Where to get brass annealed?

amassi

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Unknownmunitions.com
Brass prep package, trimmed, annealed et el

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Lawnboi

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What do you need annealed and where are you.

Around here there are enough shooters with amps that you can usually find someone to do it for free to a few bucks
 

Rick

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I believe there is a guy on SH advertising annealing as a paid service.

What do you need annealed and where are you.

Around here there are enough shooters with amps that you can usually find someone to do it for free to a few bucks
I agree with this. Ask around and see if you can find an AMP buddy. A lot of the PRS shooters have AMPs. If they are setup for the same cartridge then it only costs ten minutes of their time.
 

Ucsdryder

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I’ve been doing the torch and 2 finger method. Seems to work? Who knows, getting good anneal lines (take that for what it’s worth) and my SD and ES are good. At some point I’ll probably upgrade to an annealer but for now spinning the case between my finger and thumb over a torch seems to be working.
 

Operator

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Look at Annealeez machine or AGS once you get the time set properly you can get a good anneal, not perfect as a 1500$ amp machine but very good and far better than not doing it.
 

Harvey_NW

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I picked one of the Gen 1's up on an intro sale a while back, honestly haven't even got it out of the box yet but there's quite a few videos, seem like a handy unit. They didn't have the magnum rollers out yet and as soon as they landed I got an email and received them free of charge.

 
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MuleyFever
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I picked one of the Gen 1's up on an intro sale a while back, honestly haven't even got it out of the box yet but there's quite a few videos, seem like a handy unit. They didn't have the magnum rollers out yet and as soon as they landed I got an email and received them free of charge.


I have been looking at this unit. I want to anneal enough that paying someone to do it will cost about half of one of these types so I may be better off just buying one.

@Travis Bertrand any comments on using it?
 

wcoats

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Also interested in this. I don't currently have an annealer and haven't been annealing my brass. It seems like my SD has opened up some on my 6.5 creedmore loads with brass that was on it's 3rd loading so I'd like to get it annealed before loading that brass again. I've heard of people annealing every loading; is that really necessary or can you anneal every 2 or 3 loadings?
 

Lawnboi

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Also interested in this. I don't currently have an annealer and haven't been annealing my brass. It seems like my SD has opened up some on my 6.5 creedmore loads with brass that was on it's 3rd loading so I'd like to get it annealed before loading that brass again. I've heard of people annealing every loading; is that really necessary or can you anneal every 2 or 3 loadings?
I anneal every loading to keep things consistent. Seating consistency is better.
Main reason being is not having to adjust anything. My die, bushing and neck tension is the same at the 8th firing as it is the second.

Before annealing I was adjusting every couple firings.

Someone local was nice enough to let me try his amp when I was at the same point you were, I was getting some wild SDs and noticed my seating forces were all over. Annealing fixed it and I bought an amp a week later.

I realize not everyone can just go out and buy an amp, nor needs one. As I noted higher up I’d ask around locally, chances are someone has an amp that they would let you try or possibly anneal for you.
 

Weldor

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There is good video out there using Tempilaq, super easy really works and is cheap.
 

wcoats

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I anneal every loading to keep things consistent. Seating consistency is better.
Main reason being is not having to adjust anything. My die, bushing and neck tension is the same at the 8th firing as it is the second.

Before annealing I was adjusting every couple firings.

Someone local was nice enough to let me try his amp when I was at the same point you were, I was getting some wild SDs and noticed my seating forces were all over. Annealing fixed it and I bought an amp a week later.

I realize not everyone can just go out and buy an amp, nor needs one. As I noted higher up I’d ask around locally, chances are someone has an amp that they would let you try or possibly anneal for you.
Thanks for the info and that makes sense. I started dabbling a little in PRS style long range shooting competitions. I only going to do a few 1 day matches per year so not going to go as full blown on my set up as a lot of people but I'm starting to think/realize annealing is probably needed even at my level. I'll ask around and see if someone will show me their annealing process and let me anneal a batch of my brass. Most people I've met so far in this hobby are very nice and helpful
 
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Tempilaq, a torch and a drill with a socket the right size for your brass. Unless you’re going to pony up for the AMP this is the way to go
 

Tesoro

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I have been reloading since I was 15 and now I'm 61. Of all the techniques and alternative ways to load, I think annealing is the most confusing because it is not quantifiable. You cant weigh it or measure it!

In reloading one needs to strive for consistency in completed rounds. If you use an arbor press to seat, or one with a gauge, you will easily feel the inconsistencies in seating pressure ( = true neck tension) between necks with varying elasticity. Thus I anneal after each firing. If I dont I often feel 'hard ones' when seating.

If you listen to champion shooters and other pros you will find that the trick is to look inside the neck until you see a dark cherry red glow form and then quit. This needs to be done in a dark room.
Of course consistency of flame tip distance and angle in the key here also. It is not hard and easy to practice using worn or discarded range brass to get it down. I guarantee you that I cant hold the case base with my fingers and do this to the cherry glow!

I think the primal rights annealing video best explains the process.

I used to have an expensive benchmark machine but sold it as I now only anneal around a 100 at a time, and many times just 20 or so. The machines dont anneal any more precisely than by hand and actually take longer to set up and adjust when doing small batches.

My current annealing setup cost under $50 and I can do 100 in 20 minutes, or less if they are small cases.

It is a $22 adj speed mini potters wheel off ebay, a $8 shell holder and a piece of ss spring. And of course a bottle of gas and an adj fine point torch head.

You only need 2 hands and a set of spring loaded needle nose pliers with my set up. If one uses a drill and case holder then you need 3 hands as you have to set something down to change cases. Both systems get the same end result but one is slower than the other and not quite as much fun to do.

C98F4CC5-B05E-4A0E-AC7F-C311A6CFFA66.jpeg
 
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