? for Roofers...

[Drenalin]

I'm on the commercial construction side, and on the other side of the country, but the latest shingle roof I've had went for right at $300 per square for 170 squares. That's material and labor, using my on site forklift. Tear off and disposal would add some to that. So to me, your price is high.

As noted above, not all metal roofs are created equal. The screw through is trash, and in my opinion not any better than asphalt shingles despite the increased cost. If metal were an option, I wouldn't consider anything other than standing seam and that adds 60% or more to your cost.

With the underside of the decking sprayed, your shingles aren't dissipating heat like they want to and that affects the life of the shingles (and potentially other components). I believe most shingle manufacturers reduce their warranty duration in this application - you probably did pretty well to get 16 years out of your current shingles.

 

[Laelkhunter]

We replaced the roof on our home after Ida (Aug 2021), and paid right at what your estimate is for a similar sized roof. We did use a local well known company to avoid the storm chasers that won't be around if a problem arises later.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

Metal roofing screws do in fact back out. But, what I’ve found is most roofers don’t screw it on 2 feet centers as advised by the manufacturer. If done so, they don’t back out bad or at all. The washers have been greatly improved. They’ll last a long time. Longer than shingles.


Standing seam makes a great roof. Much better than panel roofing. However, it’s cost prohibitive in comparison.


Panel metal roofing is a fine choice. And, the higher cost is offset enough in labor savings that it would be my choice. Especially with the spray insulation.

Good luck OP. But, know if you reshuffle that roof as is, you’ll be replacing them again in about 15 years.

 

[Jon Boy]

Good questions guys....the ice dam material is for perimeter only--and 6' up from bottom rafters. The rest is the newer non-felt underpayment. No attic here, just lofted ceiling with 9 1/2 "I"s....sprayed with Icynene expanding foam insulation.

No mold, no issues, very clean setup. Overall very easy roof except for pitch.
Shingle selected is IKO dynasty dimensional in evergreen.

*Front overhang will not be shingled, I added that after initial build and roofing is in great shape.

Yah ill come do that roof for 16k cant knock your roofer though as it seems like everyone is getting what they want these days. Another thing I didn't consider is if the lumber yard shows up with a boom truck or not to stock the shingles. A lot of small town yards dont have one and hand stocking bundles is probably the hardest part of the entire process.

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[Pony Soldier]

I appreciate this question a lot. When I bought my house in 88 it had a shake roof. We put plywood over that and covered that with steel. The roof is still good but the paint is gone on the south side. With the changes in underlayment we are planning to pull the steel, under lay the entire roof and put down new steel.

The roof is steep for about 8 ft and then flattens to about half the pitch for about 30 ft. We tend to have an ice buidup at the slope transition. I figured the underlayment would elimonate the leakage I have encountered at that point.

 

[Hill Difficulty]

I appreciate this question a lot.

I agree - this is a great topic, great question, some great responses!

There can be some real shopper vulnerability nowadays with bigger spend home projects. Lots of business to go around where the better outfits to are too far out and the fringe outfits that would not otherwise be in business are hacking along/filling the vacuum. Supply chain gaps don't help.

For the OP, who seems to have a solid antenna on reading people... Hoping all of this works out ideal for you!

 

[WV Mountaineer]

I appreciate this question a lot. When I bought my house in 88 it had a shake roof. We put plywood over that and covered that with steel. The roof is still good but the paint is gone on the south side. With the changes in underlayment we are planning to pull the steel, under lay the entire roof and put down new steel.

The roof is steep for about 8 ft and then flattens to about half the pitch for about 30 ft. We tend to have an ice buidup at the slope transition. I figured the underlayment would elimonate the leakage I have encountered at that point.

You can buy transition metal for those type areas. Standard is 24” wide, seamed in the middle. Run it under the top section and down over the bottom metal. Put closure strips on the top metal section as well.


For the application you are describing, the ice guard would be better than underlayment at the roof transition. It’s sticky and will require no nails or staples unlike underlayment. Much better results if melting water pushing back underneath the top section were to get by the closure strip and transition metal. If it has any pitch at all, it shouldn’t though.

