WesternHunter
Lil-Rokslider
How many of you have to grip your bows different than the typical recommended grip to get it to paper tune or shoot broadheads with field tips???
I can not get rid of a right tear shooting through paper at various ranges no matter what I try. Subsequently shooting fixed blades I'm impacting left of my field points. I have moved the rest multiple times, even over exaggerating moves at times just to see what it would do, shot different releases, string pressures with my face, multiple different shops tuning the bows, and now I have two different bows all confirming the same thing... something about my grip and the way I pull through the shot is causing torque.
The only time I can get the bow to shoot close to bullet holes through paper, I am burying my hand much deeper into the grip than is recommended, crossing the center line of my hand, and shooting more of a pistol grip hold on the bow. It feels awkward to shoot this way and brings my forearm dangerously close to getting smacked by the string, BUT if that's what it takes to shoot torque free I'm willing to relearn my grip.
Anyone have a similar experience? Am I barking up the wrong tree and just have arrows that aren't built correctly?
Bow #1 specs
Prime Rival Long Draw set at 70lbs, 31" draw, 85% let off
QAD drop away arrow rest
Beestinger 10.8 set up
Tightspot 5 arrow quiver
Black Gold ascent 3 pin sight
GT pierce 250 spine arrows around 503 grains finished out with 100 grain tips, standard insert/outsert with collar, 50 grain FACT weights in the back of insert, and AAE Max stealth vanes. Rough arrow length valley of nock to end of Carbon 30.5-30.25
GT pro hunter 300 spines with similar set up finishing around 480 grains
Bow #2 specs
Mathews Traverse set to 31", 70 lbs, 75% let off
Ripcord Drop away
Spot Hogg Fast Eddie XL double pin sight
haven't settled on stabilizer and quiver set up yet
same arrows
sorry for the diatribe....
I can not get rid of a right tear shooting through paper at various ranges no matter what I try. Subsequently shooting fixed blades I'm impacting left of my field points. I have moved the rest multiple times, even over exaggerating moves at times just to see what it would do, shot different releases, string pressures with my face, multiple different shops tuning the bows, and now I have two different bows all confirming the same thing... something about my grip and the way I pull through the shot is causing torque.
The only time I can get the bow to shoot close to bullet holes through paper, I am burying my hand much deeper into the grip than is recommended, crossing the center line of my hand, and shooting more of a pistol grip hold on the bow. It feels awkward to shoot this way and brings my forearm dangerously close to getting smacked by the string, BUT if that's what it takes to shoot torque free I'm willing to relearn my grip.
Anyone have a similar experience? Am I barking up the wrong tree and just have arrows that aren't built correctly?
Bow #1 specs
Prime Rival Long Draw set at 70lbs, 31" draw, 85% let off
QAD drop away arrow rest
Beestinger 10.8 set up
Tightspot 5 arrow quiver
Black Gold ascent 3 pin sight
GT pierce 250 spine arrows around 503 grains finished out with 100 grain tips, standard insert/outsert with collar, 50 grain FACT weights in the back of insert, and AAE Max stealth vanes. Rough arrow length valley of nock to end of Carbon 30.5-30.25
GT pro hunter 300 spines with similar set up finishing around 480 grains
Bow #2 specs
Mathews Traverse set to 31", 70 lbs, 75% let off
Ripcord Drop away
Spot Hogg Fast Eddie XL double pin sight
haven't settled on stabilizer and quiver set up yet
same arrows
sorry for the diatribe....