Tuning

Joined
Oct 16, 2017
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717
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Upper Michigan
Tuning question here. So I’ve been bare shaft and paper tuning. It looks to me like my paper tune is pretty decent. I’m still getting tail low with bare shaft. Same as I had with fletched shaft til I moved and got the last tears in the pic. I’m shooting some old 400 spine game getters 29” 29 g insert, 125 adapter 160 point weight. 24% foc. Once I’m satisfied I’m gonna buy brand new gamegetters and recheck/shoot those. Am I overthinking the bare shaft? Is the paper more important? I’m sure my release isn’t perfect but it’s consistently been tail low.
 

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Joined
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General rules of thumb.

If your arrow is indicating nock left or right, it's to do with the spine of your arrow being too weak or stiff.
If your arrow is indicating nock high or low, it's to do with the nocking point on your string being too high or low.

I'm only new to this stuff, but that's what I know so far.

I've never paper tuned. All I've ever done is shot into a target and analysed how the arrow has landed, or taken video of me shooting and analysing the arrow flight in slow motion. For me, the later option is the best, as the front of my rinehart target is so beat up it was starting to make my arrows impact funny and I was getting false readings.
 
OP
C
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I uploaded a video of flight. I think I might be nitpicking a little too much after seeing it. Let me know what you think, this is the first time I've nitpicked flight and tuning this much.
Arrow flight
 
OP
C
Joined
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Messages
717
Location
Upper Michigan
General rules of thumb.

If your arrow is indicating nock left or right, it's to do with the spine of your arrow being too weak or stiff.
If your arrow is indicating nock high or low, it's to do with the nocking point on your string being too high or low.

I'm only new to this stuff, but that's what I know so far.

I've never paper tuned. All I've ever done is shot into a target and analysed how the arrow has landed, or taken video of me shooting and analysing the arrow flight in slow motion. For me, the later option is the best, as the front of my rinehart target is so beat up it was starting to make my arrows impact funny and I was getting false readings.
I think the target is a definite possibility. I'm shooting a shot up compressed cardboard target, so pretty similar to a block. Maybe I'll play with it a little more and see what I think after a few days. I uploaded a video of two fletched and a bareshaft and added it to my previous post. After watching that on something bigger than my phone I think might be overthinking a bit.

Thanks
 
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I just watched the videos. It's a little hard to tell completely but your arrow flight doesn't look too bad.

Try to film from directly above you, and in a straight line from the camera, through your arrow when you draw, to the target. This is the easiest way to see the left/right stuff that might be happening.

I made this video a little while ago. It's only newb stuff, because I'm a newb, but some of the stuff in there might help. Another thing to consider is that you throw your hand a lot when you release, so that could contribute to some sort of false spine reading.

 

Beendare

WKR
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Tune is so dependent on perfect form.....and who has that as a beginner?

I noticed some wobble in my hunt arrows- not good as I'm hunting Az late this week. Turns out my BH was 3/16" short...twisted it up and bare shafts group with FP's at multiple distances. I call that good.

I wouldn't worry about paper with a stick bow...I would just Bare shaft tune at different distances

_____
 
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OP
C
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Thanks for posting. I’ll take some more video from above. I bought some heavier inserts so I can get the right with the broadheads I wanna hunt with. I think I’ll try that when they come. May have to go a little longer with that shaft too. Idk yet. Sounds like if I’m nock high my broadheads will plane high? Guess I’ll try it and go from there.

Thanks
I just watched the videos. It's a little hard to tell completely but your arrow flight doesn't look too bad.

Try to film from directly above you, and in a straight line from the camera, through your arrow when you draw, to the target. This is the easiest way to see the left/right stuff that might be happening.

I made this video a little while ago. It's only newb stuff, because I'm a newb, but some of the stuff in there might help. Another thing to consider is that you throw your hand a lot when you release, so that could contribute to some sort of false spine reading.

 
Joined
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Messages
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Nock high and low is much easier to correct than weak or stiff spine.

If your arrows are flying nock high, just move your nocking point on your string down a little bit. If you go too far and your arrows start to rock up and down in flight (what people called porpoising) then you need to move it up a little bit again.
 
OP
C
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I looked at it again today. My nock is way high, think it’s bouncing off the shelf. I’ll move it and try again Wednesday or Thursday.

Nock high and low is much easier to correct than weak or stiff spine.

If your arrows are flying nock high, just move your nocking point on your string down a little bit. If you go too far and your arrows start to rock up and down in flight (what people called porpoising) then you need to move it up a little bit again.
 
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Give it a go, mate, but if you're really bouncing off the shelf, chances are you'll get that dolphin effect and your nocking point is too low.

Nock point is easy to experiment with anyway. I normally just go too high to begin with and then bring it down until it starts to porpoise, and then bring it up a touch.
 
OP
C
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When I checked it with the square it was 7/8. I had it at 5/8 when I set it up. String stretched about a 1/4” for brace height I think that started the problem then I kept moving it up to adjust and ended up at 7/8. Should get to play with it tonight and tomorrow. I’ll move it back to 5/8 and go from there. Crazy how much feathers hide problems. The setup I had been dabbling in turned sideways with bare shaft and I thought with feathers they had been decent.
Btw I like your channel I’ve watched a few of your videos(besides the one you shared in this thread). You’re good at telling the story.

Give it a go, mate, but if you're really bouncing off the shelf, chances are you'll get that dolphin effect and your nocking point is too low.

Nock point is easy to experiment with anyway. I normally just go too high to begin with and then bring it down until it starts to porpoise, and then bring it up a touch.
 
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Messages
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Thanks for the kind words, mate. I'm no expert but I hope to do a few more how-to videos in the coming months - arrow tuning, broadhead sharpening, etc. See how much time I get.

Keep us up to date with your tuning stuff. Once you get a decent idea and on top of it, you can shoot with a lot more confidence.
 
OP
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I think for now I’m about as close as I can get with the way my form is. I think I’ll try broadheads Sunday after my inserts come tomorrow. Group is from 25. EE675B22-5051-4925-8ACB-3128D80F8E09.jpeg
 

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