Who's rebarreled their Savages?

dutch_henry

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Considering rebarreling my Savage 110 and would like to hear from those who have done it. Worth it (to you)? Any wisdom to pass on? Any recs on a barrel manufacturer and vendor?

I'm looking to eek out some more accuracy and turn mine into a sub-MOA rifle, which it is not in spite of some tinkering, quality glass and rings, and load development. Mine has the accutrigger and accustock, so I know there's more in this rifle. I plan to keep it at the same caliber or perhaps move to 270 win.

Last, for 30-06 and 270, do you have a preferred barrel length? For me the choice is between 22" and 24". I know I can get a little extra velocity with the 24 and some people think they balance better, whereas the 22 is handier in the woods.
 
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Go for it. Switched out a .308 bull bbl for a heavy varmint shilen select match in 6BR. Was easy to do with a wrench and a bbl vise (just make one). You can buy guages or just use scotch tape to get correct headspace. You should take out the spring from bolt as well. Plenty of vids im sure.
Boringly accurate now with 105 bergers, varget, and lapua brass. Had custom sizer made and use a forster seater, but im sure that thing would shoot bugholes without all the effort.

Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide and how it goes.
 
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dutch_henry

dutch_henry

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Thanks Downeaster. That's good to hear it was worth the switch. Shilen is one of the mfgrs I'm looking at.
 

Ingo

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Go for it. Switched out a .308 bull bbl for a heavy varmint shilen select match in 6BR. Was easy to do with a wrench and a bbl vise (just make one). You can buy guages or just use scotch tape to get correct headspace. You should take out the spring from bolt as well. Plenty of vids im sure.
Boringly accurate now with 105 bergers, varget, and lapua brass. Had custom sizer made and use a forster seater, but im sure that thing would shoot bugholes without all the effort.

Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide and how it goes.
That Forster seater is the best there is, in my experience. You don't even need the micrometer one if you do a little math.

I have been down many different roads with dies and now I just use the regular Forster FL sizing dies and their regular BR seating dies and get excellent runout.

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Douglas makes good barrels, especially the airgaged ones. Longer barrels are "free" extra velocity. If a 6x6 or larger elk can run through the woods, I believe I can get my rifle to follow it.
 

robtattoo

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I believe I'm on my 9th (?) Savage rebarrel now.
I bought one, for a long range target rig from McGowan (special order, 32", 1¼" zero taper) and it took 5 months to arrive. It'd consistently group 20 rounds right at MOA out to 1250yds (max available range. I always wanted to try it to a mile)
All my others I've bought through Bison Gunworks (2, 6.5 swedes. 2, 6mm BRs. A .223, a .257 Bob, a .308 match & a .300 SAUM) He uses Green Mountain blanks, turnaround is usually less than 2 weeks & I don't/haven't own/owned a single one that wouldn't put 5 rounds well under 2" at 200yds. I recommend the guy to pretty much everyone who'll listen. He has a pretty extensive reamer list & is more than happy to rent oddball stuff for special orders.
When I bought my first (around 2010, IIRC) he was the cheapest guy around. I haven't looked in the last year or so, but he was right around $200 shipped for common contours, reamed, cut & crowned.

I know there are better out there, but for a hunting gun, I doubt I'll ever use anyone else.
 

robtattoo

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As to barrel length, I really can't comment. I've only ever owned 1 '06 (T3x) & 1 .270 (Weatherby Vanguard) and both were bone stock. I think 22" & 24" barrels. Both kill stuff dead as a wedge.....
 

howl

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Have done to get non-factory chamberings. Only reason to do it in my opinion. You can get another Savage for what a good barrel costs. Savage usually makes a straight barrel. Most Savages I have had were sub-MOA with the right load.

Browning, on the other hand, I've not had a Browning that wouldn't shoot. And the action is actually worth re-barreling.
 
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Just re-barreled a Savage .243 that was MOA accuracy wise and had 800+rounds down the barrel. I switched it to a 22inch 6.5 Creed from X-Caliber Barrels in their lightest contour. Just finished the break in process so It should be interesting to see what it does accuracy wise on my next trip to the range as I start to work up loads for it. The main reason for going with a barrel over a new rifle is the options. I got my new barrel with a 1-7 Twist for shooting copper bullets here in CA. In my opinion if you are going to be switching and re-barreling rifles regularly it could be more cost efficient to purchase the tools and gauges and install the barrels yourself, but to do only one, and have a competent gunsmith install it is not really worth it... For the cost I could have just left the rifle alone and bought a 6.5 Creed Tikka and had 2 rifles.

