V3 issues tuning/vane clearance

[Billy Goat]

Sounds good, I’ll try dropping the rest and resetting the d loop. That sounds like it may be the answer.

Give an update. Hopefully it gets you squared away.


I think a lot of shops tend to still set them up 1/4" nock high. Don't know that 1/4 does it, but a little too high gets that roller right in line with lower vanes.

 

[mfllood3800]

Looks nock high. I have been setting up the newer mathews with the loop dead centered between the axles. Then set the rest to put the center of the arrow in the center of the Berger hole. Looks like the bottom of your shaft is about center or just below center of the Berger. That might help get you centered on the roller guard.


I'd also go ahead and bump the rest out a bit, then use the top hats to bring things back together. Assuming you haven't already shimmed to the right as far as you can go.


The roller guard should be centered with your shaft, if you have the nocking point centered between the axles, shaft dead centered on the Berger, and the rollers aren't centered with your shaft, play with the rod. Either extend it out, or if you need to cut it shorter to get it raised up so it's on the same plane as the shaft.



Clearance is difficult with the centered cable guard. It might be you need to go to 3 fletch, vane straight out.

Yep, on My V3 the clearance was so close I almost had to shim the cams. My top hats are small to left bigger to right. Rest is right at 13/16". I have clearance on a 3 vane set up so I didn't mess with it. But I remember thinking wow that is close to the roller guide. I could see a torquey grip creating issues. If your top hats are same on both ends, that could be your issue. Move that cam over away from the cable guide, retune by moving rest with it and I bet it will shoot bullets with no clearance issue. Just watch how much the cables from the yoke to the cam are angled. Mine are pretty scary looking but do work. I never changed top hats, it came from Mathews this way.

 

[Decker]

So I had my d loop drop and rest drop to be centered in the burger hole, but now im getting a hard high right tear. Doesn’t matter how much I adjust rest that vertical tear doesn’t seem to get smaller. My center shot is still 13/16.

I am a lefty shooter. I thought I should mention. And I have my cams shifted almost all way to the right still. I may have one more top hat that I could possibly go.

Could this be a timing issue now?
Would moving my nock point down throw off my timing?

 

[Billy Goat]

So I had my d loop drop and rest drop to be centered in the burger hole, but now im getting a hard high right tear. Doesn’t matter how much I adjust rest that vertical tear doesn’t seem to get smaller. My center shot is still 13/16.

I am a lefty shooter. I thought I should mention. And I have my cams shifted almost all way to the right still. I may have one more top hat that I could possibly go.

Could this be a timing issue now?
Would moving my nock point down throw off my timing?

For me it's hard to truly center in the Berger hole, I just use a tape measure and set top of loop to center of top axle exactly the same as the bottom of the loop to center of bottom of the axle. I then use soft served nocks inside the loop. Sometimes just a few half rounds on the bottom, or both top and bottom, favoring more on the bottom.

Timing can give you high/low results. Depending on exactly how far off your loop had been it can alter timing slightly. Get your vertical worked out first, then focus on the horizontal. Might get a lot of resolution from your vertical issues.

 

[Samdemarais]

Anyone tried tiller tuning these bows? I just read somewhere that people where having success by adjusting the limb bolts to fix some nock high issues

 

[Billy Goat]

Anyone tried tiller tuning these bows? I just read somewhere that people where having success by adjusting the limb bolts to fix some nock high issues

You could, but it's a bandaid. Get the cams in sync. The proper way to do it is setting the draw point even, and stops hitting same time with even reveal in the windows.


You can put fishing line between your top and bottom axles, then draw the bow in a drawboard and watch the cam rotation. Manipulate cables to keep all marks on the cams even on the fishing line. Or manipulate tiller.

 

[Zac]

Anyone tried tiller tuning these bows? I just read somewhere that people where having success by adjusting the limb bolts to fix some nock high issues

Tiller tuning is no different than simply moving your nocking point.

 

[Decker]

Well after going to 3 different shops first two didn’t help much saying my bow was fine and that long as I shoot a fletch paper tune perfect a bare shaft didn’t matter.

I refused to accept that, but I finally got a shop to help me out and the bow was definitely out of tune after adjusting the rest. Got that squared away and now fletching clears and shooting perfect bullet holes bare shaft and fletch.

One of the cables was a 1/4 turn out which was causing issues so ended up adding a piece of string in one to shorten up solving the issue.

10yard bare shaft. Don’t mind top right tear that was before micro adjusting.

 

[Billy Goat]

Need to keep in mind while twisting cables on the sw cam bows it takes a few shots for it to settle out. I always take several shots after .asking an adjustment because so much of the cables are under serving. Need to let the twists work out under the serving.

Never have I found it necessary to use anything in the cables to get them to tune. Not saying it's not a good option, or something to do. Just that if you allow everything to settle, a half twist isn't as much as it frequently seems.

 

[Decker]

I took about 2 dozen shots before I left the shop. The tech had me shoot a few and double check everything. Then when I got home I shot paper again and it was on.

I don’t all what was involved but he seem to know his stuff and got it shoot for me.

 

[mfllood3800]

When I have comes to my home shop, I look to see if bow is timed or put it on a draw board. Then I check center shot and D loop height. After a quick look at these I focus on the shooters grip and shot process. In my years of working on bows, most of the paper tear issues are from the shooter and not the bow.
Glad he got you squared away.

 

[Decker]

100% agree rears are usually due to shooter. I used to get bow tuned with a hooter shooter. But would have weird arrow flights then I started to get bow tuned to me. And I usually would get a tear till I made adjustments.