 

[grfox92]

We just did a 40x50 shophouse with a 70x50 shop portion and 50 year shingles were 16k, metal roof was 26k. There was mo tear off involved as its new construction. Sounds a little high to me, but I just build them, I don't roof them.

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[Rich M]

Metal roofing screws do in fact back out. But, what I’ve found is most roofers don’t screw it on 2 feet centers as advised by the manufacturer. If done so, they don’t back out bad or at all. The washers have been greatly improved. They’ll last a long time. Longer than shingles.


Standing seam makes a great roof. Much better than panel roofing. However, it’s cost prohibitive in comparison.


Panel metal roofing is a fine choice. And, the higher cost is offset enough in labor savings that it would be my choice. Especially with the spray insulation.

Good luck OP. But, know if you reshuffle that roof as is, you’ll be replacing them again in about 15 years.

In FL, code for my roof was 9 inch centers. I have. 1-1/2 inch screw every 9 inches. Keeps the roof on during the hurricanes. Thinking sbout replacing the screws when they start to rust.

I dont get freezes and ice, so thats probably why the roof is fine after 17 years when i would be putting the next set of asphalt shingles on.

Kinda pisses me off. I do the right thing, do the metal lifetime roof and insurance companies are paying for the folks who wont maintain their houses to get new roofs.

 

[Team4LongGun]

No way I’d do shingles-ever again. Brother is a roofing contractor, neighbor a 45 year master carpenter-they both agree. This is for MT.
OP-it’s been said, and I agree, you have ventilation issues with the foam.

 

[Gutshot007]

Do "hidden fasteners" and dont worry about rubber washers , screw holes or loosening

 

[WV Mountaineer]

In FL, code for my roof was 9 inch centers. I have. 1-1/2 inch screw every 9 inches. Keeps the roof on during the hurricanes. Thinking sbout replacing the screws when they start to rust.

I dont get freezes and ice, so thats probably why the roof is fine after 17 years when i would be putting the next set of asphalt shingles on.

Kinda pisses me off. I do the right thing, do the metal lifetime roof and insurance companies are paying for the folks who wont maintain their houses to get new roofs.

In WV, it’s 24. I can see the need for closer spacing in hurricane areas.

As far as insurance, unfortunately they penalize a responsible homeowner a lot of times. But, in these parts, they typically only cover the portion of the roof that’s leaking. Regardless of how well the homeowners has unkept his property. And, the insurance adjusters must think contractors don’t want to live a meaningful life. Because they are always cheaper than the true cost. Leaving the insured to pay out of pocket EVERYTIME. It’s the biggest racket in America in my opinion.

 

[Grousehntr]

good price from a fellow roofing contractor. just be sure to get the whole system or the manufacturer wont go good on the warranty if you need it. i recommend Certainteed and use Grace Select Ice/Water barrier. Galvanized steel flashings everywhere needed. Ridge vent if possible.

 

[Broomd]

No way I’d do shingles-ever again. Brother is a roofing contractor, neighbor a 45 year master carpenter-they both agree. This is for MT.
OP-it’s been said, and I agree, you have ventilation issues with the foam.

Nah, the shingles are losing grit due to weather, that's it plain and simple. Ironically the north side of the house is fine, it doesn't receive the wind and weather directly.
We have no leaks, just composite that is granule-challenged, that's it.
Foam insulation has nothing to do with anything here.

Don't want metal, guys. This house gets a ton of snow and I don't want it sliding onto the deck, I don't want the snow stops on the roof either.
The shingle melts timely even in the Winter sun, runs down into the French drain. The setup is ideal.

 

[aaronoto]

I’d stay away from IKO if I were you. My last roof was IKO Cambridge and I was resealing tar strips every fall about 10 years into the roof, and not the occasional shingle, a ton of them every year. The Dynasty line is a step up though. I went Pabco on the new roof, too early to say how it’ll hold up.

 

[Rich M]

In WV, it’s 24. I can see the need for closer spacing in hurricane areas.

