Volume Gun Suggestions (RPR, CTR, ?)

treillw

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I'm considering purchasing a volume gun to get more practice at shooting long range in the wind for hunting. I do not plan on doing any competitions, but I still want it to be a tack driver. It's nice to finally be looking for a rifle that I don't care how much it weighs. The two rifles I've considered thus far are the Tikka CTR and the Ruger Precision Rifle. From what I have read, both rifles are very accurate. I am kind of leaning towards the RPR, because I think I will want to make adjustments to the CTR stock and not be able to without purchasing an aftermarket chassis.

Which of these rifles would you go with, or do you have any other suggestions? I've also looked at the savage 10 BA Stealth, which I kinda like more than the RPR - the trigger on the one I handled was nicer and the stock and handguard setup on it is pretty nice. I haven't heard nearly as much buzz about this gun though as the others. I'm would bet that it shoots very good as well. The RPR probably has a lot more available aftermarket though.

I'm thinking about getting a new 6mm creedmoor for $720 and re-barreling it to 6.5 creedmoor with a top of the line barrel. That would make it roughly the same price as the new 6.5 creedmoors I see for sale, but likely shoot better from the higher quality barrel. Thoughts on this? Would a .223 be a better choice for a volume gun? I would like to stretch the distance out pretty far and think I'd have more fun with the 6.5 CM. How much could I sell the unfired factory 6 CM barrel for?

I've searched around and read through a bunch of threads on replacement RPR barrels. Is there a general consensus on who makes the best ones?

I saw that timney makes replacement triggers for the RPR. Will any remington style trigger fit on these? I have a bix n' andy trigger on my hunting rifle and would love to put the same trigger on the RPR.

What kind of scope would you top it with? Considering the SWFA fixed 10 power, Vortex Golden Eagle 5-60x52, and the Burris XTR II 8-40x50 after some minimal investigation. I guess I don't really need it to be the finest glass in the world since it's just a practice gun. If I can't see through the scope, I can shoot another day.

Lots of questions in there. Thanks for taking the time to help out with any of them!
 
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16Bore

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You can keep it pretty simple.....Tikka 1:8 223, SWFA 10x MQ, Black Hills 75’s (or the like)

E9CF6374-3374-45F7-97C4-0880B960D683.jpeg

Don’t know your thresholds as far as distance and what-not, or your hunting rig, but I shoot this more than anything. Clays at 500 is a hoot and as far as I shoot. Scope tracks better than most. Easy rig to set up, couple of turns on the trigger and you’re done.

If you’re lucky, Formidilious will chime in. He runs the hell out of them....

Easy peasy.
 

fatbacks

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I was in the same boat as you looking for a volume rifle that wouldn't break the bank. Decided on the Tikka TAC A1 in 6.5 CM. I had all the brass and dies because my sheep rifle is a 6.5 CM. Topped it with a Leupold LRP with Badger Ordinance 20 MOA. I've only put around 50 rounds down range with it so far (still deep winter in Alaska) but every group so far has been sub MOA with both hand loads and factory ammo. A majority of groups and been less than .5 MOA. Really impressed with this rifle.

That said, out of your choices I would get a the CTR and put it in a manners or mcmillan stock. I think the CTR has the same barrel as the TAC A1 and the out of the box accuracy is pretty damn awesome.

IMG_7303.jpeg
 
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I love the TAC A1 but I’m not clear on why they put a 2 stage trigger in it. All my other guns are single stage so I’m worried about having an odd ball. Especially for a volume gun, then switching over to a single stage trigger on my hunting rifle.
 
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If you are wanting to get better at shooting and calling wind with your hunting rifle, then I would suggest shooting your hunting rifle. Take the price of a new rifle and scope and put it towards ammo and maybe even a training class or two.

But, It sounds more like you want a new rifle to play with and if that's the case, it's hard to beat the aftermarket support for the rpr, but I personally like the Tikkas better.
 
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Of what you listed I’d go CTR and put in a KRG Bravo. I’ve got a Lite in the Bravo stock and it’s outstanding.

I also got a SuperLite in 223 that I’m putting lots of rounds through. It shoots great and is a ton of fun.


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I've got an RPR, purchased with a single intent: to hit a man-sized torso target at a thousand yards with a single, cold bore shot. The RPR made it pretty easy.

To touch on some of your questions above, the RPR take off barrel will go for about $150 from what I've seen.
Proof barrels are were I would head if you want an aftermarket RPR barrel. But, I would just buy a 6.5 CM RPR and shoot that barrel out first.
I chose a Nightforce NXS 5.5-25 scope, and am very happy with it. I have shot this combo out to 1250 yards.

The trigger is a module that is not compatible with Rem 700 style triggers. Timney does make a drop in for the RPR, but I haven't felt it was necessary on mine.
 

fatbacks

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If you are wanting to get better at shooting and calling wind with your hunting rifle, then I would suggest shooting your hunting rifle. Take the price of a new rifle and scope and put it towards ammo and maybe even a training class or two.

But, It sounds more like you want a new rifle to play with and if that's the case, it's hard to beat the aftermarket support for the rpr, but I personally like the Tikkas better.

I agree with shooting your hunting rifle in order to get better at shooting your hunting rifle, however, last week after two back to back range sessions with my two 300 WSM's my shoulder was feeling it. Both have brakes and one is suppressed. Switching back to the TAC A1 made it feel like a BB gun and was a pleasure to shoot.
 
OP
treillw

treillw

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Some level of shoot your hunting rifle to get better at shooting your hunting rifle is true. You obviously need to be familiar with it and know how it shoots, etc. But if you're trying to learn more about how the bullet flies through the air with wind, I don't believe you need to be shooting the same gun. The ballistics math is just math and doesn't care what gun's caliber parameters are used. It's learning to properly input the variables that makes a difference. Garbage in, garbage out as they say.

I witnessed the best shooter I know, who has a pretty awesome pedigree having won multiple national 1000 yard precision shooting competitions, shoot his hunting rifle 4 times at 400 yards this year. I shot the rifle a 5th time, into his grouping. The gun is tuned and he knows how it shoots. Why go blowing the gun out of tune shooting 100s of rounds through it for practice each year?

If you can't shoot your hunting rifle consistently, that is a different story.
 
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I agree that there is nothing better then actual trigger time when it comes to getting better. With that, you can also dry fire the weapon and go through the motions without wasting ammo. When I hit the range, first thing I do after building my shooting position is several dry fire rounds. It helps me get into "the zone" if you will and I find helps remove the "cold shooter" effect from my practice.

For the new rifle, a replacement barrel will still be cheaper then a new rifle and scope. The only time I would agree with a new rifle for said purpose is if the OP is having issues with flinching from the recoil of the larger cartridge or is developing bad habits with said rifle.

Don't get me wrong, I love buying new guns and playing with them. No 2 guns I own are of the same caliber and that is on purpose. If the OP wants a new gun for practice, then get a new gun. I would vote either the 6.5CM, or a .223 (if ammo cost was a concern). While he would get better at wind holds and drop, it would still not match his hunting rifle and he should still practice with it and know it's limitations before trying a longer shot like he might with his training rig.

To the OP: will you be reloading?
 

PNWGATOR

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Vudoo .22 LR would check a lot of boxes and once the initial purchase was made, it’d be inexpensive to shoot.
 
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