What is the best distance to work up a load for open sight muzzleloader?

jmclean

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Typically with centerfire rifles you might shoot groups at 100yards to work up a load. Shooting a muzzleloader with open sights, what is the best range to shoot to accurately work up a load?
 

muddydogs

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Anymore 50 yards is the best I can do with open sights. Luckily in Utah we can have scopes so its not an issue, If I wasn't able to hunt with a scope but my muzzy excepted a scope I would put one on for load workup then remove for hunting. My traditional muzzys I just work up at 50 then see what I can do with it at 100 and if it shoots as good as I can at 100 with open sights I call it good.
 
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I actually sight my open sight muzzy in the same way I do my centerfire rifle: start at 25 roughly dead on, then move back to 50 and then 100. At 100, I try for 1-2” high. That makes me dead on at about 120 and so I can aim for dead center on an animal out to 150 yards.
 
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The only advantage in using a scope I can see would be to identify the most accurate load. Because once you pull off the scope and put on open sights, you are starting from scratch again. But it is very helpful in working up which load you want to use.
 
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jmclean

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Oregon
The scope sounded like a good idea just to help fine tune a load. The main reason I asked the question was that I'm not sure that shooting at 25yards would give a true picture on how your load is grouping. But also with open sights at 100yards it might be hard to figure out if the load is not grouping or if it's just the shooter. I am mainly looking to find out what load/bullet combination the gun likes best. Once I've figured that out I would look to figure out where the gun shoots at different yardages knowing that I have an accurate load to start with. I'm just not sure what yardage might give you a true picture of an accurate load. Does 25yards work for developing a load?
 
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Put a scope on it for load development. Then you will be confident in the accuracy of the load and can get it sighted in with open sights.
 
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jmclean

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I think I like the idea of the temporary scope to be certain it's not my eyes that are the problem. I appreciate the input and opinions. Thanks!
 

Michael Pawul

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Graham, WA
What muzzy are you shooting? I have a CVA Optima that I will be working up a load for here soon as well, and appreciate the post and replies for some guidance.
 
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jmclean

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I just got a Knight Ultralite. I heard good things. Hoping I can do well with it. I've heard good things about the CVA Optima as well.
 
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jmclean

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Oregon
It looks like you may have asked what state and Sabot or conical but it doesn't show up on this site for some reason.

If so, I am in Oregon but hunting Nevada this year. Open sites. Going to try both sabots and full bore bullets to see what I like best. I'm looking to get the most range I can reasonably shoot and have enough energy for elk.
 
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When everyone is talking load development, are you using blackhorn 209 or other smokeless loose powders?
 

muddydogs

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When everyone is talking load development, are you using blackhorn 209 or other smokeless loose powders?

If your going through the trouble of working up the best load you can then loose powder makes the most sense. No reason to be constrained by pellet weight.

As for powder it's kind of your choice, I prefer BH209 but you will get about 15 different powder recommendations depending on who you ask. Try a couple and see what shoots best for you.
 
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Typically with centerfire rifles you might shoot groups at 100yards to work up a load. Shooting a muzzleloader with open sights, what is the best range to shoot to accurately work up a load?

Not really sure if this is the BEST way to sight an open sight rifle in but this is what I do.

I also have to include a couple first steps... 1. I use a Williams FP Peep sight with 1/4 min clicks mush like a scope. 2. I change out the front sight for a Williams ramp, fiber optic front sight, and a Fire Sight hood. With this combination it gives me the illusion that I am looking through a 1X scope.

Williams_FP_Peep_Sight.jpg


Williams_Front_Sight.jpg


Next thing to notice is that I change the red fiber optic out for a green bead, for myself it gives me better contrast on the target (paper of animal)

Ok the last thing I should share... I use a Point Blank Range (PBR) computation to sight the rifle in. At 100 yards I want the bullet to impact right at 3" high. (remember I am a hunter not a target shooter) Using the PBR of 3" @ 100 and then knowing the muzzle velocity of the projectile I print a Ballistic Sheet that gives me a good estimate of the bullet is doing at various ranges.

If you look at this sheet you can see what the bullet is likely to do through various ranges. With the PBR I can shoot many different distances with out changing the sight..

50-270-Lehigh.jpg


Ok now the sighting in process.

I bore sight the rifle at home before attempting to sight it in.

Then to the range and set the paper target up at 25 yards. At this point my real goal is to get the windage very close to 0 and the elevation in the area indicated on the the ballistic sheet

Then move the target to 50 yards and shoot to verify windage and approximate elevation are close.

Kind of a sample target

1-23-20-DISC-O-Target.jpg


Then to 75 yards. At 75 I concentrate on matching the ballistic sheet for the elevation at 75 yards and center the windage.

Finally I move the target to 100 yards and shoot a confirmation target.

Then the fun begins - you will need to shoot the same 75 or 100 yard range 2 - 3 times and make sure you can repeat the performances you want

And for fun I set up Clay Pigeons at 100 yards shoot them to really test my skills. I am a long way from g=being a great shooter with open sights. And the pigeon is darn small at 100 yards with open sights.

6-10-Shoot.jpg


Hope all of this helps some...
 
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