As far as insurance, unfortunately they penalize a responsible homeowner a lot of times. But, in these parts, they typically only cover the portion of the roof that’s leaking. Regardless of how well the homeowners has unkept his property. And, the insurance adjusters must think contractors don’t want to live a meaningful life. Because they are always cheaper than the true cost. Leaving the insured to pay out of pocket EVERYTIME. It’s the biggest racket in America in my opinion.

We get guys chasing hail storms down here - couple dents in the asphalt shingles and suddenly the roof "needs" to be replaced. This is part of why we have insurance issues down here. It is a racket.

Lotsa scams too - my neighbor got took. He likes to wheel & deal, so tried to wheel & deal with a scammer - insurance gave neighbor a portion of funds $7,500 and he gave it to a dude who walked up to his door to sell him a new roof. LoL! The house was built early 90s, roof leaks and neighbor wants insurance company to keep going and fix it for him. I told him to get some 3 tabs and get hopping before he lets his house get ruined. Perfect example of not taking care of your own house.

IMO, a roof is a known wear item that gets replaced every 15-20 years, that's part of the cost of owning a home. Same as tires and brakes on a car - home owner should be responsible for replacing the roof. Or the insurance companies should have a diff rate for folks who want them to pay for roof replacements.

 

[DanimalW]

First, there isn’t a shingle manufacturer that hasn’t had issues in the past 25 years. Second, all of their warranties suck and will likely cover about 50% of the cost of a dumpster.

Roughly 32 SQ of IKO Dynasty, underlayment, ice/water at eaves, nails, and ridge vent cost about $3100 for me 11 months ago. So now you have a pretty good idea what your material costs are. My advice would be to get a couple more quotes. This keeps contractors honest, and it makes you feel better. Seeing what one quote includes might raise questions that need to be asked about another.

Some of your premature failure on the south side of the house is probably due to them baking in the sun combined with no attic ventilation. They do make some lighter brown colored shingles with solar reflective granules that might hold up better than a standard green that’s going to heat up more. Something to consider anyway.

I am a fan of steel roofs, but the cost of the panels alone for a decent concealed fastener panel in 24 ga or .040 are going to cost as much as the installed cost of the shingles. Not everyone can afford that (myself included).

 

[Ishisube]

We pulled shingles off our house and put steel on about 5 years ago . The fasteners are hidden . It went on pretty quck . I dont think i would put another shingle on a house again . In northern mn lots of weather and snow . The whole 20, 30 year shingle thing imo is crock .

Put a metal roof on a log cabin we built last year and they're pretty popular with a lot of people in Alaska. Hidden fastener type lock together and no holes showing.

 

[Gutshot007]

Nah, the shingles are losing grit due to weather, that's it plain and simple. Ironically the north side of the house is fine, it doesn't receive the wind and weather directly.
We have no leaks, just composite that is granule-challenged, that's it.
Foam insulation has nothing to do with anything here.

Don't want metal, guys. This house gets a ton of snow and I don't want it sliding onto the deck, I don't want the snow stops on the roof either.
The shingle melts timely even in the Winter sun, runs down into the French drain. The setup is ideal.

Broomd, you are correct on the snow sliding off . When we had shingles i would have to climb up and shovel the roof off a number of times during the winter . I opted for no snow stops and it slides off on its own . I avoided climbing up to shovel ,but now have to clean off infront of garage and deck (sometimes a pain). Better on the ground than on a snowy icy roof . Good luck

 

[Broomd]

Quick update here...
After a tip here at the RS, I opted to contact Jim Carr roofing out of CDA. That's the same WKR Jim Carr who writes some great stuff right here at the 'slide.

Jim gave me a solid quote that was *substantially* cheaper than the other bids I'd received. Two days later his crew arrived at 8am, by 2:45 the old roof was off, the new roof was on.
The place was clean, garbage all hauled off with the crew and we were ready to go.

It's been a few weeks, but initial impressions are perfecto. We plan on having Jim's interior painting crew roll some color for us this Summer.