Which end of the arrow for what?

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Apr 23, 2021
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Assembly some new arrows (shafts have already been cut by a shop), and when I put the shafts on a spinner I've noticed some have more wobble on one end while the other end is wobble-free. For the best/most-consistent flying arrows, would it be better to put the inserts on the straighter end and fletch the wobbly end, or vice-versa? Or does it likely not make much of a difference?
 

BBob

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Nock end always gets the straighter end. When sorting arrows to cut I seek out the longest straightest end section for the nock and mark it accordingly.
 
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BroccoliRob
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Nock end always gets the straighter end. When sorting arrows to cut I seek out the longest straightest end section for the nock and mark it accordingly.
Interesting, I expected it would be the other way around. Any explanation as to why putting the nock on the straighter end is better?
 

dtrkyman

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Nock is attached to your string it gets the straight end.

If you build your own arrows spin them prior to cutting, may cut 2 inches from one end and half inch from the other, short arrows are really easy to get really straight.

You can buy cheap arrow and get excellent straightness that way!
 
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BroccoliRob
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I don't have the means to cut my own arrows yet so I had to have the shop (BlackOvis) do it, but it definitely would be nice to be able to cut out any wobble from the ends. Most of the .003 Axis shafts I got spin pretty true, but there are a couple that do have a smidge of wobble at one end.
 

Rob5589

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Interesting, I expected it would be the other way around. Any explanation as to why putting the nock on the straighter end is better?
I thought the same thing until I contacted Cody (Tradlab) and he explained how a straight launch off the string was more important.
 
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I learned years ago on wood shafts to put the nock on the straight end. They shot a lot better that way even if the point end was a bit crooked on my rabbit arrows. I follow the same principle when cutting and making carbon shaft arrows today...always cutting off the crookedest end(s) of the shaft, and always installing the nock on the straight(est) end. Only drawback is the labels on the shafts don't match up and some read from the nock forward, others from the point back.
 
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