoke tuning…

My only other issue is I have to anchor perfectly and pull hard into the stop to ensure I’m not inducing lean. I’m on a #2 cam which maxes out at 28” draw and I’m actually about 28.5”. I might swap to #3 cams to get my anchor a little further back but hate to lose that 7fps from the #3 .

Anyway thanks for all the tips guys!! It was fun to get it right myself and know what’s happening via test/tune.


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Glad you were able to get it tuned. Feels good to do it yourself.

FYI you'll need a new string if you swap cams. I believe your draw weight will also change significantly if you swap cams without also swapping the limbs. You could try an extra long d-loop to make the #2 cam fit you better.

 

[Blandry]

Yeah I guess that will be quite an investment…cams/strings maybe next year I’ll need to restring anyway.
. I wish the #2 adjusted to 28.5, it would be perfect.

I’m making it work, just have to be extra focused on my anchor which I should be anyway.

Might look into lengthening my loop a bit..

At least I fixed the lean. It’s on the money now.

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[nphunter]

You can get a little draw length by shortening your cables, you will also gain a little weight if your OK with that. I'm similar and needed to shoot just over 28". I actually shot 27 3/4" on my last bow but it was a 33"ATA bow, with the RX4 I needed to be right at 28 1/8" plus a small nose button to get the string all the way back to have my same comfortable anchor points. I ended up right at 73lbs when all was said and done.

 

[Blandry]

Yeah I'm about to buy myself a draw weight scale for the house and start doing my own tuning/serving/peep/d-loop adjustments myself. My local bow shop is always busy with range customers to really help us with these little tuning issues etc. I guess that's really where they make their money.

I've got this thing shooting lights out bullet holes *consistently* and did some walkback/french tuning this weekend.. it's spot on out to 60.

I might throw on a nose button but really have a solid anchor with both my index releases and thumb styles.. it prob won't matter. I really don't have any face pressure, just nose slightly on the string and I'm consistently making bullet holes with three different releases and two different arrows now.

 

[5MilesBack]

I've got this thing shooting lights out bullet holes *consistently* and did some walkback/french tuning this weekend.. it's spot on out to 60.

Are fixed blade BH's spot on at 60 as well?

 

[Blandry]

Are fixed blade BH's spot on at 60 as well?

I’m testing with Ironwill field points which they ‘say’ fly exactly like the bh’s. That’s yet to be determined. They just announced something like a 15% price hike so they’ll be even more expensive now.


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[Mighty Mouse]

I’m testing with Ironwill field points which they ‘say’ fly exactly like the bh’s. That’s yet to be determined. They just announced something like a 15% price hike so they’ll be even more expensive now.

I wouldn't put much stock in claims of a field point flying like a broadhead (or vice versa), especially not with a 2-blade fixed head like an Iron Will. Paper and bareshaft tuning are good first steps, but be sure to also do some broadhead tuning with whatever heads you’ll be hunting with.

 

[Blandry]

Oh yeah, absolutely plan to extensively over the next few months. I upgraded my CBE engage hybrid from a single pin to a 3 pin/hybrid/slider and taped it out to 60 last weekend with the field points. I have a CBE engage hybrid single pin (.10) for sale if anyone's interested. It's in perfect shape.

 

[fatlander]

If you’re getting a tail right bareshaft, having your rest maxed to the left is most definitely part of the problem. Tail right = move test to the right.

When moving the rest, you’re trying to get the point directly in front of the nock. As it stands, your point is left of your nock, therefore causing a tail right bareshaft.

If I were you right this minute, I’d start bumping the rest to the right until you hit 13/16” (center shot) or the issue is fixed. If you get to center shot and it’s not fixed, then yoke tune.


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[Mighty Mouse]

If you’re getting a tail right bareshaft, having your rest maxed to the left is most definitely part of the problem. Tail right = move test to the right.

If that works for you, go with it, but most sources advise the opposite (tail right = move rest to the left).

 

[fatlander]

If that works for you, go with it, but most sources advise the opposite (tail right = move rest to the left).
View attachment 423739

It’s the only way that works. If the point isn’t directly infront if the nock you’ve got two options: move the point or move the nock. The rest is moving the point. Shimming and yokes move the nock.

Furthermore, paper tears with fletchings are about as useful as tits on a boar hog. The tail of the bareshaft at 10, 20, 30 yards tells no lies.

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[Mighty Mouse]

It’s the only way that works. If the point isn’t directly infront if the nock you’ve got two options: move the point or move the nock. The rest is moving the point. Shimming and yokes move the nock.

Furthermore, paper tears with fletchings are about as useful as tits on a boar hog. The tail of the bareshaft at 10, 20, 30 yards tells no lies.

Pragmatism is the number one rule in tuning: if moving something one way doesn't help, try moving it the opposite way, regardless of what anyone else says. So again, if what you're doing is working, don't change on my say so.

My personal experience aligns with what Gillingham, Dudley, Snyder and others recommend vis-à-vis rest tuning: a tail right paper tear (which also manifests as bareshafts/broadheads impacting the target to the left of fletched shafts/field points) is fixed by moving the rest to the left. The recommended rest windage adjustments for left-right tuning always seemed counterintuitive to me until I watched a video in the Bow Shop Bible app that shows what's going on in slow motion. I attempted to explain what the video shows here, but the video itself is worth a million words (and the price of the app).