X-Caliber Barrel - $410
Precision Recoil Lug and Barrel Nut from NSS - $27+$35=$62
Gunsmith Installation and Action Truing - $160
Total - $632

Tikka T3 Superlight - $750

I saved $118+DROS Fees and got a "custom" 1-7 twist instead of the 1-8 with the Factory Tikka. It is your money but unless I burn out the barrel on my .204 Savage I will not be doing anymore. If I were you I would buy a new Tikka T3 Superlight or any other decent rifle of your choosing and keep the old rifle as your backup, just my thoughts.
 

TauPhi111

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Sep 10, 2017
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I have 2 rebarreled Savages - a 111 rebarreled to 260 AI with a Criterion Barrel and a Stevens 200 rebarreled to 358 Win with a Shilen barrel. I can't say either is more accurate than the other, and both shoot 1/2 moa. I think that Criterion cleans easier, but it is 416R stainless and the Shilen is Chrome Moly. Also, Shilen won't make a barrel with lite sporter contour in anything bigger than .284 bore for Savage prefits. IDK why. For a hunting gun, Criterion is your best bet. Northland Shooters Supply is the place to go for them.
 

.270

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Can't say about rebarreling a savage but I found 24" to work great in a .270. I have ran a 26" and a 20" as well but the extra two inches didnt do much in extra velocity and I guess I didnt like the stubby look of the 20" barrel. Nothing wrong with the 20" just I like the 24" better.
 
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I put a barrel on a Savage short action that I had as a stand alone action. Went with Criterion cause of reviews, being in stock, and affordable. I built the thing in my living room with little to no fuss. Took me a try or two to get head spacing right but overall it was super easy.

While Savage wouldn’t be my first choice starting out, I got this action for free and I like the rifle quite a bit. It’s really accurate and fun to shoot. If you already have the action and stock, I’d say go for it


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dmm08300

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Criterion and x caliber from bison gunworks, both shoot very very well. Savage is not much to look at beauty wise but they shoot
 
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I've done it plenty (hence the handle) and it's addicting.

Remarkably simple to do too.

And don't overlook Savage factory barrels for a hunting rifle. Every one I've used so far was capable of MOA results if I found the right ammo or the right load, including the "Axis" factory barrels.

Just recently, I bought a Axis youth model 7mm-08 just for the 20" barrel. I pulled the barrel and sold the stock and action. That barrel ended up costing me $80 and it shoots 120 TTSX's into 2" groups at 300 yards all day.

also, get on Savage Shooters forum for used gear. Lots of actions and barrels for sale there.

Have fun!
 

Mike 338

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Not a Savage but did a Rem 783 which is basically the same thing. Fun project. Not to hard although I did need a smith for some other stuff I did to it. I took a 308 and made it a 6.5x47. Shoots great. Pew pew pew! Used a Criterion. Price was right and tools I needed are a one time purchase so I can do it anytime now.
 

Formidilosus

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Oct 22, 2014
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7,992
Considering rebarreling my Savage 110 and would like to hear from those who have done it. Worth it (to you)? Any wisdom to pass on? Any recs on a barrel manufacturer and vendor?

I'm looking to eek out some more accuracy and turn mine into a sub-MOA rifle, which it is not in spite of some tinkering, quality glass and rings, and load development. Mine has the accutrigger and accustock, so I know there's more in this rifle. I plan to keep it at the same caliber or perhaps move to 270 win.


Rebarreled lots of Savages, and it’d be hard to find someone with more rounds on them. Precision was always acceptable. However, Savages are money pits to modify, and you never fix the real issues with them.


$600 for a new barrel, $130-$150 for a new trigger, $300 plus for a stock... and you still have the crappiest corn cob action on the market.

Cut to the chase and get a rifle you don’t need to monkey with.
 
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Rebarreled lots of Savages, and it’d be hard to find someone with more rounds on them. Precision was always acceptable. However, Savages are money pits to modify, and you never fix the real issues with them.


$600 for a new barrel, $130-$150 for a new trigger, $300 plus for a stock... and you still have the crappiest corn cob action on the market.

Cut to the chase and get a rifle you don’t need to monkey with.
I guess my standards are just that much lower than yours. Savage rifles have done every job I've asked of them, but all my rifles are just hunting rifles too.

That said, 1/2-3/4 MOA isn't too shabby for a hunting rifle.
 
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