That’ll never happen. It’ll follow the existing chamber and you’re removing so little material it’d be pretty hard to F-up especially with an extension through the action. Pretty hard to side load it doing that.
Interesting. Seems like it would be even easier to sideload with the extension. Sorry for the dumb questions, but also how do you keep it from going in too far and cutting a new shoulder and throat?
As said just above it will stop or become readily apparent that you have hit the shoulder.
It’s a custom Defiance Anti on a Mullerworks barrel. It’s a SAAMi chamber as it was built a few years back before this problem was well known.
Then you shouldn't have any issues using an AW 2 reamer.
It’s .532 at the back now.
I reamed 4 chambers with aw2 reamer, granted I pulled the barrels. Just go in a lil bit, 3-4 revolutions with a lightly oiled reamer, with light rear pressure. Pull reamer, blow the chamber out with air hose and blow the reamer off, run a patch through, re-apply light coat of oil to reamer and repeat. You're only removing 0.0015 of each side the chamber wall at the rear, that dimension tapers back to saami spec as it gets to the shoulder. It's pretty quick and easy. I think it took me 90 mins to do 4 barrels, that included a Christensen that didn't have a pinned recoil lug, was tricky getting it perfectly aligned with the factory bedding.
And then polish after?
I took some steel wool on a small wood dowl and roughed up the chamber walls a bit. Don't want an ultra smooth chamber, usually a smith will use some sand paper and put a cross hatch in a new chamber for case walls to grip better.
Right, I’m aware. I wasn’t planning on using too fine a grit and polishing smooth.
Yes, I’m aware. I’ve seen the print before and understand what it does. I just don’t have any experience with a reamer. I don’t even know what I dont know.
Clicker. Swollen brass at the base. Leads to difficult bolt lift that makes a click sound when the bolt handle hits the primary extraction cam.
