What longbows should I look at?

[Foggy Mountain]

I've heard the "No hand shock" Claim before too and the bow was a teeth rattler [a Big Jims Buffalo]

Wrench knows his stuff...and I've seen and heard good things about that whistler. I shot with a gal at a tourney and that thing was whisper quiet. 56" and short RH draw made it impossible for me to shoot.

I’m not doubting him bud I just feel it’s at least somewhat subjective. We learn from each other right? In order to do so we’ve gotta be accurate. I won’t believe any bow is shock free, in fact it’s impossible but if I see it I’ll believe it. I never have, don’t think anyone has.

 

[Wrench]

I'll see if I can upload a video. I've shot it enough to know.

 

[Cy14561]

Check out an omega too. This year I’m shooting a native. But the royal huntsman is nice to. Bows are very smooth and perform real well. But just like any Trad bow, you won’t truly know till you get one in your hand and spend some time with it. Big Jim’s and toelkes are great bows too. I guess the difference with an omega is there’s more weight in the riser, which I kinda like.

 

[Foggy Mountain]

I'll see if I can upload a video. I've shot it enough to know.

Buddy you’re gonna drop your bow. Don’t scratch or damage it for any nonsense. Not worth it. I’m glad you’re happy with it. I watched some guys on you tube shoot it. Moves about as much as any.

 

[Kentucky]

I had a Whistler..HAD.. I had 2 takedowns.. both new.. both had excellent grip.. had an issue with one that required it to be replaced after 4weeks of shooting.. the replacement started with same issue.. I sent it back and was refunded… great guys, great service. I guess I had a bad luck of draw??… the bow did behave nicely, but it would jump out of your hand if you didn’t have close grip.. or a finger sling… same as any longbow you get..I shot several nice longbows.. all micarta risers and they all jump… it’s a light bow, it’s gonna jump..


like anything else, my best bow may not be your best bow… and 2 custom bows of same model and spec can preform differently for the same guy..

“How does positive-track on a Plymouth work?…It just does.)——Joe Dirt’s Daddy

 

[oldgoat]

There's probably fixing to be a beautiful 60" Toelke Whistler, 47#@28" at rmsgear on consignment, few small scratches here and there, it's been in the mountains. I shoot my lighter weight one way better, it's just a bit much at my 31"draw

 

[bobinmi]

I'm a big fan of Great Northern. I've owned the fireball model which is a very fast hybrid longbow and I've owned the Traditional longbow which is essentially a Howard Hill style longbow. They both did everything I asked of them and there is something about a simple design executed perfectly that I really like. Great Northern seems to epitomize that. I would recommend checking out www.thetradlab.com as well. Cody Greenwood has run a lot of longbows through his testing process.

 

[Wrench]

How can i post the videos.....they're too big to post.

 

[TxxAgg]

Man, this brings back some memories. I've owned probably 2 dozen Toelkes. All very, very nice.

 

[Wrench]

 

[Wrench]

 

[Foggy Mountain]

Did you not see the bow move, almost jump out of your hand? Kinda proves what I’m saying. I’ll also say that certainly wasn’t an open hand not the way guys would say it. You squeezed it between your knuckles.

 

[Wrench]

You're impossible. Of course a bow will move, its physics 101. I just showed you that a very lightweight, known quality bow that is pretty damn short can be controlled with recoil feedback so minimal you have to go slow motion to try to discern if the bow has enough to argue about.

I have 10 others here that would be halfway to the target in the same situation.

The moral of the story is that the Whistler does everything Dan says it does when I shoot it. I get nothing from him, and if you look at every post asking for comparisons you'll see that I don't give them credit as a "beautiful" bow compared to others, but instead it's everything you need and nothing you dont.

Of special note, that beaver shelf and pad are original. I'm on my 3rd or 4th string now....and they have barely a smear on them.

For its size and performance, I don't think it can be beat. A quarter twist had it in two pieces, its no longer than my arrows when broke down....and nothing to lose.

For a guy who wants to hunt with it (like me with this 3am post) it checks a lot of boxes. I can sink a broadhead into a 18/1 at 50 yards with it then in 30 seconds have it broken in half ready to haul ass.

When a better bow for a high country hunter shows up please let me know because I am always looking to up my game.

 

[Foggy Mountain]

Bud you said ZERO shock, did you forget. That’s how we got here. now I’m impossible? We need to give honest/ non misleading information. Reread what happened. You’re mistaken again. Zero is zero, I said it was impossible. Glad we finally agree

 

[bobinmi]

Good god this is a stupid argument boys. Stickbows vibrate at the shot no matter what. Hell my barebow setup weighs almost 5lbs and it jumps forward at the shot. I would not classify it as hand shock.

 

[Blackcow]

I think sometimes we confuse nearly every bows inclination to jump forward at the shot with hand shock, perhaps.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Some of you guys are worse than engineers on triathlon forums (if you know....you know). I bet you're a lot of fun at parties lol.

 

[Foggy Mountain]

. As stated earlier best ever, relatively soft, etc all good perhaps description. Zero is not. How can a bow jump fwd with zero hand shock? It’d have to build speed slowly and it doesn’t. It comes to brace, maybe just past, but it stops, the extra energy winds up as hand shock. Guys we can’t actually help someone without being really honest in our descriptions. How can a fellow learn unless we do our best to give honest info?. The zero was even embellished with uppercase letters. It’s not true. Words have meaning. Not too much is absolute. Always, never, zero might be a few.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

. As stated earlier best ever, relatively soft, etc all good perhaps description. Zero is not. How can a bow jump fwd with zero hand shock? It’d have to build speed slowly and it doesn’t. It comes to brace, maybe just past, but it stops, the extra energy winds up as hand shock. Guys we can’t actually help someone without being really honest in our descriptions. How can a fellow learn unless we do our best to give honest info?. The zero was even embellished with uppercase letters. It’s not true. Words have meaning. Not too much is absolute. Always, never, zero might be a few.

To be fair, What the other guy was saying was making sense to me. When you started getting super analytical about it, it stopped being fun.

 

[Rob5589]

. As stated earlier best ever, relatively soft, etc all good perhaps description. Zero is not. How can a bow jump fwd with zero hand shock? It’d have to build speed slowly and it doesn’t. It comes to brace, maybe just past, but it stops, the extra energy winds up as hand shock. Guys we can’t actually help someone without being really honest in our descriptions. How can a fellow learn unless we do our best to give honest info?. The zero was even embellished with uppercase letters. It’s not true. Words have meaning. Not too much is absolute. Always, never, zero might be a few.

So is jumping forward the same as hand shock? If so, every bow must have it. From all the information I am gleaning on shooting a trad bow, you want the bow to "jump to target." But I'm just getting started so I have no idea.