Three Under

Brandon Pattison · Dec 13, 2014

I shoot three under and let's say I cannot consistantly not put excessive pressure on my ring finger. My arrows hit the outer shelf by the fletching. When I shoot split finger my bow shoots much better.

Also. I have no silencers on yet and my bow shows weak spine. I'm using full length 400 spine, 150 grain field points, 30" draw, 52#. Will silencers tame this beast? I had the best paper tune with 340s and 85 grain heads.

This sort of thing is why I go back to my compound.

Hawker · Dec 13, 2014

Maybe let someone else shoot it and see if the results change. Of course make sure they pull it back to 30 in.

justinspicher · Dec 13, 2014

Have you tried full length 500's with the same setup?

Brandon Pattison · Dec 13, 2014

Justin, I think you're going in the wrong direction.

Bareshafts papertune the same.

justinspicher · Dec 13, 2014

How do you figure? 52lbs is a .500 spine isn't it? It is what I am using out of my 55lb Hoyt Gamemaster, shooting three under, and they fly like darts, without paper tuning and just using 125gr tips. If I use the same length arrow in .400, they shoot awful and I miss way right.

If I shoot split finger, I'll spend forever looking for arrows.

You stated that you can't put excessive force on your ring finger, which may be the real issue, not your arrows and the tune on your bow, but I'd have to see you shoot before I made that an actually case for the issue you are having.

Rizzy · Dec 13, 2014

Are you possibly torquing the string when shooting 3 under?

Brandon Pattison · Dec 14, 2014

justinspicher said:
How do you figure? 52lbs is a .500 spine isn't it? It is what I am using out of my 55lb Hoyt Gamemaster, shooting three under, and they fly like darts, without paper tuning and just using 125gr tips. If I use the same length arrow in .400, they shoot awful and I miss way right.

If I shoot split finger, I'll spend forever looking for arrows.

You stated that you can't put excessive force on your ring finger, which may be the real issue, not your arrows and the tune on your bow, but I'd have to see you shoot before I made that an actually case for the issue you are having.

500s are way too weak.

No, I put excessive pressure on my ring finger.

Brandon Pattison · Dec 14, 2014

Rizzy said:
Are you possibly torquing the string when shooting 3 under?

Probably.

SDHNTR · Dec 14, 2014

Keep all three fingers lightly against your cheek as you draw back to anchor. That will keep you from torquing on release, which is what it sounds like you are doing if you have too much ring finger pressure. No way you spine out for a .340 with an 85 gr tip. You are doing something with your form that that stiff of an arrow is compensating for.

SDHNTR · Dec 14, 2014

A .340 cut to 30.5-31" with a 150 should be about right. Or cut your .400 down and you should be about to make them work too. Unlike every compound I've ever owned, my Recurves seem to shoot best spined a touch soft. But I'm a rookie at this too so don't look to me for help. Ryan?

Rizzy · Dec 14, 2014

You can also try canting the bow less.

Another problem I had/still have sometimes, is that I slightly move my head forward to get into my anchor point. This reduces my draw down to 25". I would have never guessed that. I finally had my wife mark the arrow when I drew or under drew more precisely. It sure didn't feel like a loss of 2.5" if anything at all. I try to lock in my back and head before drawing.

SDHNTR · Dec 14, 2014

Rizzy said:
You can also try canting the bow less.

Another problem I had/still have sometimes, is that I slightly move my head forward to get into my anchor point. This reduces my draw down to 25". I would have never guessed that. I finally had my wife mark the arrow when I drew or under drew more precisely. It sure didn't feel like a loss of 2.5" if anything at all. I try to lock in my back and head before drawing.

I do that too. Tuff one to break.

Brandon Pattison · Dec 14, 2014

This is typical from 15 yds.

My bow is very loud. I need better limb pocket pads. Inner tube squishes out.

Rizzy · Dec 14, 2014

nock high

http://www.acsbows.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/tuninglongbowsandrecurves.pdf

duchntr · Dec 14, 2014

Brandon Pattison said:
I shoot three under and let's say I cannot consistantly not put excessive pressure on my ring finger. My arrows hit the outer shelf by the fletching. When I shoot split finger my bow shoots much better.

Also. I have no silencers on yet and my bow shows weak spine. I'm using full length 400 spine, 150 grain field points, 30" draw, 52#. Will silencers tame this beast? I had the best paper tune with 340s and 85 grain heads.

This sort of thing is why I go back to my compound.

Is your bow tillered for 3 under? If not then its made to shot split fingered......Your bow will be loud with no silencers, i recommend cat whiskers and have my bow set up like Ryans here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyGuPxe1BMA&list=UUVG_7J3lkhe4rdmnVaHmWNw&index=6

Also the heavier the arrows the quieter your bow will be... If its still super loud check your brace height it might be off

dangerousD · Dec 15, 2014

Brandon Pattison said:
I shoot three under and let's say I cannot consistantly not put excessive pressure on my ring finger. My arrows hit the outer shelf by the fletching. When I shoot split finger my bow shoots much better.

Also. I have no silencers on yet and my bow shows weak spine. I'm using full length 400 spine, 150 grain field points, 30" draw, 52#. Will silencers tame this beast? I had the best paper tune with 340s and 85 grain heads.

This sort of thing is why I go back to my compound.

Are you really a 30" DL with your trad bow? What I've done is make a few slomo videos from various angles to analyze my form. I'm learning also so I don't have much in the way of an answer for you.

Brandon Pattison · Dec 15, 2014

Pretty sure DL is 30".

More to come in a few days.

Beendare · Dec 15, 2014

When my bare shaft is that close I can usually adjust my brace height up or down to close up my groups. Try adding 1/4" to your braceheight [twist down your string]

Best to bareshaft groups from 10yds and 20 yds to confirm

I shoot an ILF bow 46# with 29.75" draw and my 400's cut 31" are a little weak with 170gr up front....but it depends on the bow. If I shot the same specs from most longbows it would be too stiff. The same arrow in my Toelke Super Static at 55# tunes perfect

Brandon Pattison · Dec 20, 2014

For the heck of it I screwed on a 3' stab. The stab jumped upwards after the shot indicating excessive heel pressure. I noticed split finger arrow flight was better. I tried something. I loosened my bottom limb bolt one full turn (1/8" negative tiller). MUCH better arrow flight.

Brandon Pattison · Dec 20, 2014

Okay. I did some research. Most of you will think my nuts are twisted. I use more ring finger therefore negative tiller works. I have flung many a arrow, cursing my form and my bows. The giant lightbulb is shining brightly as I think that I have figured out my form 'flaw' at least enough to correct it via my bow. Man do I have a huge erec****!

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