What’s recommended to kill elk?

MHWASH

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I’m about to buy a compound bow, but I’m not really sure what to look for as far as poundage. My eventual goal is to be able to shoot an elk as far away as 60 yards. I’m more concerned about being able to hold at full draw waiting for a good shot than I am about spouting what my draw weight is.

If it matters, my draw length is 27.5, I’m 5’8 and 46.
 

Rob5589

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A sharp cut on contact broadhead, on a perfectly tuned arrow of reasonable weight, will kill an elk, or any animal for that matter. Draw weight has less to do with killing an elk than those criteria. Go to an archery shop and shoot some bows to see what works for you.
 

wayoh22

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A sharp cut on contact broadhead, on a perfectly tuned arrow of reasonable weight, will kill an elk, or any animal for that matter. Draw weight has less to do with killing an elk than those criteria. Go to an archery shop and shoot some bows to see what works for you.
What he said. Read no further.
 

7raptor

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I’m about to buy a compound bow, but I’m not really sure what to look for as far as poundage. My eventual goal is to be able to shoot an elk as far away as 60 yards. I’m more concerned about being able to hold at full draw waiting for a good shot than I am about spouting what my draw weight is.

If it matters, my draw length is 27.5, I’m 5’8 and 46.
Shoot 50#, 60#, and 70#. I’m your same height and draw length, younger and do a lot of weight training. I can shoot 70# comfortably, probably even 80, but I like to shoot my bow every single day, so I shoot dozens of arrows every day at 60#, and hunt at 60# and my shoulder never hurts.
 

LostArra

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I've killed elk from 18 to 44 yards with 60# and under. Compound and longbow.

My elk hunting goal is a 10 yard shot.
 
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I'm 48 and I shoot 66 lbs. My longest shot at a elk was 45 yards, I think arrow landed somewhere in Iowa because i was so damn nerves. Lol ..... go with what rob5589 what said.
 

Brendan

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Poundage is a very individual thing. Nobody can tell you what works best for you.

You want to be able to draw smoothly, and easily while sitting down without sky drawing the bow or straining. If you're a big, strong guy - that might be 70 or 80#. If never lifted weights or shot a bow in your life that could be a 40# bow.

Personally, if you're new, you're probably looking at a 40-50# or 50-60# bow (unless you're a strong guy with good upper body strength). I'd get a bow that you can draw easily while set at the bottom to middle of its' range, which allows you some room to raise poundage as you get used to it.
 
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MHWASH

MHWASH

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My son, 14 is shooting 50#, and i have no problem pulling that back. We have the same draw length, so I figure this is a pretty good test.
I was concerned I'd be "under gunned" if I was shooting less than 65#, but it sounds like anything close to 60# should be more than enough.
 

LostArra

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I was concerned I'd be "under gunned" if I was shooting less than 65#, but it sounds like anything close to 60# should be more than enough.
Remember that 50# recurves and longbows are killing elk. A 60# compound is more than enough. Accuracy/shot placement are the keys to success.
 

Brendan

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My son, 14 is shooting 50#, and i have no problem pulling that back. We have the same draw length, so I figure this is a pretty good test.
I was concerned I'd be "under gunned" if I was shooting less than 65#, but it sounds like anything close to 60# should be more than enough.

If in doubt then, I'd look at a 50-60# bow because it gives you room to start low and turn up the poundage. You can go higher, but only if you get to a shop and try shooting some bows at 55, 60#. Going to a shop and trying different weights is a good idea anyways.
 
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I've found that I like 62 pounds the most. Its comfortable for practice when you are slingin lots of arrows.

Don't ignore your arrow build. That probably plays a bigger role in your success than bow poundage.
 

Yooper

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Similar to the above. I could probably pull back 70+ all day long, but I've had both shoulders surgically repaired and I'm not wanting to revisit that again any time soon. I found the best spot for me in that 62-64# range and my arrows tend to be in the 500-550 gr range. I think it's a good blend of modest speed and good weight for penetration.
 
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A lot of great thoughts on this thread already..the only thing to add is that all of the mentioned comments above with regard to setups give you confidence. There's nothing worse than letting and arrow fly and "hoping" that it hits where you were aiming. I was this way when I first started hunting with a bow. But as mentioned above, a well tuned bow does wonders in your ability to kill simply from a mental perspective. You know the bow will do its job. There's way too much emphasis on poundage these days. While it is important to an extent, it means nothing if you cant hold steady or cant effectively get to full draw and stay there.
 

WCB

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First go shoot a bunch of bows...you may find one bow at 65 is "easier" to draw and hold than another at 60.

60 will do everything you need. get a good quality arrow and a tough cut on contact broadhead (or) at least a chisel point without real steep angled blades. Work on being 100% at 40yards...worry about 60 once you do a bunch of shooting.
 

Rob5589

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First go shoot a bunch of bows...you may find one bow at 65 is "easier" to draw and hold than another at 60.

60 will do everything you need. get a good quality arrow and a tough cut on contact broadhead (or) at least a chisel point without real steep angled blades. Work on being 100% at 40yards...worry about 60 once you do a bunch of shooting.
👍
Draw cycle makes a ton of difference. I had an Obsession that was 65lbs and drew "easier" than my 60lb PSE.
 
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