Zero’d at 200 but at 400 shooting way right.

[huntsman22]

Maybe more info would help: gun make/model, ammo used, # of shots in each ‘group’, range conditions, ring & bases used, etc. etc./QUOTE]

Sounds more like a scope issue, than a rifle/mounting issue to me.....

 

[Jakeweb09]

Alignment of scope to rifle won't be the issue. As the others have said, it's likely canting. Have a scope bubble and ensure that it is correctly aligned with true level. This way you know that each shotnis taken with the scope in a truly level position. Physics would tell you that it actually doesn't matter if the scope and rifle action are in alignment.

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I agree with that to a point, but if I’m dialing a turret and my scope is canted to the right then when I’m zerod at 200 and dial to say 400 it’s moving to the right, correct? My 200 yard impact according to physics wouldn’t move if I or my scope is chanted but at different distances it would

 

[jolemons]

I agree with that to a point, but if I’m dialing a turret and my scope is canted to the right then when I’m zerod at 200 and dial to say 400 it’s moving to the right, correct? My 200 yard impact according to physics wouldn’t move if I or my scope is chanted but at different distances it would

You are correct. Big difference between canting and having scope out of alignment with rifle. Significance of a scope level is so that scope adjustments are accurate; up actually is up, right is right, etc. If scope is canted to the right, an upward adjustment is actually moving in an upward rightward diagonal.

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[Jakeweb09]

More info. It’s a Christensen arms ridgeline in 6.5 creedmore. I’m shooting the Nosler BT 140 grain ammo and have had really good groupings at 100 and 200 with it. Consistently about .5 moa. With Warne maxima rings. And not really any discernible impact shift at 100-200. I did notice about 2 inches shift at 300 and around 9 at 400 in my first attempt at it. I just swapped bases but it looks like I’ll need to get lower rings now because the one piece base is taller then the 2 piece bases. So I grabbed a vice today and a nice wheeler alignment kit. It could definitely just be me so I’ll pay more attention to it.

 

[jolemons]

More info. It’s a Christensen arms ridgeline in 6.5 creedmore. I’m shooting the Nosler BT 140 grain ammo and have had really good groupings at 100 and 200 with it. Consistently about .5 moa. With Warne maxima rings. And not really any discernible impact shift at 100-200. I did notice about 2 inches shift at 300 and around 9 at 400 in my first attempt at it. I just swapped bases but it looks like I’ll need to get lower rings now because the one piece base is taller then the 2 piece bases. So I grabbed a vice today and a nice wheeler alignment kit. It could definitely just be me so I’ll pay more attention to it.

You never mentioned if you have a scope bubble mounted, if not, do it.

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[huntsman22]

not a bubble to be found.....

 

[huntsman22]

But, on the off chance I ever DO feel the need for a bubble....

 

[Reburn]

Many times I have found the top turret to not be level with the reticle.

What I have done is make sure the scope reticle is lined up straight through the centerline of the bore. With the gun in a vise loosely hang a plumb bob at 25 yards. Make sure the reticle is plumb to the plumb bob. Then install a bubble on the scope and tighten down making sure your scope recticle stays plumb to the plumb bob. Then you know that the scope reticle is level to the world.

You can look down your bore and scope and generally see to a very decent precision if the scope is canted to the rifle bore. I cant actually tell when I'm shooting the gun if the scope is level to the world without a bubble.

 

[1845SicEm]

Here's another Option.

Take a piece of tall paper, say 6' or so, you can use butcher paper, and with a straight edge, draw a line up the entire length. Then attach the paper to a wall, using a level to make sure that it's running plumb.

Next, take a laser bore light and be sure to center it in your barrel. Something like this, http://www.appliedresponsesolutions.com/LBS-300C.html so that when you rotate it, the laser doesnt occilate but stays in axis to the bore.

Next line your rifle up so that the laser is on the center line of the line. Get behind your rifle and look through the scope. The vertical reticle should be on the line you drew.

If they all line up, you're good to go. If not, you've got to determine whether your rifle is canted, this you can tell if the center of the reticle isn't on the line but the laser is, or if its canted in the rings. This you can tell if the laser's on the line, the center of you reticle is on the line, but the vertical line of the reticle skew off axis.

Next, without moving the rifle. start dialing a turret. the reticle should track up and down the line, if it doesnt, then you've got a scope issue and its not tracking true up and down.

 

[JakeB2010]

Following

It is so ironic this post comes up as I am experiencing the exact same problem with a christensen mesa. Half min groups at 100 and then 4in right at 500 and 7 in right at 700. groupings are fine but just shifted to the right. Come to find out, my reticle was just barely off from my plum bob. I have remounted my scope more times now than I can count but the final driver for me as the fact that my reticle would be perfectly aligned with the plum bob but the level on the turret housing was off by a bit (turret cap removed). (scope is a NF NXS with one peice NF base). I didnt like that the turret and reticle conflicted so I dropped it off today to my local precision gunsmith to have him take a look at it and mount it up.

As soon as I get it back, I will share what he was able to find wrong with it.

 

[Bryan B]

How many shots are in each of your groups?

 

[Engineer260]

@Jakeweb09 one thing i didn't see mentioned here was parallax adjustment. make sure to take that into account at each new range distance.

with a 10 mph cross wind, you could be seeing 9 inches of drift at 400 yards.

skip all the fancy levels and buy yourself a set of feeler gauges for $6 and place them between the bottom of the scope and the one piece base. your scope is now level with the rifle and thats all that matters.

 

[journeyman713]

I remember reading this thread a while back - have now just addressed the same exact problem, I'll my share findings to help the cause.

First off - X-bolt pro - Talley lightweight rings - Leupold VX5hd, all purchased same day and assembled by the shop gunsmith.

Zero at 200yds, 4-5 inches right at 400yds.

The findings - the front ring and rear ring were not level to each other. Level one of them, and the other is a quarter bubble off. It appears the front base was rotated counterclockwise.

On the X-bolt, the bases are mounted to a radius of the barrel. Not carefully biasing the bases in the bolt hole slop will allow misalignment of parallelism. There is enough bolt hole clearance in the base to allow this to happen.

 

[1845SicEm]

@Jakeweb09 one thing i didn't see mentioned here was parallax adjustment. make sure to take that into account at each new range distance.

with a 10 mph cross wind, you could be seeing 9 inches of drift at 400 yards.

skip all the fancy levels and buy yourself a set of feeler gauges for $6 and place them between the bottom of the scope and the one piece base. your scope is now level with the rifle and thats all that matters.

Parallax is important true. The truing of the base of the optic to the rifle using the gauges is a great idea. That said, a bubble level is important to be sure that you are firing level when you break the shot.